New Mobil 1

[thunderpaw]

Mobil 1 has apparently been reformulated again. The familiar 'red cap' 15W-50 is history. Now they have Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50...supposedly with additional additives so they can 'guarantee' it will be good for 15,000 miles(not in MY scoot!). It's more expensive, natch-about sixty cents more per quart at Wally World. Still CF rated.

Kim

[newultraclassic]

Originally Posted by thunderpaw

Mobil 1 has apparently been reformulated again. The familiar 'red cap' 15W-50 is history. Now they have Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50...supposedly with additional additives so they can 'guarantee' it will be good for 15,000 miles(not in MY scoot!). It's more expensive, natch-about sixty cents more per quart at Wally World. Still CF rated.

Kim

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They won't leave that stuff alone, will they? I used to run Mobil-1 15-50 Car oil in my 1500 Goldwing. No problems whatsoever. In the Goldwing it oils the engine, transmission and clutch which are all together in one case.

It used to be less than $4.00. The other stuff, for motorcycles is good, I guess but it's over 8 bucks. So, I'd just as soon run the Syn-3 for the same price.

With the higher prices of the Mobil-1 Car oil, my Goldinging friends are now running Rotella Synthetic Diesel engine oil. The one that comes in a blue jug at Wally-Mart. It's 5-40, a little light for your Hog.

[thunderpaw]

Yeah, I sure wish Rotella T synth was available in a -50wt.

[01FLHT4ME]

though I have only used the moble 1 15w50 in my bikes except for two changes (Rotella-T 5w40) if I can not get it anymore I will most likly go with the Rotella-T 5w40 Syn. I ran fine in the bike, I really could not tell the diff. between the two.

[Ridewv]

FYI, this is from someone on a Gold Wing site....

Rick


Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 1:55 pm Post subject: Mobil 1 Gold Cap Information

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For what it's worth here is some information on the "switcheroo" that Mobil is pulling with their oils.
Most oil information from the manufacturer is just advertising hype anyway so I tend to believe the below information..........
Not meaning to start any debates just passing on information.

NOTE:
This was copied from the Riders forums with permission from the author.

Quote:
This information was written by someone after about 40 years with one of Mobile's competitors. This only shows that he has the knowledge base. His comments are not made to bust anyones chops, but only to inform. There have been so many comments made about the Mobile 1 product line recently, that I simply went out and asked someone that I have known personally for several years who was in the oil industry for all of his adult life. Nowhere in my these comments did he, or I, slam any competitor other than to say in effect, that he won't deal with companies that twist the truth. I never read that as a slam against any particular cometitor, i.e., Amsoil, Castrol, Shell Valvoline, or any other company, but only as a personal statement from a knowledgeable consumer.

Darryl Kazen
Ride Safe, Ride Smart, Ride Often


OK!! I checked what was going on with the so called Mobil 1 "Red Cap" disappearance. Well, it is not. What has happened is Mobil has upgraded all of their motor oils for all applications. What often times happens when this occurrs is the package, or label, or colors of the package can be changed. Mobil has done this. They now have the color of the cap designate the "line of motor oils" where before the color of the caps designated the "grade of motor oils". Ok, what is the difference? The grade of motor oil is whether it is a 5W-30, 10W-30, or 15W-50. We used to look for the "red cap" on the 15W-50 Mobil 1 motor oil. Now the "red cap" on the new mobil line represents their line of mineral oils, all grades from 5W-30 on up. The new Mobil 1 line of motor oils is represented by the gold cap, and for all grades from 5W-30 on up to 15W-50. I presume that the gold cap was picked to represent their top of the line of oils. I believe where one sees the blue cap now will represent their line of semi-synthetics where before the blue cap was their 5W-30 motor oil line. OK!!! Is this making sense? Mobil 1 full synthetic is still available, and now better than ever. Just look for the gold cap, then look at the label with a "red" color behind the grade designation of 15W-50. See, the red still exists afterall.

Now for some more technical information. The new formulation of this oil has a better, more robust, stronger additive package to aid in its ability to last longer. They say they will guarantee it for 15,000 miles of operation. I don't plan on going that long because I don't feel that good about that distance. I plan on still changing mine every 5,000 miles. But rest assured, the Mobil 1 line of oils are now better than ever. Also, they do not, on any of their grades, list it as "energy conserving", so this denotes that there is not any "friction modifier" in the oils. You know, the stuff that is supposed to be bad for the wet clutches. We can all continue to use the Mobil 1 15W 50 motor oil in our bikes and rest assured that we have the best there is to get. As I said before, Mobil 1 might not be the best there is, but there is none better, if you understand what I am saying. Others can be as good as Mobil 1, but none will be better.

Now, and last. Being in a business where competition is always very intense, I detest any other motor oil company leading people to believe that something has changed or is wrong when it is not. This is misleading, dishonest, and when I catch others doing this, they have immediately lost my business whether their product is good or not. I understand that this is happening, and that statements have been made that Mobil 1 no longer makes the "red cap" oils, so you are going to have to switch. Rubbish!! Whom ever is making this claim should loose all business they go after. At least sell your product because it is better, or just as good, or on it's quality reputation. Not by bashing your competition. Many oils can be used in our bikes and they will perform very good. If you like Mobil 1 oils and have been happy with them, then you still have them, but just under the gold plastic cap. After all, we buy what is inside the bottle, not what is on the outside of the bottle. A red cap has never lubricated the inside of our engines. And, as an added note, I do not now work for , or have I ever worked for, Exxon or Mobil Oil Companies. This information and opinion comes from many years being in the development and formulation of motor oils for other name brand companies.

[Seahag]

Originally Posted by newultraclassic

==================
They won't leave that stuff alone, will they? I used to run Mobil-1 15-50 Car oil in my 1500 Goldwing. No problems whatsoever. In the Goldwing it oils the engine, transmission and clutch which are all together in one case.

It used to be less than $4.00. The other stuff, for motorcycles is good, I guess but it's over 8 bucks. So, I'd just as soon run the Syn-3 for the same price.
With the higher prices of the Mobil-1 Car oil, my Goldinging friends are now running Rotella Synthetic Diesel engine oil. The one that comes in a blue jug at Wally-Mart. It's 5-40, a little light for your Hog.

In the 5qt containers at Wally World it still only works out to about $4.60 a qt...you show me where you can get syn3 or any of the motorcycle specific syn formulas for that. The mobil 1 15W-50 car formula is still the "Best Buy" in my opinion...and I'll stick with it.
It was an interesting revelation that the oil CAN be used in the primary though...I'd always been told to stay away.

[jrrhdmust]

Originally Posted by thunderpaw

Yeah, I sure wish Rotella T synth was available in a -50wt.

Be careful here...I contacted Shell a couple of months ago looking at putting the Rotella Synth in my Turbo Diesel. I have an e-mail from the Shell engineer stating that the Rotella is a hydrogen infused Dyno oil. It is not lab created nor is it a synthetic. So you are not going to get the temperature protection or the lower operating temperatures with Rotella "synth".

[kink04fxd]

Originally Posted by Seahag

It was an interesting revelation that the oil CAN be used in the primary though...I'd always been told to stay away.

I've been using M-1 15-50 in my primary for a long time without any problems. I think the lower viscosities were the ones with the friction modifiers.

[crudstud]

after reading info in another forum about using motor oil (synthetic) in the primary, i drained out the mobil 1 extended service and put in Mobil 1's synthetic gear oil.

[Seahag]

Originally Posted by crudstud

after reading info in another forum about using motor oil (synthetic) in the primary, i drained out the mobil 1 extended service and put in Mobil 1's synthetic gear oil.

Are you SURE you didn't mean Transmission?

[Seahag]

Originally Posted by kink04fxd

I've been using M-1 15-50 in my primary for a long time without any problems. I think the lower viscosities were the ones with the friction modifiers.

According to a source on another page, the new extended wear Mobil 1 15W-50 has twice the ammount of molybedenum...which has been known to reduce the ability of your clutch to grab. I've put in a technical request with Mobil oils directly...when I have some definitive answers I'll post them.

[kink04fxd]

I still have the old stuff in my primary and won't be changing it out any time soon. If the new formula isn't compatible I can always switch to something else. What about the M1 V-Twin 15-50?

[csoday]

Use any good oil or SYN, change at regular intervals, use the stock (or premium) filter, stock oil pump, and an oil cooler if you live south of the Mason Dixon.
And, YES Syn 3 (if that’s your choice) works great in all 3 holes

This is my standard answer to any and all oil threads

[jrrhdmust]

Originally Posted by csoday

an oil cooler if you live south of the Mason Dixon.

You can skip the oil cooler if you are running a REAL synthetic. I ran an independent test on my 95 Dyna. I had access to an IR heat gun. With an oil cooler an Dyno oil (from Harley) my bike ran 18 degrees cooler. I dropped the oil cooler, change the oil to Amsoil and even though initial measurements were taken at 10AM --- at 1:00PM the bike ran 22 degrees cooler.