Painting a couple of helmets

[DBotkin]

I know it's not sheet metal... but wouldn't it count as "body" work? Plus this will apply to the fairing if I ever get the urge to paint that too.

We've got a pair of helmets that are currently a pearl white finish. Wife dropped hers on the concrete and put some chips in it, and I made the mistake of leaving mine on the newly installed helmet lock while I moved the bike... and heard that sickening sound as I dragged it on the asphalt. Ugh. Scrapes.

So this winter, here's my plan. Completely disassemble the helmets. Clean, skim coat the scrapes on the top of mine and any nicks with some good quality filler (maybe Duraglass). Sand with 400 grit, clean again.

I have some Omni AU MBC white base/MC161 clear left over from a repair job on my son's car. I'm thinking the white base coat, followed by a couple coats of clear with dry pearl added (either HOK or from Paint With Pearl), or maybe even HOK Abalone flakes. Then clear coat. If I'm feeling really adventurous, I'm thinking maybe a "ghost" bar & shield shot with a template and air brush using a different shade of flake or pearl, after the first pearl/flake and before the final clear.

I figure Omni AU is fine for this because they're HELMETS, it's not like they have to look good in 20 years. I do have some questions, though, since I'm not a professional...

Should it be safe to shoot the white base over the skim coat of filler used to fix my parking lot scrape, or do I really need to get more extensive prep? Like sand and prime? I want it to look good, but don't want to make it an all-winter project.

These are HJC Sy-Max II helmets. The chin bar is ABS. Do I need to use some flex additive? Is there a down side to adding fisheye eliminator as well?

I've got a halfway decent gravity feed gun, and have shot the Omni AU before with good results. I haven't done a lot of paint, but what I have done has turned out well enough that I think I can manage a couple of helmets.

[kustom_flames]

You will most definitely want to prime over that filler. Careful not too mix it too hot or you could have bleaching in a a few weeks. You can buy some JP202, which is one of my favorite primers out there.

Believe it or not, helmets can be pretty tricky b/c they are small, so be mindful of sags. You might try a white base w/ a white pearl mid coat, then some ice white pearl flake mixed into your clear. You could also go with a dry flake that has a tint to it like a blue or violet.

You shouldn't need to a flex additive and do NOT add fisheye eliminator to the clear, unless you are getting fisheyes. Do you regularly use WD40 or any product with silicones where you will be spraying? If so, then that will remain in the air for up to 6 months. Basically once you start using fisheye eliminator, you will always need it!

Lastly, if you intend to apply and HD logos, or anything where you will need paint mask (vinyl) be sure you have a couple coats of clear down first. Then you will wetsand with 600, lay your stencil down, airbrush, remove, degrease, and then reclear. If you omit this step you run a good chance of removing paint with the tape and ruining your base.

Ok, last, lastly - are you sure you even need to use filler on those helmets? You may be able to work it out with just sanding...

[facn8me]

I know this isn't related to paint but you do know your going to spend money on a "compromised" helmet? A helmet hitting hardenough to chip, may not protect a head in a crash.

[DBotkin]

Yeah, I knew that was coming. I seriously doubt that a fall of less than 2', a bounce off the boot toe and a skitter across the pavement is going to seriously compromise the integrity of the helmet. As a reasonably intelligent adult with some degree of mechanical knowledge, I'm pretty sure I'm capable of thoroughly inspecting the inner and outer components and determining if there is any damage other than cosmetic. I understand the desire of the helmet manufacturers' corporate counsel to avoid any liability by claiming that virtually any helmet that's been out of the box is no longer safe, but if they were really that delicate they wouldn't be of much use anyway.

But thanks for your concern.

[DBotkin]

Originally Posted by kustom_flames

You will most definitely want to prime over that filler. ... You can buy some JP202, which is one of my favorite primers out there.

I just hate buying a bunch of expensive primer to cover about 2 square inches of scrape, y'know? Would it be safe to use good quality rattle-can automotive primer for this?

Ok, last, lastly - are you sure you even need to use filler on those helmets? You may be able to work it out with just sanding...

I'm going to try that first, of course, and it may only need some glaze. I need to get a good detailed look at the scrape, which I have been avoiding because it's still riding season... and I'm afraid if I start looking too closely I'll start working on it and be helmet-less for a while. With the quick inspection I did I'm not sure if it's down to the fiberglass or just into the primer. Who the hell uses black primer under white paint, anyway? Jeez.

[kustom_flames]

Buy a good rattle can primer. SEM makes both a highbuild and an etching primer. Be about $15/can. You could also try another cheaper brand too...but I would certainly primer over spotting putty, glaze, filler, anything that you have to mix that hardner into...

That black primer might be a sealer. HD uses a black sealer on all their tins no matter what the topcoat color...(sorry just a bit of trivia I guess... )

[Mr Hankie]

Years ago(about 25)I used flat black Rustolium on a half helmet in a pinch with plans to do it over again later. Never had to . It was plenty good enough and super easy to touch up if ever dropped again. I guess they call it Black Denim now.......go figure.

[hbmc]

you can always put a sticker on it... like "I wear this under protest"

[DBotkin]

Guys, thanks for the advice. I'll probably do them in a couple of weeks, as soon as I line up all the supplies and a place to shoot the paint.

After prep I'm going to go with Omni AU white base, then Omni AU clear with gold pearl from Paint With Pearls. In the front I'll mask off and shoot a "ghost" bar & shield with some different pearl, probably either black gunmetal or shimmer orange copper. Then a couple coats of clear to finish up and they should look pretty good.

I'm trying hard to resist the temptation to get fancier. We really loved the Stealth Flame helmets Harley has, but you can't put intercoms in them (and they're outrageously overpriced as well).

I'll post pics of the carnage - er, I mean finished product. Oh - and I don't wear the helmet under protest. A short ride without a lid is fun, but the wind & noise really get to me after a while at highway speeds. Plus, this way we're legal wherever we go.

UPDATE... talked to a buddy who says he'll loan me his Paasche air brush setup, so I can do the bar & shield easier and mix up a little to put our names on the back. I'll use the same pearl for that as the bar & shield, but a lot heavier concentration so it's almost solid color.

[kustom_flames]

Sounds like a plan - good luck with it!

[DBotkin]

I'm buying the pearl powder and masks for the airbrushing, and getting ready to start the process. How much paint would you estimate I'll need for two modular helmets? I'll have to shoot both shells, chin bars and a couple of little vent cover pieces. I figure 2 coats of white, then 4 of clear (2 with pearl, 2 without). I have no clue how much paint that's going to take. I think I have about a pint of clear and half as much white here, plus plenty of reducer. I can get more locally, have to pick up more hardener anyway.

[kustom_flames]

You won't need much to paint a couple of lids. If you can buy 1/2 pints of each that would be more than enough. Most likely will be a 1:1 ration so you will have 16 ounces of sprayable prioduct. You'll need 2-3 coats of the white. Now if you have 1/2 pint of white already, you should be all set...