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Old 11-16-2012, 08:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Switching to mini apes from stock

I have a 2011 FLHTP. I am some what mechanically inclined, probably just enough to get my self into trouble. I have already added a stereo and speakers. I am looking to switch bars, but am a little intimidated. I am sure there are those of you who have tackled this. I have a friend that has a set for a fair price and comes with the brake and clutch cables. My question is will the stock wires still work or am I looking at extending everything? Any help or suggestions for a newb?
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You will more then likely need to extend the wires. They sell kits on ebay.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Any one done this?
Any kits recommended? Any to shy away from?
Thanks for helping a newbie!
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I put some 12 in apes on my Street Glide and i had to extend everything. I purchased everything i needed from Direct Harley Parts. Send me your email addy and i'll send you some DIY info.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i installed 10" paul Yippes "BAGGER" bars" on my '09 tri-glide & the stock wireing was ok. just had to use a 10" TBY extension & a 4" over clutch cable. if you cut off a allen-wrench you can remove the trans cover with-out removeing the exhaust.
if you plan on "internal wireing" then don't get the APE brs , because the sharp bent
(90*) is too tight to get the TBY cable thru. i'm just under 6' tall, with a ruler under my arm pit to where the wrist hinges is 23". and i can lean back on the back rest & comfortably reach the handle bars. i just cut-off some metric allen wrench's & glued them in the appropriate shallow 1/4" sockets .it helps if you have some place to tie the inner fairing up to ( i used a rafter. ) not a hard task, just a couple of days working onn and off. on the new clutch "O", just lightly butter lube it with permatex non-harsning sealant & use only BLUE threadlocker . just search this & other sites for some good pictures as others have done this. my play-by-play on triketalk is gone as the site was hacked. try hd talking forume.

as i am r&r my t/g handlebars to 10" paul Yippes, heres what i,ve learned.
1. if you plan to R&R the riser bushings to polyurathane.
takes 3/4" 6 pt. shallow socket.
after you take off the outer fairing remove the left.
riser mount bole as you will have to turn the wheel full right to access the bolt
from inside the front of the fairing.
2. take out the radio. cut off a 1/4" (metric) allen wrench about 3" long
( to remove radio mount bolts.)
& glue into a 1/4" drive socket.do the same for a 3/16 allen wrench (metric) only 1" long
you will also need a 5/32 allen wrench.
3. buy a new tube of blue threadlocker.
4. as i am solo. park the bike under a ceiling truss, so you can tie a string to it
& hold the inner fairing up when you get it loose.
5. after you get the radio out you will see that if you remove both riser mount bolts
the handle bars fall free. so tie the bars up (keep them from falling on your tank. )
then you can remove the handlebars & risers as a assembly.
6. if you have to remove the ign. switch, make a ign. special tool. thats in the video.
this prevents numerous times removeing and installing the switch.
7. the hardest part is installing the chrome skirt on the front forks.
really fits tight. fought that for 2 hrs today & still didn't get it.

8 don't forget to grease the neck zerk. mine was dry when the bike was new . also w week later use kleenex to wipe out the excess grease.
also take apart all elec connections on the bike & put a dab of dielectrical grease in them. this prevents any chance of moisture
getting into them & causing corrossion. fuses too. hope you have changed out the tranny "syn "3 to a better gear lube like spectro or red line. leon

Last edited by brownfoxx1; 11-20-2012 at 06:13 PM. Reason: more info.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Waiting for winter to really settle in here in Michigan to tackle this. I am little more apprehensive about the swap after the feedback. I have purchased the bars. I am going with internal wiring, and the clutch and brake cables are braided stainless and will not be internal.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This video seems to go pretty quick. Any tips to help? Anything they skipped by that i should pay particular attention to?

I need to get service manual!
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1gfun View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ik73i...eature=related

This video seems to go pretty quick. Any tips to help? Anything they skipped by that i should pay particular attention to?

I need to get service manual!
Good video...i've seen it before. I sure wish this job could be done in 13 minutes. It does show a lot of the major steps though and gives you some idea of the overall task involved. They just leave out all the little details that always cost time. Just the simple task of removing the pins from the plastic connectors can be a real pain if you haven't done it before. Like i said, this is good 6-8 hour job even for someone that's done it before.

Tips? Make sure you protect all your paint when removing any brake lines. Dot4 fluid will eat through any paint quickly.
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2009 Street Glide
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2003 Heritage Softail Classic
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks Miles.

I am hoping for any and all tips. I know its going to take me at least two days. I am trying to get as much info as i can. Hoping anyone else can chime in and give some insight. Thanks again to everyone thus far. keep it coming!
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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A couple quick obvious tips.
Stagger your solder joints so they aren't all in the same spot when extending wires. When heating the shrink tubing, do so until a bit of the sealant goo beads out each end. Best of luck.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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What size bars where installed in that video?
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Here is my cycle smith 13" bars. Kinda wish I went with 16"s.

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Old 11-26-2012, 02:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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When you pull the wires from the plugs, do so one at a time and replace with the maching exstention wire outherwise you could lose track of what color wire goes were. Its eather that or draw a pic of the plug and which color wire goes were.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Too nerve racking for me ...I got cash to spend...let Harley do it and be responsible for the work...get something wrong and you are screwed...
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDeVon View Post
Too nerve racking for me ...I got cash to spend...let Harley do it and be responsible for the work...get something wrong and you are screwed...
Lol. I did my Dyna low rider that was not too bad, no faring. But with this ultra and TBW no way was I touching that and only 2/3 months old. Lol.
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