The nitty-gritty of SYN3

[Fenderplayer]

I don't think you can go wrong with Mobil 1 or Amsoil, as most everyone on this thread seems to agree, but anything made by Citgo should be poured on Hugo Chavez and set afire.

[cwilks]

You can't go wrong with regular ol 20/50 either.............

[wkohn]

Originally Posted by doyall

If there are significant amounts of Group I and II oils in the SYN3, could the MoCo have streached the definition of "synthetic" a bit further than Castrol did when changing Syntec from a PAO Group IV base to a hydrocracked Group III base? Wonder if ExxonMobil will go after them and we will get a new definition for "synthetic?"

To me, SYN3 is not worth $8.25/qt.

ExxonMobil already went after Castro Oil for the same thing and lost in the courts because the judge didn't know anything about oil.

[davidlw]

I just bought a Electra Glide and would like to go synthetic. At what mileage can I switch from Dino to Synthetic. Also will going to Synthetic not Sync3 will that have any warranty issues?

[YankeeBob]

No warranty issues. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. If they do, they are blowing smoke up your arse.

On all three of my break-ins, I switched to M1 V-Twin 20/50 at 1000 miles.

[1711tab]

Originally Posted by davidlw

I just bought a Electra Glide and would like to go synthetic. At what mileage can I switch from Dino to Synthetic. Also will going to Synthetic not Sync3 will that have any warranty issues?

Any rated oil that has the specs required by the MC will work and synthetic oils will give superior lubercation.

I like Amsoil, use what you think is best for you.

[1711tab]

Originally Posted by dragforce

I read a lot of this thread but not all of it.

I learned that syn-3 is a blend of synthetic and dino oil and that amsoil and mobil 1 vtwin are pure synthetic oils.

I learned that screamin eagle recommends syn-3 for the engine and the transmission(clutch). However, mobil 1 is not recommended for the clutch area.

So, what I am thinking is , screamin eagle created the blend on purpose so that it could be used in the clutch area(not too slippery).


So as I see it, full synthetic in the engine and dino in the primary is the way to go, or you could just buy syn-3 and use it everywhere and give up a little protection on the engine side but gain convience.

I am wondering if I switch to synthetic in the engine will I need an oil cooler? And if I get an oil cooler will I need synthetic? Buying the oil cooler and running dino oil is the cheaper way to go, but I dont know if it is the best way to go.

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US

Opinions are like a**holes we all have them. Facts are facts, the MC wants everyone to buy there products.

Choose the fluids your comfortable with and use them.

[Fxsts103ci]

Originally Posted by dragforce

I read a lot of this thread but not all of it.

I learned that syn-3 is a blend of synthetic and dino oil and that amsoil and mobil 1 vtwin are pure synthetic oils.

I learned that screamin eagle recommends syn-3 for the engine and the transmission(clutch). However, mobil 1 is not recommended for the clutch area.

I3East_id=2534374302288567&bmUID=1180298941688&bmL ocale=en_US[/url]

Never heard that Mobile 1 was not recommended for the primary... In fact Mobil say's to use their V-twin oil in all three holes and there are many on this site who use the red cap or whatever the new color cap is maybe gold in the primary. I have been using it for the last 25k miles no problem . I used Amsoil it the engine and primary.

[Belicoso_Fino]

I have been using Mobil 1 V-Twin oil for YEARS with no problems. I was adamant that all of the info that the MoCo was feeding us about bearing skate and all of the other "dangers" of using full syn was pure crap.

My SE Fatboy was delivered with SYN3. At the 1k service, I carted a case of Mobil 1 in with me to the horror of the service manager, tech, and the owner of the dealership. They actually refused to put it in. I told them that if they didn't put it in it was going to end a 9 year relationship and my business would go across town to another dealer. I was incredulous that these people would happily pour their overpriced SYN3 crap into my bike and NOT pour in my oil. Needless to say, money and common sense wins out over stupidity...they put in the Mobil1 and did right up uintil I moved out of state. In fact, whenever Iordered a case I dropped it off with Arron, my tech, and he kept it under his bench. They never bought up the oil issue with me ever again.

Point is, I'm sick of all of the oil controversy. Use what works for you. It's not the space shuttle, it's a 45 degree air cooled v-twin (in order words, it's not rocket science). For me, that's Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50 in all 3 cavities.

[bill corkey]

The most interesting item to me is that it comes from Citgo, Our Buddy Hugo
Cheves's company.

[glidemonkey]

(Quote) My SE Fatboy was delivered with SYN3. At the 1k service, I carted a case of Mobil 1 in with me to the horror of the service manager, tech, and the owner of the dealership. They actually refused to put it in. I told them that if they didn't put it in it was going to end a 9 year relationship and my business would go across town to another dealer. I was incredulous that these people would happily pour their overpriced SYN3 crap into my bike and NOT pour in my oil. Needless to say, money and common sense wins out over stupidity...they put in the Mobil1 and did right up uintil I moved out of state. In fact, whenever Iordered a case I dropped it off with Arron, my tech, and he kept it under his bench. They never bought up the oil issue with me ever again. (Quote)

Why don't you just change the fluids yourself?

[trooper113]

Originally Posted by bill corkey

The most interesting item to me is that it comes from Citgo, Our Buddy Hugo
Cheves's company.

I don't use any products that can be traced back to Citgo nor will I buy anything at a store that sells Citgo gas. Just me.

[Belicoso_Fino]

Why don't you just change the fluids yourself?

Time. I spend way too much time in airplane seats, so when I get home I want to RIDE, not work on the bike.

They even used to pick it up and drop it off.

[LtTruck43]

Originally Posted by Firepower

1. Synthetic Hydrocarbon - Alpha Olefin polymer
(Ironically, all SHC's are made from petroleum feedstocks but are technically synthesized from their original cracked composites)

2. Additives
After running an infra-red analysis on out Nicolet Impact 410, we noticed, what appeared to be a holgenated ester (or a mild halogen, more than likely a chlorinated or brominated hydrocarbon, with definate signs of a light ester oil). The halogen seemd to be in a 2-4% by weight addition and the ester was definately under 10% (probably near 5-6%).

3. This is a high-end polymer and is the primary constituent of STP. It's used as a viscosity improver/modifier.

4. Blending oil with desired viscosity and characteristics.

5. Ditto.
Most all oils are blends, in order to achieve a desired and somewhat stable oil viscosity at varying temperatures.

6. ZDDP (Its really "Zinc Di-alkyl di-thio phosphate") - This is also found in every motor oil and is used as an anti-scuff/anti-wear additive as well as an oxidation inhibitor.

So what's it mean?
1. It's a true semi-synthetic, as #1 and #3 are full synthetic hydrocarbons and #4 and #5 are Dino-oils (paraffinic base blends). It also makes it compatible with SHC's and Dino oils, alike (in case you have to add either between oil changes).

2. Contains more advanced additive chemistries than most other motor oils, as the Halocarbons are EP (extreme pressure) additives, and fight against ploughing of the metal under boundary conditions. This means it REALLY fights wear better than many other motor oils.
Take it to the bank....the oil companies cater to the demands of the OEMs, especially in the "Big Three", and the last thing an OEM wants, is the oil to make the parts last longer. It's called "planned obsolesence", and for most OEMs, parts replacement is 80% of their cash-flow income. If you affect that (positively), you just ate into the OEM profit and that pisses them off.
Oil companies do NOT set the standards...SAE does, and guess who they are made up of?....you got it....the OEM engineers and upper echelon. (Yes, I'm a 14 year member of SAE, but have no control over the standards or politics there...thank you, Jesus.)
MoCo is indeed a bit different, and knows that the only way to keep those V-Twins stroking under the enormous internal pressures and block-wide stress, is to increase the additive chemistry and include the stuff that others despise. **** still breaks down, but at a lesser rate than if it wasn't there.

Ask George D., he'll tell you the same about the Amsoil, except they go a bit further in providing a full synthetic HC and bump the EP and AW additives up even more, to give a higher end protection under higher thermal stress.

If you want some more techno-info on the like, go here:
http://www.fp10.com/techinfo.html

HTH,

G

hmmmmm. maybe I'll run some oils through our Nicolet, too......
never thought of that...

[Ultimate Bagger]

I'm getting ready to change the oil in my 07 Ultra.

The first change here in a couple hundred miles it will have 1000 miles. Yes, it's new and just being broken in.

I have the 103 kit, I have the pinging.

I'm going to put the Isolation Drive Sprocket mod on and I am flipping back and forth on which oil.

I'm leaning to syn3.