Lab Metal body filler? : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

jtmurph00 · 10-04-2009, 08:51 PM

So, Im planning on having my new gas tank powder coated but it needs some body work done around the welds for the tank extensions. The powder coating place recomended using High Temp Lab Metal so it will hold up in the coating oven. The stuff sounds like a mix between bondo and jb weld. Anybody ever use it? Or how much should I need, its just a small area where the extension was welded on to the tank? This stuff is pricey, the smallest container is 14 oz.

kustom_flames · 10-05-2009, 09:37 AM

I have not used it personally, but I think you will find that the amt of filler and time to put in to make it smooth will be quite alot. I'm assuming you have a tank that has weldon extensions with a bead of about 1/8"-1/4" all the way around. Takes quite a bit of work to smooth out one of those, and there are probably other areas of that tank thay might need some filler. I'm working on one now, and boy is the tank a mess! Bodywork to be done on the sides, top, and to smooth out the weld.

On another note, have you had your tank pressure tested? A good idea if you have not done it already...

nightrob · 10-05-2009, 09:44 AM

Is this the same thing as Aluminox? If it is, Pat is correct. It is hard to work with. It works very well, but in an aesthetic application it might be a little much.

jtmurph00 · 10-06-2009, 01:55 AM

Thanks for the replies.
Tank is exactly as you described Kustom. I dont have it yet, should be here Thurs. and I definately plan on pressure testing it first.
I havent bought the stuff yet, but it is what the powder coater recomended. He said he's always had good luck with it. For the amount of work this stuff requires should I scrap the powder coating and just go with bondo and paint?

kustom_flames · 10-11-2009, 07:45 PM

Hey man! One other suggestion about that tank is you might want to have it grinded down slightlybefore pressure test, otherwise the bodywork will be even more - you'll need much more mudd to build it up and make those areas flat.

Here are some pics to see just how much work is involved...

jtmurph00 · 10-11-2009, 11:40 PM

Damn, thats alotta filler. Maybe I'll just do it in wrinkle black like the engine, that should make a little less sanding. J/K.

On a related note, how much do you recomend testing the tank too?

Ahar · 10-12-2009, 10:48 AM

I have used Lab Metal under powdercoat. It works about like a harder bondo, looks like powdered aluminum in a paste. Be careful when applying to get all bubbles out of mixture or you will need to skim coat second layer after sanding first. You should have no problems doing what you need to do.
good luck

kustom_flames · 10-12-2009, 11:08 AM

Yeah tons of filler right! I have a body guy that has been doing it for 27 years, and beleive me he uses only the minimal amt too. I have seen some tanks where there was no metal left showing and the entire thing was mudded 1/4"+.

My guy that does the pressure tests puts in about 20PSI. You don't need any more than that...

painter jim · 10-12-2009, 03:49 PM

pat is right on. i have done the bodywork on a bunch of these and it does take alot of filler. enough filler where i usually do the inital bulk filling with fiberglass reinforced stuff then move onto regular filler. every tank i have ever done looks just like pat's pictures there. i have not used labmetal but i have heard of it and i'm sure it works fine but in your particular situation here i would skip the powdercoat and have it painted. it will look better anyway.

kustom_flames · 10-12-2009, 05:29 PM

Sucks to be us right Jim?!

I posted those just to show how much work is done 'behind the scenes' sometimes...

And if you have to do as much bodywork w/ a filler that could potentially be more difficult to sand than your avg bodyfiller...you could be in for weeks of work...

romannumal · 10-16-2009, 01:51 PM

i powder coated my tank and did not us the filler want the rat bike look with at hot rod flat black looks great. the only problem is when gas spills on it leaves mark. wish i would of clear coated it after i powder coated it. it sure is tuff but gas will kill it and leave a mark. There are 3 kinds of powder coats some are good for chem, but not good in sunlight, just something to think about.

Nightking · 10-25-2009, 03:51 PM

I say if you have to clear over powder coat to make it fuel resistant, then why not just paint it . The thing is this. If it is a new fuel tank, then it has to be pressure tested. Then , it has to be lined . Most use Red Kote. That is what I use. And I'm not sure that stuff will hold up to the oven temps at around 400* plus. This means you will have to have it pressur etested, then powder coated, then lined after that. And just pray that they don't spill any of the Red Kote on the powder coat. In the long run I believe you are just better off having it painted black with 5 coats of clear , and let it set for about 3 weeks before installing and fueling it. You just have to figure the costs involved. Powder coating parts is good because of the wear factor. Bike tins is a whole other story.

Ahar · 10-25-2009, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nightking

I say if you have to clear over powder coat to make it fuel resistant, then why not just paint it . The thing is this. If it is a new fuel tank, then it has to be pressure tested. Then , it has to be lined . Most use Red Kote. That is what I use. And I'm not sure that stuff will hold up to the oven temps at around 400* plus. This means you will have to have it pressur etested, then powder coated, then lined after that. And just pray that they don't spill any of the Red Kote on the powder coat. In the long run I believe you are just better off having it painted black with 5 coats of clear , and let it set for about 3 weeks before installing and fueling it. You just have to figure the costs involved. Powder coating parts is good because of the wear factor. Bike tins is a whole other story.

excellent point, and the savings on Lab Metal alone might pay for the paint.