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Old 03-16-2009, 10:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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kawi carb sync?

My son has an older 500 kawasaki crotch rocket type. he decided he should pull the carbs ( twin ) off the bike and take them apart to clean the needles and jets. Now he has the carbs back on the bike and set to specifications he came across for the screws. Does the carbs need to be syncronized by a bike shop now?
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Old 03-16-2009, 04:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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yep, or do it yourself if you can borrow a mercury tube set.
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Old 03-16-2009, 05:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Bummer , I figured as much, my son mentioned to me I should buy a mercury tool for syncing carbs but I guess he didn't realize I only have single carb on my bike. Are they semi cheap to buy from anywhere?
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanna ride View Post
Bummer , I figured as much, my son mentioned to me I should buy a mercury tool for syncing carbs but I guess he didn't realize I only have single carb on my bike. Are they semi cheap to buy from anywhere?
lots of folks will lend em----you may have to replace the rotted hoses. if not, it should only be a half hour max labor at the dealer.
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I just happened to run into my buddy that runs a bike shop here. He told me I could simply flip the carbs over and do the same way I use to do my old sporty which was to use I think a 3/16" drill bit as a guage off the carb body lined up with the float, can anyone verify this method on these carbs or size of drill bit to use?
This all started when my son took the carbs apart to clean them and I'm thinking its the floats that are out of wack because I can run it ok and choke responds by revving up rpm's but as soon as I attempt to even feather up the throttle a bit the motor dies and this is after the bike is fully warmed up, does that sound like floats are too low?
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:26 AM   #6 (permalink)
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slow jets are clogged, use a wire from wire brush to cleant the holes. do every hole. also pull the emulsion tube (main jet and tube) and clean every hole with torch tip cleaning tool. if float is level with carb body, it will run .
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Old 03-18-2009, 11:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks I'm going to pull them off today.
Just curious though, why will the bike rev up to over 4 grand when I use the choke?
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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not a choke, but an enrichener. its circuit is not dependant on the others.
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Old 03-18-2009, 06:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Took carbs off and checked the floats , both set about 17-18 mm from base of main body to bottom of float and I noticed that the adjusting tang is very stiff and not like the older carbs where they could easily go out of adjustment after being pushed, so I did touch them. I'll pull all the jets and clean holes. Any idea on how many turns out for idle mixture screw? Also I noticed the fuel over flow hose nipple was turned upward while carbs were still on the bike and I could see fuel inside the nipple, would this mean anything? I would think that should be turned down and be empty.
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Old 03-18-2009, 06:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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one turn. and the fuel in the hose and float level too high indicates the float valves are worn, or dirty from old fuel.get some emory and twist the float needle between fingers till clean.
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Old 03-18-2009, 06:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I think I see what you mean the float valves are actually not seating to shut off the fuel flow to the bowls, maybe the rubber tips have gone hard. Does this sound inline withnot being able to throttle up at all without engine dying out?
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok I stripped the carbs right down used compressed air on all the holes and small needle on anything I could get it into, no differnce.
Ok this is what I'm lost with, on the old carbs I use to work on amals and that sort of era there was a slider that held the long needle along with a clip in which ever position you wanted, and when you gave it throttle the slider would pull up along with the needle, so with this type of carb there is no cable although there is a jet needle inside the slider and its sealed uptop with a rubber diaphram and the top cover is spring loaded. So what I'm thinking is , is it possible something is stopping theat jet needle from being pulled away from the hole like its suppose to like vacuum ?
here's a pic of the carb
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Old 03-18-2009, 11:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Update, after posting last I again looked at the carb diagram and the problem jumped right out at me. The top spring and needle were put in in the wrong order , the needle should have gone in first then the spring holder and spring. Went out told my son and left him to it, all is good now.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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doesnt sound like i helped much, but happy to hear ya got the ol girl going!!!

the best part of this is you and your son bonding over a motorcycle!
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:15 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yes your quite correct on the bonding. It also brings back memories of how much I actually enjoy working on bikes.
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