FL swingarm pivot bolt frozen

[Graybeard62]

Hi all...
I'm working on an 85 FL and the swingarm pivot bolt is frozen to the transmission. The service manual says "tap" the bolt to remove, HaHa. Small brass hammer, big brass hammer, BF steel hammer, remove trans and swingarm (fun), 20 ton press all no joy. Any ideas?

[webco2]

Originally Posted by Graybeard62

Hi all...
I'm working on an 85 FL and the swingarm pivot bolt is frozen to the transmission. The service manual says "tap" the bolt to remove, HaHa. Small brass hammer, big brass hammer, BF steel hammer, remove trans and swingarm (fun), 20 ton press all no joy. Any ideas?

Lots of penetrating oil and repeatedly heating and cooling bolt will break the rust loose. Also using an impact wrench to try to turn bolt helps alot.

[Thermodyne]

Heat riser solvent. And you can also drill a small hole in the trans pivot casting at the center of the pivot, perpendicular to the pivot. Then put solvent down the hole.

Soak it a couple of times a day and figure on it taking a while. Once the pivot loosens up, cut the mushroomed ends off and drift it out.

[Mike02]

Originally Posted by webco2

Lots of penetrating oil and repeatedly heating and cooling bolt will break the rust loose. Also using an impact wrench to try to turn bolt helps alot.

This is the best method... don't rush it.. take a week if you have to but it will work!

[lucille]

Originally Posted by Thermodyne

Heat riser solvent. And you can also drill a small hole in the trans pivot casting at the center of the pivot, perpendicular to the pivot. Then put solvent down the hole.

Soak it a couple of times a day and figure on it taking a while. Once the pivot loosens up, cut the mushroomed ends off and drift it out.

I've used a 'coupler nut' and threaded another bolt on the end to get it started. It doesn't ruin the pivot arm. Drill the small hole as Thermodyne suggested...... that is a good tip. Good luck, they can be difficult sometimes.

[y-2-kid]

get yourself some parrifin wax
warm the area around the bolt [dont use too much heat, just enough to melt the wax] enough to melt the wax and apply the wax to the bolt
allow the item to compleatly cool and solidify the wax
the bolt should be removable
its amazing where liquid wax will seep into
the key is to let it cool and solidify before removal

[wfojon]

Originally Posted by webco2

Lots of penetrating oil and repeatedly heating and cooling bolt will break the rust loose. Also using an impact wrench to try to turn bolt helps alot.

Originally Posted by Mike02

This is the best method... don't rush it.. take a week if you have to but it will work!

Yup, what I've had success doing too, my favorite penetrating is PB blaster, available most FLAPS and it really works with aluminum corrosion.
Jon

[springer-]

And when it still won't come free, we remove the rear wheel etc, and sawzall the bolt on each side of the transmission case (careful not to damage the case). Then take the transmission case to the machine shop and drill/machine it out.

Nothing easy about it sometimes on the really frozen ones.

[Graybeard62]

I didn't think there was a magic bullet, but i thought I'd ask! PB Blaster is my friend. Lot's of good advise, pretty much along the lines of what I was thinking. I'll let you know!

[jammer45u]

I had this cross my desk a couple days ago, thought I'd pass it on for what it's worth.

From Machinist Workshop Magazine - test on penetrating oils.

Using nuts and bolts that they "scientifically rusted" to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs
PB Blaster: 214 lbs
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs
Kano Kroil: 106 Lbs
(ATF)Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs

The last shop brew of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat out the commercially prepared products costing far more. I haven't verified this yet.

[jammer45u]

Originally Posted by webco2

Lots of penetrating oil and repeatedly heating and cooling bolt will break the rust loose. Also using an impact wrench to try to turn bolt helps alot.

I've seen the truck mechanics here "quench" frozen bolts to break them loose. They heat the bolt red hot, then pour water over it cooling it quickly. Two or three cycles of heat/cold usually does the trick. If there is a head left they hammer it with the impact while applying liberal applications of penetrant as soon as they quench it. If not they apply the sledge hammer.

[springer-]

The problem is the bolt is rusted inside a roughly 5 inch long section of Aluminum transmissin case. IMO, it is not the same as trying to break free a steal nut on a steal bolt that is rusted.

[1bdBagr]

Originally Posted by springer-

The problem is the bolt is rusted inside a roughly 5 inch long section of Aluminum transmissin case. IMO, it is not the same as trying to break free a steal nut on a steal bolt that is rusted.

I think electrolysis is the culprit and when that happens bad it's a MF'er to break loose.
Good luck.
Tim

[Rollmeaway]

Originally Posted by springer-

And when it still won't come free, we remove the rear wheel etc, and sawzall the bolt on each side of the transmission case (careful not to damage the case). Then take the transmission case to the machine shop and drill/machine it out.

Nothing easy about it sometimes on the really frozen ones.

Read a few then come Springer, exactly what I would do & probably the safest way too. Nothing worse than havin to say
Awe Chit wishIhada.

Swingarm bolt 50.00 buck - Transmission case 400.00 the choice is easy