Timing's Everything

[Tony S]

Sac Ultra Man...I might as well elaborate on the history of my '82 Shovel FXE, as you seem to be my staunch support here on the Forum. I bought my Bike about a year & 1/2 ago. It had 1,137 ORIGINAL miles on it...BONE STOCK. It had been stored in a Barn since 1985. The dude who owned it took two road trips on it with his wife and basically stuck it in his barn for 25 years....then came me!
Anyway, I've tinkered here & there with it I put an FLH Frontend on it with a 21" wheel & new tire, Single Caliper front brake, Corbin Flame-Stitch Seat, Exhaust & Carb, Accel 8mm Yellow-Jacket spark plug wires, Rear Sprocket & Chain & ALOT of Elbow Grease getting the oxidized aluminun to pop. Hell,it still has the ORIGINAL Rear Tire on it (Goodyear MT-90)
Anyway, I'm nearing 6,500 miles. The Bike has NEVER been timed. It's starting to ping...pretty bad. Especially today when it was hot out, about 3:00pm. Sounds like it can use a valve adjustment too...some tickin' goin' on there, especially in the front cylinder.
Now... I have a Clymer Harley Repair Manual...And you! I'm not afraid to turn a wrench on it but maybe there are some pre-cautions I should know about before I attempt this feat.
Think you can walk me through the timing & valve adjustment (maybe some trade secret you have... not mentioned in the repair Manuals)
Thanks in advance Bro...Tony

[Alte314]

Tony,
Not sure if you want replies from someone else, but I can help you with the timing. First off, you should have hydraulic lifters if the bike is totally stock as you say. (you didn't mention the year though), this means no adjustment is needed. If you have persistent ticking, you probably have a lifter not pumping up and maybe needs to be replaced. Have you cleaned your tappet screen? A clogged screen can prevent proper oil pressure in the lifters, especially towards the front which is the farthest from the screen.

On to the timing. Take out the timing plug (left side of engine, just above primary case, it's a large hex. You don't really need the clear plug like the manual says, just make sure that when you first start it you're not standing in front of the hole because it will spit but then calm down. Open the right side timing cover and expose the plate. Hook up your timing light and set it off to the side, make sure the light is on the front cylinder plug wire. If the thing runs decent at all, the timing is close to begin with. Start the bike, then aim the timing light into the hole and you should see the spinning crankshaft. Remember how the book said to go to 2000 rpm? It's there and above where you will see the timing mark. So don't worry so much about the actual rpm as LONG AS you are ABOVE 2000, make sense? Above 2000 you get maximum advance, which is what we want. At this point you should see the timing mark, if you have been holding the timing light on it, it will come into view. You need this mark centered in the hole. If it's too far toward the front of the bike, youre timing is retarded, move the plate clockwise to advance. If the mark is too far back, the timing is too advanced, move the plate counter-clockwise. Pinging is a classic sign of too far advanced timing, that's what I would expect to see. If you don't see the mark at all, play with the plate until it comes into view. There is a notched V which is usually around the 7 oclock position which you can see a little ridge, this is close if you need a starting point. I didn't go over points, but I don't know if you have points or not, what year is your bike? Anyway, that's the timing.

[Tony S]

First of all, I would like to thank you for the timing tip. The bike is an '82 FXE. Next question: Do I hook the timing light up like on a car...to the No.1 plug wire & the other to the battery or is there a special timing light for a Harley? (Don't laugh fellas...I've heard dumber questions on VTF)
Thanks again,Tony

[newultraclassic]

Originally Posted by Alte314

Tony,
Not sure if you want replies from someone else, but I can help you with the timing. First off, you should have hydraulic lifters if the bike is totally stock as you say. (you didn't mention the year though), this means no adjustment is needed. If you have persistent ticking, you probably have a lifter not pumping up and maybe needs to be replaced. Have you cleaned your tappet screen? A clogged screen can prevent proper oil pressure in the lifters, especially towards the front which is the farthest from the screen.

On to the timing. Take out the timing plug (left side of engine, just above primary case, it's a large hex. You don't really need the clear plug like the manual says, just make sure that when you first start it you're not standing in front of the hole because it will spit but then calm down. Open the right side timing cover and expose the plate. Hook up your timing light and set it off to the side, make sure the light is on the front cylinder plug wire. If the thing runs decent at all, the timing is close to begin with. Start the bike, then aim the timing light into the hole and you should see the spinning crankshaft. Remember how the book said to go to 2000 rpm? It's there and above where you will see the timing mark. So don't worry so much about the actual rpm as LONG AS you are ABOVE 2000, make sense? Above 2000 you get maximum advance, which is what we want. At this point you should see the timing mark, if you have been holding the timing light on it, it will come into view. You need this mark centered in the hole. If it's too far toward the front of the bike, youre timing is retarded, move the plate clockwise to advance. If the mark is too far back, the timing is too advanced, move the plate counter-clockwise. Pinging is a classic sign of too far advanced timing, that's what I would expect to see. If you don't see the mark at all, play with the plate until it comes into view. There is a notched V which is usually around the 7 oclock position which you can see a little ridge, this is close if you need a starting point. I didn't go over points, but I don't know if you have points or not, what year is your bike? Anyway, that's the timing.

The above information is exactly correct as to timing and so forth. The 1982 Shovelheads were fitted with electronic ignition, no points or weights but with a fairly rudimentary electronic setup. Mine is an '82 FXS and originally had electronic. I seriously doubt that the timing is off or that it went off time while you were riding it though. More likely, your ignition module has started its trip to the happy hunting ground. I went through two of those and then changed to points and advance weights so as to get some rest from changing them out. They were expensive, too.

You will probably eventually need to get a modern ignition, perhaps single fire like I have. I have a Spyke with a matching coil but, as I 've said before, there are a lot of good ones on the market.

Best thing you can do now, before doing anything else, would be to simply try retarding the spark. Without opening the timing plug, rotate the timing plate CCW a little, take it for a ride and see if the pinging is alleviated. If not, then you have a bad module. Sorry, but that year had a notoriously bad ignition.

As to the lifters, I suspect dirt in the system. I would clean and flush the oil system, including the tank and lines and oil cooler, too, if you have one. The service manual shows the method for the lifters. I would remove the pushrod tubes, pushrods and lifters. Empty the lifters with a piece of wire into the small hole in the botom then clean them thoroughly and replace them dry.

For adjustment, get the front clyinder on Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. You can do this by removing the plugs, jack the rear wheel and put it in fourth gear so you can rotate the engine. When both lifters are down with the piston up, you can re-install the tubes and pushrods and then adjust. Use new O-rings in the pushrod tubes.

Turn them down until there is just noticeable shake. Then go down four full turns and then back up about a turn and a half. That gets the lifter into the approximate center of the hydraulic region.

Then do the rear cylinder the same way and button it up. It will click and clack for about five minutes until the lifters pump up then you'll be good to go.

Oh, yeah, use 60 wt oil.......

Good luck.

[Tony S]

Thankyou much to you both...This will be my weekend project.
Oh,& Sac...when you say "flush" the system...uhhh,what do you mean? Do I run a thin weight oil in it for a few miles, drain it & replace with fresh 60w or what? Enlighten me...I want to know EXACTLY what you would do. Thanks,T.
I change my oil EVERY 500 miles & run Valvoline 60w racing oil (just so ya know)

[newultraclassic]

Originally Posted by Tony S

Thankyou much to you both...This will be my weekend project.
Oh,& Sac...when you say "flush" the system...uhhh,what do you mean? Do I run a thin weight oil in it for a few miles, drain it & replace with fresh 60w or what? Enlighten me...I want to know EXACTLY what you would do. Thanks,T.
I change my oil EVERY 500 miles & run Valvoline 60w racing oil (just so ya know)

Every 500 is a lot sooner than I do...it sounds like you may just need an adjustment. You don't have many miles so I doubt that hte valve guides are worn loose but that will cause the lifters to clack. I'd try aa full adjustment and see what happens. Your oil system should be pretty clean if you change that frequently.

Good luck