Not at all....I just washed the part in hot water and dawn...scuffed it with a green scotchbrite....washed it again....then wiped it down with laquer thinner...taped up the machined flange surface with high temp fiberlgass tape and plugged critical holes. Bought some high temp silicone plugs with the kit and stuck those in three places from the back side to act as a stand while it cured.....First time it came out too thin....could see base metal in the sunlight...so we hit it again. Only has to cure for about 20 minutes once it initially flows out...which was about 7 minutes. Planning on doing the lifter blocks next.
Looks pretty good for your first try. Keep in mind that prepwork is the key to success. With the lifter blocks make sure they are completely clean of any oily residue. Wipe them down with acetone after they have been stripped and preheat the part to outgas any oils that may be trapped within the part.
It looks like eastwood's almost chrome...if it is you NEED to put a topcoat of clear on it for any kind of durability :p
I'm impressed with the final look, but wonder about the durability.
I'd be interested in powder coating an old unusable part and putting it through the test ie: beat it up a bit, toss it around and see just how well it holds up against factory applied powder.
I'm impressed with the final look, but wonder about the durability. I'd be interested in powder coating an old unusable part and putting it through the test ie: beat it up a bit, toss it around and see just how well it holds up against factory applied powder.
It will hold up the same compared to the factory powder as long as the powder has been prepped and cured correctly. I am fairly sure Harley uses HB Fuller powders on their bikes and they are one of the best in the business.
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