New (to me) FLHTP-I issues

[Covan-6]

Ok, Bought an '03 FLHTP-I in an online auction while on leave from Iraq. Drove it home. Now I am back from Iraq for good and have taken her out on a few shakedown cruises. I have so many questions that I don't know where to start - so here I am.

Clutch seems to not fully disengage. Bike wants to creep fwd while clutch is pulled at a stop. Sometimes kills the engine too. So, I bought the manuals, changed all the fluids and adjusted the clutch cable and adjuster inside. It's better, but still seems to be engaged a bit. Is this normal?

Check engine light comes on and off intermittently. Mostly on, but goes off when I rev pretty hard. Something to worry about? I changed all fluids, but the motor has 53k on it.

When I reach speeds of 75mph, I get a wicked death wobble in the bars - almost a full tank slapper. Slower than 75 no issue, it seems. Maybe it's me - rode a sportster for 15 years and the size difference may be getting to me.

Lastly, the police pulled out the red/blue lenses on the front of the bike, leaving just the hiway light housings. Is there a pod that fits in there so I can wire up some white riding lights? HD dealer had no idea . . .

Okay, thanks much for the help, I'm sure I'll have more issues as I start getting used to this cool bike.

[route66paul]

i can't say about most of it, but the wobble is usually because the swingarm bushing/rear mounts are worn. They make products to keep it in line.

The normal 4" spots fit right in place of the colored lights, you do have to wire a switch though.

Get a manual and their is a supplimental police manual, which helps a lot on electrical issues.

[Covan-6]

Thanks for your response - I did get both manuals (the Police supplement too) and adjusted the clutch as the manual said (I think). Is the rear swing arm bushing/rear mounts (???) easy to replace? Where can I get a product that keeps it in line? Also, where can I find 4" spots? Thanks for all your help!

[Covan-6]

I took it apart again, and readjusted the clutch exactly per the manual, but it still will not fully disengage, causing me to die at stop signs. Anyone know which way I should "experiment" with the adjuster screw under the clutch inspection cover? I am an undersexed and underpaid Marine that cannot happily afford a shop . . .but will if I need to.

Thanks

[route66paul]

here is 1 place. just google 12v 4" sealed beams


http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store...ectionid=10413


You cn buy yellow, also. Those just scream, "Harley!" coming at you

[Jonas]

Hey Covan,

Congratulations on the bike. Thank You for your Service Marine!

Unrelated to the problems you have listed. I suggest you do a search on this forum for Cam Tensioners. At 54000 if this has not been addressed it will be a problem.


Clutch Adjustment I got the below procedure from this forum years ago. I cannot remember who wrote it. Apologies to the author.



If you want to adjust the clutch, do this:

First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.

1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ½” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.

2) Completely pull the clutch lever. Remove the “C” clip from the bottom of the clutch lever retaining pin, at the clutch lever, then slide the lever from the bracket, so it’s hanging by the cable.

3) Squirt Bike Aid lube into the cable just until it drips out of the jam nut assembly.

4) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.

5) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.

6) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.

7) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!

8) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ½ turn to one full turn. Now that you’ve learned to use the clutch to control the motor, you should use ¾ turn. ½ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.

9) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.

10) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50-70 inch pounds of torque.

11) Again add Bike aid to the cable, until it drips from the jam nut assembly.

12) Replace the lever in the bracket, being careful not to bend the black plastic anti-rattle shim. Install the “C” clip.

13) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.


Good Luck

[Covan-6]

Thanks for the response for the clutch Jonas - It varies a little from the manual, so I'm gonna try it as soon as I can. I'll also check into the tensioner . . . First step is to figure out what it is!

Route66 thanks for the link on the lights.

I'm making progress, I think adjusting the air pressure in the suspension may have helped the wobble, will find out on the interstate tonight.

Next is to find a code reader to find out why my "check engine" light comes on and off, and why it sometimes dies at idle . . .

Thanks again!

Covan

[Jonas]

Covan,

You may not need a code reader. The 03 will display a code by the Sequence of the Engine Light flashing. You have to do a routine that involes turning the ignition switch on and off. (Should be in you manual). If you can't find it, I have a 03 Clymers manual with it. Mine is a 04 so it is different.

The tensioners are a problem with TwinCam engines 99-06. They put tension on the cam chain. They wear more then expected by Harley. Some have worn out and came apart at 20,000. So at 54,000 you are on borrowed time, if they have not been replaced.

Once they wear ;
Come apart and clog the oil pump
Put metal on metal on the cam chain, not good inside the engine.
Defenilty has the potential to ruin you engine.

There is good information on this site about the tensioners. The budget repair(sound like what you would need). If they are worn, just replace them. Should only be a couple hundred dollars. When your ready to inspect them, I have the tool and instructions you need to inspect them. PM me your address I will send them to you, just send the tool back when your done.

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/tw...ml#post1649291

[hodshire]

covan-6 ,
Jonas is right about tensioners, check them asap. Your clutch is burnt up if you have adjusted per manual and still have the stated issues. New SE clutch pack and spring is around $200.00 and you can do that service yourself. I just had same issues and had new clutch installed when I replaced my old tensioners and replaced with new hydraulic kit. If you have this done by dealer the cost will be $900.00 to $1200.00. It made my bike run alot quieter and smoother. Welcome home from the sandbox and whatever your MOS; Thanks Marine.

[Covan-6]

You guys are most generous with your information. I will try again to adjust the clutch, and if not, will get a new one and try to figure out putting that in. For the tensioners, it sounds like penny wise or pound foolish for me - better get them checked and hope the cops changed them out.

New problem - last night I had to ride to arlington to see one of my boys we buried - I was his commander. About a 40 mile ride for me - but on the 95 my bike got really squirrely at 75. I slowed way down and experimented - found out if I jack the bars to change lanes, I get a wobble that only stops if i slow or speed up. Any idea if this is swingarm or neck bearing? Tires appear brand new and I have em at right pressure.

I once again want to thank you all for your time helping me..

Jonas, I will take you up on your generous offer to loan tools when I am ready - hope to pay you back in spades some day.

Oh, by the way, Hodshire, I am an 03. Pure Grunt.

Semper Fidelis

[Jeff Dodson]

Im think maybe the front wheel not nalanced correctly?

As far as the front passing ligts, I dont know if your still has it, but if you put the lights in and the flash. Go into the side panel where the fuses are, there is a small cylindrical can, same as a flasher pod from a car ( some of the replacements are square and plastic) eather way, there is 3 wires to that. remove the plug and splice all three wires together. This may have already ben done, see what happens after you first put the the lights in. I still have my 03 Police Road King and still use it for escorts. I now have self contained LED lights so I had to do that anyway.

[Covan-6]

Thanks for that tip on the lights - never thought about the flashers!

Now, the local shop tells me that the clutch issues are because the Police adjust their clutches to not disengage all the way - makes for better slow speed maneuvering.

They say that the death wobble is probably the bearing in the neck needing adjustment or replacement

Is it easy for a fairly new mechanic to inspect the cam chain tensioners? I'd like to check that out myself before I go in for major $$

THe shop tells me to fit newer hydraulic tensioners - at extra cost of course.

What do you guys think?

[christina2009]

Originally Posted by Covan-6

I took it apart again, and readjusted the clutch exactly per the manual, but it still will not fully disengage, causing me to die at stop signs. Anyone know which way I should "experiment" with the adjuster screw under the clutch inspection cover? I am an undersexed and underpaid Marine that cannot happily afford a shop . . .but will if I need to.

Thanks

Great work .. really informative .. and thanks a lot for sharing ..
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[Jonas]

Here is link to a great procedure to check the tensioners.

http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/sho...hain+tensioner

[Covan-6]

Jonas, thanks for the link - internet skills still growing on my end. I'll give it a go, I think, checking the tensioners this weekend. I'll take pics too.

I'm getting there eventually with this scoot . . .

Christina2009 - I didn't mean to be offensive if that's what you're implying.

I just want to ride after 19 mo in the box.