Input needed on Shovelhead build

[1972Formula400]

I am building a 70's style chopper, rigid frame 10" up, 5" out with 45 degrees of rake, springer front end, 40 spoke wheels, gonna use a harley 5 speed case and make it a 6 speed kick start transmission, the bike will be kick start only, will be running a magneto for ignition, king and queen seat, sissy bar, blah, blah, blah. You guys know how the list just goes on and on and on! Anyhow.....I want to build a shovelhead for this project. Would like a good amount of power, high compression, lopey idle....I want it to run like a raped ape, but also want it to be able to cruise to sturgis and back with....thats around 275miles 1 way for me, but I want it to do that trip with little to know hiccups. I need a build recipe on a healthy stroker shovel head from you guys. What parts? Where to get them? Any tricks of the trade to gain some free power? Anything to help me get started on locating parts. Thanks

[Krowbar]

Shovelhead parts, although harder to get, are still widely available. Do you have any idea on what CI you want to get? Are you wanting to buy a crate motor, or completely building your own? I've seen someone on here claim 142hp our of their shovel in their signature. Not sure who though.

[Krowbar]

Do you already have the frame, tins, tranny, wheels, carb, and all that already? Why not buy real 70's chopper? (Wink Wink ^^). Although this bike isn't a "raped ape" build. It would be VERY cheap to make it that way with a decent build. Just heads and shave some CI out of her. Already have a Super E carb, tranny, etc. Just thought... haha I also have a set powder coated wide glide forks never installed. My "winter" project has changed.

[Krowbar]

Oh, and it's a 72 like your username.. haha

[1970pelle]

You do have a couple of choices. First you have to decide exatly what you want. A bar hopper or a ridder. Or the best of both worlds. That would be a 93ci stroker. You can buy the stroker kit from S&S and have a known good Shovelhead machine shop do you machine work. And have a bike that will blow 98% of the bikes you meet at stop lights.And a bike you can get on and ride across country.If you don't want to go that big go 88 ci. Or being its a 72 year engine its 72 ci go with a 80 ci and bore the cylinders and add a decent cam,ignition and 2 into 1 header.Good to go. If you go bigger than 93 ci. You will lose you dependablity and durablity. Todays Shovels will go 100k on a 93 ci build. You need to check in over at Shovelhead.us. My 1970 Shovelhead is bored to the max without touching the cases. I'm running a Andrews AB cam,Crane Hi-4 single fire ignition,2 into 1 exhaust,Late model CV carb.Also a few years later 4 speed. And it sounds great the cam is lopey and it runs strong.I don't race anyone. Ken

[Krowbar]

The '72 shovelhead was a 74". not 72". A well built 80" shovel will be a great motor!

[Toolmkr]

Ron Trock jr. is still making big bore jugs for shovelhead engines. A 3-13/16" bore with a 4-1/2" stroke is a nice combo with low maintenance.

[cernunos]

Halloo. Ya got a lotta good info comin' yer way there. I agree with the Andrews AB grind, a tried and true cam that sounds good and pulls good. Personally I would keep it at 88 inches or under. Say, go with 4-1/4 inch stroke and 3-5/8 bore, keep compression around 9.2 static or even 9.1, use solid lifters (Shovel cylinders grow a lot when hot), S&S rods, good oil pump (Jims Flo-Pro1 is a good pump) and either a Mikuni or S&S Shorty carb (partial to the S&S myself), and you will have a combo that runs stout and will last for a while if you keep it maintained. Since yer buildin' a hard-tail, you should be able to keep the weight down to around 500-550 pounds wet...IF you work at it. I'd run a chain final drive and some type of belt primary. If you do it right you could use, say, a 49 tooth wheel sprocket for the long hauls and have another wheel with 51 tooth you could swap out for quick runs in the city or the burbs...bar hoppin' type. Love the Shovels, man, when I got Angel I later thought...."coulda' had me another Shovel...".

C.......

[johnjzjz]

its a dollar issue - 84 inch is a 1200 shovel with 4 1/2 stroke crank - its a boring choice - 89 inch is 3 1/2 bore and a 4 5/8 stroke crank 80 inch shovel kit thats works - >060 over 1200 barrels are 3 1/2 bore like a 1978 and up 80 inch shovel motor they make pistons for 3 1/2 bore for the 89 inch only not for the 3 3/16 1200 bore cylinders , that is a good kit to have 8 1/2 to one compression 89 inch stroker you can electric start it or kick it with no issues buy duration in a cam not LIFT as lift in shovel heads is all a money pit - dont believe the 93 inch 98 inch shovel motors, yea they do make that kit but cases must be bored and lots of machine work to fit , but not for long, and a bigger motor its even worse - thousands to repair and it wont keep up with the hot rods that are being used today with big inch motors - if you have 10 grand to throw at a motor than sure go for it but if you want a fun rider that wont kill all the fun with repairs in the thousands all the time -- just my take been do this is my bike shop 40 years seen it all twice - jz

[Larbaldi]

Originally Posted by 1972Formula400

I am building a 70's style chopper, rigid frame 10" up, 5" out with 45 degrees of rake, springer front end, 40 spoke wheels, gonna use a harley 5 speed case and make it a 6 speed kick start transmission, the bike will be kick start only, will be running a magneto for ignition, king and queen seat, sissy bar, blah, blah, blah. You guys know how the list just goes on and on and on! Anyhow.....I want to build a shovelhead for this project. Would like a good amount of power, high compression, lopey idle....I want it to run like a raped ape, but also want it to be able to cruise to sturgis and back with....thats around 275miles 1 way for me, but I want it to do that trip with little to know hiccups. I need a build recipe on a healthy stroker shovel head from you guys. What parts? Where to get them? Any tricks of the trade to gain some free power? Anything to help me get started on locating parts. Thanks

I used the S&S 86" kit along with their crankshaft pin and the 495 camshaft. I also used the Super E Carb, Pushrods, Oil Pump, Valve Springs, Retainers and Intake Manifold, Manley Stainless Salves, Rowe Bronze Guides. I was fortunate enough to have a friend who was working at McLaren (Indy Fame) at the time who "massaged" the cylinder heads. It is a STRONG runner and very reliable. This was done more than a few years ago so there may be better alternatives out there today but as I stated this one worked/works for me.

[jjq]

I did the 93" route on my 1980 shovel. S&S Super Sidewinder kit, STD dual plug heads, Single fire ignition, S&S oil pump,Thunderheader,etc. I've had it since 02' and still runs better than my 95" Twin cam. Just wish I could afford a Baker 6 into 4. Someday...

[dog155]

93" is a good combo for a Shovel.Back in the 70's built one with STD cases, S&S wheels, rods and pistons, 485 Sifton,S&S Super B with K&N behind teardrop,single fire ignition.Staggered tuned duals with slightly modified mufflers for flow.Blueprinted the clutch,ran it dry with belt behind vented covers.This motor was also balanced and in a SuperGlide.This bike was the one to beat for all comers for several years till the 1000cc rice came along.Even then could easily blow them away stoplight to stoplight.This bike was geared for drag racing certainly not a topender as are most street Harleys.

[1972Formula400]

Thank you for all of the input guys. I have decided I am going to go with a 93". What compression ratio do you guys recommend?

[johnjzjz]

we have $hit gas today so 8.5 the most 9 to 1 its an iron jug - i would run a late ignition and use a VOES switch its what we do today with all the shovels and adjust it out to 7 inch"s of vacuum -- just my take its not the leaded gas 1970s anymore -- jz

[Mikezinnc]

<ake sure you have someone really good with Shovels do your case boring (If you arent buying a crate motor). My Buddy from West Virginia showed me his cases in his 93" and they are really thin at the case bolt that goes between the cylinders.