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Old 11-07-2012, 11:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
IronButt
 
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Sanding and repainting 1/4 fairing

Found a really nice, used, Arlen Ness 1/4 fairing on fleabay but it is painted red. It is the ABS plastic. Just want to figure out how to carefully sand it back down to the plastic, and maybe some paint options. I want it to look good, and not have to spend too much on it.

I might even consider getting it painted by a shop, but if there is a rattle can method, I am confident in my spraying technique.

Thanks
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1985 FXRS: Dyna 2000 ICM, Twin Tec II Single Fire, Mikuni HSR 42mm carb, S&S intake, Progressive 11.5" rear springs, progressive front sprigs, SPF Lightningheader exhaust and bars, rebuilt front forks with brace (lowered back to 25.5"), Arlen Ness fairing, all new electrical, shyt-ton of powder coating etc. etc.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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kustom_flames is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Why sand it down to plastic? Is it lifting? Assuming it was prepped properly - scuffed, rubbed down with iso alchohol, and then an adhesion promoter applied to it, then you have a perfect substrate to work with already. Just scuff the clear with fine steel wool or a grey scuff pad. Prime, reshoot and go...

If it is lifting on you, then DA it down carefully, prep like I said above and then paint it. You can use a chemical stripper...but I hate how messy those are and they turn the paint into a soupy gooey mess....not to mention it may compromise the plastic in its raw state...
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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kustom_flames is reading this now saying WTF is this?
One more thing...if you can get by with just lightly scuffing it....do your best NOT to break thru the clear...all you need to do is get it dull for it to be ready for primer....I am assuming it is base/clear, but it could even be a single stage....if you start scuffing and the dust is red then you have a single stage...no big deal, just go easy with the scuffing...

Ok one MORE thing - if you are using rattle cans - do not use lacquer! Urethane enamels can go over lacquer, but not vice versa. I'm assuming you may not know what type of paint is on there, so better to avoid anything lacquer based...you don't want to have any reactions with the paints...
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I should have mentioned it looks to be rattle canned and has a couple runs and what not. Doesn't seem to have a clear coat or anything.
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1985 FXRS: Dyna 2000 ICM, Twin Tec II Single Fire, Mikuni HSR 42mm carb, S&S intake, Progressive 11.5" rear springs, progressive front sprigs, SPF Lightningheader exhaust and bars, rebuilt front forks with brace (lowered back to 25.5"), Arlen Ness fairing, all new electrical, shyt-ton of powder coating etc. etc.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Just an old body shop trick I learned. If its ABS plastic you can soak it in brake fluid over night. The paint will lift right off, especially old rattle can jobs.

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Old 01-11-2013, 09:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Another point; if there are runs in it now you have to assume the last job was not prepared properly and may eventually fail under whatever you apply over it. To be safe it would need to be DA'd down to the OEM substrate and the layered with epoxy primer surfacer etc. and then come back with the new finish. The only truly safe repaint is done either over OEM finishes or a stripped substrate.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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you didn't mention what tools you had to work with , da? aircompressor?, paint gun? if you want to do this on the cheap; a flexible hand sanding pad and wet dry sandpaper should bust the finish off pretty quickly without damaging the plastic. Sem makes a pretty complete line of products for prep and primer of plastics in rattle cans. I think some auto paint stores still make custom colors in spray cans. not sure what you have in your area, if not you can order it online.
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