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Old 11-24-2012, 09:03 AM   #16 (permalink)
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My '10 Limited got the SE tuner and Dyno time, Vance and Hines Power Duals, and a Air Cleaner kit. It runs much cooler, feels like I got a stronger motor under me, and my mileage has stayed at the same 42-43 mpg that I had before the tune.
YMMV but I am a happy camper with these mods.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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no need to cut the pipe take it off and get a 1 icnh paddle bit 16 inchs long and drill it out,much easier and faster
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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These bikes run so lean from the factory that they are not optimal even stock. Any change in air flow (gutting the cat) is going to add to that lean condition, and even if the Delphi system can make some adjustment for the change, it is still too lean.

I have a gutted cat, SE air cleaner and Rinehart mufflers on mine with a Power Commander V. In addition to more power, no pinging and less heat, the throttle response is much smoother and the bike just runs better.

I have noticed very little difference in fuel mileage. I was getting 48 to 50 before, and now see 46 to 48. Wife has the same setup on her trike and is getting 38 to 42.

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Old 11-24-2012, 11:10 AM   #19 (permalink)
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if you gut the cat with free flowing mufflers you are riching your mixture somewhat by allowing fresh air into system, aka reversion.the o2 sensors sees this as lean and adds some fuel should be ok.even changing a/c should not have much effect.by you are very right that these bikes do run lean right out of the box.i running v-ieds and had to turn them down or lean it out alittle when i gutted the cat.
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Leave the stock air cleaner on and no need to retune...replace the headpipe with one of the three...Fullsac...FuelMoto...Vance&Hines...then your stock slipons will sound a lot better...don't like the look of the stock slipons then go with new but only with 2" baffels on a 103...
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:31 PM   #21 (permalink)
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2010 Electra Glide Classic with Jackpot 2-1-2 stainless headpipe, slip on free flowing mufflers, S.E. free flowing intake with polished back plate & a REAL K&N "oilable" element and Nightrider Xieds to richen it up a bit. No "retune" or big dollar tuner & runs great with more power, much cooler & great mileage!
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:51 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oldog97 View Post
2010 Electra Glide Classic with Jackpot 2-1-2 stainless headpipe, slip on free flowing mufflers, S.E. free flowing intake with polished back plate & a REAL K&N "oilable" element and Nightrider Xieds to richen it up a bit. No "retune" or big dollar tuner & runs great with more power, much cooler & great mileage!
what oldog 97 said!
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:15 AM   #23 (permalink)
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no need to cut the pipe take it off and get a 1 icnh paddle bit 16 inchs long and drill it out,much easier and faster
If you use a paddle bit instead of a coring bit, how do you get the guts out of the exhaust pipe? I was thinking about doing it with a coring bit.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:02 AM   #24 (permalink)
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If you use a paddle bit instead of a coring bit, how do you get the guts out of the exhaust pipe? I was thinking about doing it with a coring bit.
just go slow drilling and the drill will bite and bind once in awhile but it all breaks up quite nicely.i put a vacum cleaner on one end of the pipe to keep the dust down that stuff is not good to breath.just keep shaking and dumping it out.it will all come out i took my pipe and 02 sensors out and put pipe in vise did'nt take very long to do.,just hang onto the drill!
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:30 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I have a stock pipe with the converter cleaned out.cut a window out of the side and got all of it out and migged it back together.Ran it until my T-header arrived.

130 bucks and I'd ship it.

they use some pretty good adhesive to glue the thing in there,I didn't want to bore it out cause it would leave too much and then you'd still have the heat issue.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:41 AM   #26 (permalink)
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just go slow drilling and the drill will bite and bind once in awhile but it all breaks up quite nicely.i put a vacum cleaner on one end of the pipe to keep the dust down that stuff is not good to breath.just keep shaking and dumping it out.it will all come out i took my pipe and 02 sensors out and put pipe in vise did'nt take very long to do.,just hang onto the drill!
You can not remove it all if your're drilling it because you can only access the top portion of the joint on the header pipe, which is the rear. You're still going to have the bottom portion intact, which is the front. The front portion of the header has a bend in where it goes under the frame - can't access with a drill. You have to cut open a window, remove the guts and reweld the part you cut. See pic in post #11 of this thread.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:53 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oiler1 View Post
You can not remove it all if your're drilling it because you can only access the top portion of the joint on the header pipe, which is the rear. You're still going to have the bottom portion intact, which is the front. The front portion of the header has a bend in where it goes under the frame - can't access with a drill. You have to cut open a window, remove the guts and reweld the part you cut. See pic in post #11 of this thread.
i got every bit of my cat out by drilling just hold the drill bit at an angle and it's very clean inside.the cat just breaks up and comes out in pieces,done this on 4 bikes and the pipe is clean as a whisle
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:22 PM   #28 (permalink)
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get rid of the cat, get a new download put on it to richen it up. you'll see better performance, better mileage. getting 54 mpg at 70mph with cruise set on the interstate. just my 2 cents worth. just getting rid of the cat, the scoot still gonna run on the lean side.
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