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Old 03-22-2009, 04:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1960 Pan - Running Problems

Just bought my old Pan back after an absence on 4 years or so - good times! Trouble is, I can't get it to run - bad times!!
After a bit of a clean up and a once over, i got it started no problems (fist time!! ) and let it run for a bit. A little later I decided to take it for a spin, that's when the problems started.
It started straight up straight off on about the second or thrid kick, so all seemed well; but it didn't sound right and was struggling to hold for about 1/2 mile when it finally gave up the ghost and cut out - in the middle of the local rush hour!!
After a lot of kicking over and the odd splutter to life and 20 yd trundle, I gave up and pushed it the 1/2 mile home - through the rush hour....
That was yesterday.
Today, i had a blitz and did the following:
Checked plugs - gap good slight sooting on the tops (rich mixture?)
Checked in line fuel filter - half full of cr@p.
Checked gap on points in distributor - seemed a little wide so brought back down to HD recommended gap (4/1000" - 6/1000"), until i realised that this was the later model of ignition system; hadn't recorded the original gap and spent a while playing with gaps.
Checked the carb - reset the idle speed, mixture and pump adjustment screws to the 'stock' settings, then spent the rest of the afternoon playing with these settings and the points gap.
Bugger me (old English saying) if i could get it to start really sweet of the first kick or so, but then it would die out after 10 - 15 seconds.
So what do i look to:
Carb Bowl (S&S Super E) - give it a clean out? But if the filter picked up all the cr@p, surely the carb will be clean?
Replace the petcock? Gas tank is @ 1/2 full but i seem to get different results between 'on' and 'res'.
Re-position the points (automatic advance system) - what should be the gap? i ended up with around 12/1000" and it sounded fine; the assumption is that the timing is good, but then again....oh no, I'd rather not think about getting into all that!
Any suggestions guys?
SF
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sure sounds like starving for fuel, so I'd say, yes, focus on the fuel line and tank.
Empy the tank, clean out the fuel line, filter and gas valve. Make sure you can get clean flow for several minutes before plugging the line back into the carb.
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I love these old bikes nothing to blind you for running.
New plugs, fuel filter , points ( or at least clean em ),timing, clean out the carband check float level, check compression ,check push rods, fresh gas.
If you got spark and fuel it should go.
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Last edited by wanna ride; 03-23-2009 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 03-23-2009, 02:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm looking at fuel first. I am taking the tank off for a re-spray anyway, so i will check the petcock, filter and fuel line and replace them if necessary. I can't imagine it would be the float bowl as the filter base (engine side) was clean.
Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Clean the carb, the alumium in the carb corrods from the air and gas and you get that white powder all thru the jets, plus water collects in the float bowl from the air just like it does in a gas can if it sits around too long, if you had it running you need to blow out the jets with air cause all that crud is up in them
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Gas tank off now.
Turns out the petcock was only letting gas through on reserve (not at all on 'on') and even on reserve it was just a trickle - possibly the problem...?
Next step whilst the paint job gets done is to clean out the carb - watch this space!!
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Old 04-17-2010, 02:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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hey.. my first thoughts were the carb or not choking right.. it would make sense as the engine warms up and the choke not opening would starve the engine and at the very least run weak and sputter out on acceleration.
i'm in the process of building a 60 Panhead FL with my son so i'd be interested in the problems you have had and how you over came them..

good luck.
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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When my pan did that, I had waxed over the little vent hole in the cap. Gas would flow for the first few minutes, then stop.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter View Post
When my pan did that, I had waxed over the little vent hole in the cap. Gas would flow for the first few minutes, then stop.
Did that exact same thing on an old Triumph way back when.

On your pan, despite being clean inside, could be still be some small crap lodged in the petcock that had been floating around in there and now can't clear the petcock.

Regardless, sounds like you'll soon have this straightened out.
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Replace the condenser...they get weak and leaky. Electrolytic capacitors get weak from lack of use then short some layers and change their capacitance. Watch the points when opened and closed - should be a blue arc - if orange the condenser is shot.

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Old 04-25-2010, 06:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Point gap is .022 of a inch. Easy enough to check the spark take the plug out of the head put it in the plug wire make sure you ground it to the head and kick it through. Should have a nice blue spark.
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Last edited by 46u; 04-25-2010 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Hi guys,
A belated update.
The bike is running sweet now and is in for a few Winter 'mods'. The main problems were from the fuel valve and the carb setup, all sorted now.
I managed to get hold of an old Pav 40 (scooter) trailer which I fitted up for touring and rallies, and it rides real sweet - you woudn't know it was there half the time....which can be a danger!!
See a few pics on the H-DRCGB Site <<HERE>>.
More pics to follow!
SF
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Great looking bike, nice to here she's purring again.
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