Effective product of stripping H/D paint?

[Nickrc3]

I recently purchased a used set of fenders and gas tank from a 2000' Fatboy so I may apply a custom paint then fit to my 04' Fatboy.

My questrion regards stripping the original paint from the sheetmetal. I'm using Home Depot's best paint remover, a Kleen-Strip product ,and it's barely doing anything. Even beyond the clear coat, it's taking 6-8 applications of this product and yet, still not completely stripped. Even tried heat from a propane touch!
Are the boat/marine paint stripping products more effective? Really donot wish to sand blast. I'm actually wondering if I should simply sand the existing finish to provide the tooth, then seal, prime, basecoat and clear. Why completely strip?

Please advise.

Thanks guys.
NICK

[Faast Ed]

I hope you get a good responce, cuz I been down your street! LOL

Best of the ace hardware/ home depot stuff, took me endless hours with steel wool and plastic gloves. No easy way, that I could find. The aftermarket paint that was on top of the OEM paint about fell off by itself. But the OEM paint I found to be bullet proof.

Do you have a buddy with a sand blaster?

Why completely strip?

While I see the motivation to stop short, don't do it. If you want perfection, keep going til you're done. You will not regret it.

Get cha a nice comfy chair in the garage, a few beers, perhaps a little TV. You'll get there eventually.







/

[kustom_flames]

Yeah, don't strip it all off! Knock off the decals to bare metal and feather the edges in. HD uses some of the best primers, so you already have a very suitable substrate to work with. Going over one paint job will not be a problem as long as it is factory.

Chemical strippers will make a very gooey mess - I prefer a good high speed DA with 80 grit anyday....

[OZNOG]

But if you need to strip paint-

Here's the stuff, BUT BE CAREFUL and follow precautions!

http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=33&prodid=136

Aircraft Remover by Klean Strip

This will make most paints AND body fillers melt like a Halloween
nightmare. READ: Do not get on anything you value, like skin,eyes,plastics etc.


HD paint, especially on the frames sure is tough as nails, but if you already have "a mess" from other strippers; try a couple round of this stuff. Then clean/feather/prime.

Use outdoors, with gloves, and eye protection. Good Luck!

[uid100]

Originally Posted by Nickrc3

...

My questrion regards stripping the original paint from the sheetmetal. .....

Asphalt.

But it's not advised and hard to control.

[OZNOG]

Originally Posted by uid100

Asphalt.

But it's not advised and hard to control.

Neither is sandblasting or a PROPANE TORCH!






-and with my apologies to Springer;

"what do I know, I ride a flat black bob"

[Nickrc3]

oKustom Flames,
the existing clearcoats are applied so thick decals and tape pinstriping are below the top surface. So, simply provide some tooth using 80-120 grit and reprime with a epoxy (catalyst) product? Will a sealing product be necessary before he primer? I have used both PPG and Matrix paints in the past with spraying military schemes on large-scale radio-controlled model airplanes.

Yeah, not stripping the tins is definitely in my best interest. Any other tips you may provide would be greatly appreciated.

NICK

[kustom_flames]

Yeah knock down the decals with 80 or 120. You'll want to feather those edges down with 220 and 320 grits. You do not need a sealer. PPG shopline primer JP-202 is what I use and it lays down flatter than any other primer I've sprayed.

Make sure you do use a high build primer too. You can use an etching primer first on the bare metal part, but not necessary if your other primer is suitable for bare metal.