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Old 08-26-2012, 10:30 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rmc115 View Post
sounds like low fuel pressure, the check valve hose in the tank rubs a hole in it bleeding off pressure causing a lean /dying condition. I have changed several. If they check fuel pressure it will show bleed down and low fuel pressure. Mike
Mike, Never thought of that.. Thanks. I'll let them know.
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
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They dealership called today, and said they couldn't get it to back fire and die.. Then the GM told the salesman that The pipes were like that when it left the dealership. It was not. Anyway. I'll be getting a friend of mine, who a lawyer and a state representative, to write a letter to Harley Davidson, and copy the Gm, and Owner.. I'll probably get a black V&H pipes, and a SERT, or a Power commander. It's a swap, I can do in the Garage. Except of course if I get a cert, it will have to be dyno'd. That will not be done at the dealership I bought it at. The thing is that I used to buy my cars, and trucks, at a dealership owned by the same guy as owns the harley shop. I hate finding a new place to buy vehicles.

Last edited by Rendell; 08-28-2012 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:31 PM   #33 (permalink)
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actually, I'll probably just ride it like I stole it, and enjoy the crap out of it.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:51 PM   #34 (permalink)
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OK, called and spoke to the GM, he was more than happy to speak with me about the bike. We talked about the pipe bluing, about the pop and die thing. I told him that I'd ride it home saturday, since that is the first time I'll get to make the 130 mile trip up there, and hope that Hurricane Isaac is gone past by then. I will ride it home either way. Wouldn't be the first time I rode through the leftovers of a Hurricane. But they are giving me a set of OEM take off slip-ons, and I'll make a decision from there what I want to do about the pipes. The Pop and die thing could have been leftover from the gas that sat in there for as long as it was at the dealership. If they couldn't make it do it they couldn't make it do it. The GM told me to ride it like I stole it, I have the warranty. He said that harleys like to be rode hard. I guess I'll do that. It's all fine with me. SO all is good that ends well.
So they are holding up to their reputation. So, if you are in Little Rock take exit 130 off I-30 and stop at Landers Harley, and see Tony Jones. He'll be happy to help you out. I recommend them, because in the end they stand behind their product and they will be there for you in three locations in central arkansas.. They have gained a customer, just as Landers Toyota has gained and maintained a customer for the last couple years.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:13 PM   #35 (permalink)
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If and when you decide to get your bike dyno'd, don't buy a SERT, Power Commander,.... until you talk to the person who is going to do the tune. He/She will have a favorite and one that they believe is best. That's the one you want to buy. Not so much because it's better than another but because it's the one your dyno guy knows how to use best.

That said, shop around for a good dyno guy - just because they own a dyno doesn't mean they know how to use it. My guy spends an average of two to three hours tuning a bike and that's not because he doesn't know what he's doing. I saw a thread on here a few weeks ago where everyone was making their recommendation for their favorite place based upon where they were located. You might look for that thread. My prediction is that before it's over you won't be happy until you get your bike properly tuned for whatever parts and pieces you end up running. After that it'll run better than if you stole it.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:15 PM   #36 (permalink)
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If and when you decide to get your bike dyno'd, don't buy a SERT, Power Commander,.... until you talk to the person who is going to do the tune. He/She will have a favorite and one that they believe is best. That's the one you want to buy. Not so much because it's better than another but because it's the one your dyno guy knows how to use best.

That said, shop around for a good dyno guy - just because they own a dyno doesn't mean they know how to use it. My guy spends an average of two to three hours tuning a bike and that's not because he doesn't know what he's doing. I saw a thread on here a few weeks ago where everyone was making their recommendation for their favorite place based upon where they were located. You might look for that thread. My prediction is that before it's over you won't be happy until you get your bike properly tuned for whatever parts and pieces you end up running. After that it'll run better than if you stole it.
I agree whole heartedly. I have always done my own pipes on any cruiser I've owned, as well as intake. I'm partial to the Power commander. That said the Dyno guy that all my Harley riding buddys use likes the SERT. I will consult with him when/if I decide to dyno it. I have not decided what headers, Muffs and tuner I will be using. For now, I'm going to leave the bike the way it is and drive it like I stole it, enjoying the chit out of it. Once I've run a few tanks through it, giving the injectors sometime to clean up after what seems to be a a very long set with the same gas in it at the dealership. I would be worthless to dyno it with dirty, shellaced injectors. It will give me time to compare opinions of what would be the best parts, and the resumes of thoses giving the info.
I do appreciate all the suggestion everyone here has given. I will also, consider that I intend to keep this 3 to 4 years before trading it for a new one.
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:37 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Picked it up Yesterday, rode it 130 miles home. There were 60+ miles put on by the dealership. It is running fine now and they claim they didn't do anything. Rode 120 miles today. I calculate the MPG yesterday, it was right at 37. Today right at 44. I guessing that the bike had sat for sometime at the dealership, and the gas soured, shelac'd the injectors. The lucas oil injector cleaner that I put in it seems to have done some cleaning. The good gas has probably helped a bit as well. Either way, I'm happy with it, and will leave it be, and ride the crap out of it.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:10 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Sounds like you might be ready to hook up and burn some twisties soon!


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Old 09-06-2012, 09:23 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Sounds like you might be ready to hook up and burn some twisties soon!


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I am now, Brother. I did about 500-600 miles of that last weekend, and want some more.. When you going to be ready? Your butt is probably just getting unsore from that Kentucky last week right?
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:46 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I am now, Brother. I did about 500-600 miles of that last weekend, and want some more.. When you going to be ready? Your butt is probably just getting unsore from that Kentucky last week right?
We just arrived home around 4 pm today. Timed it right and missed all the storms! Need to change the oil and so forth, and then I will be ready again.


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Old 11-09-2012, 09:15 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I hate to bring this up again but... It seemed to be great for a while. I did figure out that the issue is electrical. How did I figure that out. Well, yesterday I rode to work and when I hit the start switch at the end of the day.it was a little brisk, about 55 degrees... It popped and didn't start, then I hit the start again, and it started but the radio was going bat $hit crazy. Like I had it on radio, and it would power down, and then power back up, then go to aux, the back to radio and work fine for a block, then switch back and forth from aux to radio.... Then about 5 block into the ride home it was fine. I believe there is a cold solder somewhere, or bad solder somewhere in the electrical because it has done the pop and not start a couple times in the last few days when it has been cool, or cold. However, today it started and ran like a champ all the way to work, and it was about 40 degrees when I started it.. I think I'm going to make an appointment for it because I noticed this morning that the Dunlop on the back has an about a 1.5 inch split in the tread. That needs to be fixed asap..
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Other than that is very stock.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:54 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Road King Cole is reading this now saying WTF is this? Road King Cole is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Quote:
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I hate to bring this up again but... It seemed to be great for a while. I did figure out that the issue is electrical. How did I figure that out. Well, yesterday I rode to work and when I hit the start switch at the end of the day.it was a little brisk, about 55 degrees... It popped and didn't start, then I hit the start again, and it started but the radio was going bat $hit crazy. Like I had it on radio, and it would power down, and then power back up, then go to aux, the back to radio and work fine for a block, then switch back and forth from aux to radio.... Then about 5 block into the ride home it was fine. I believe there is a cold solder somewhere, or bad solder somewhere in the electrical because it has done the pop and not start a couple times in the last few days when it has been cool, or cold. However, today it started and ran like a champ all the way to work, and it was about 40 degrees when I started it.. I think I'm going to make an appointment for it because I noticed this morning that the Dunlop on the back has an about a 1.5 inch split in the tread. That needs to be fixed asap..
Make sure it is not just a bad battery connection first....

good luck!

rkc
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:09 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Make sure it is not just a bad battery connection first....

good luck!

rkc

Will do. Thanks.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:42 PM   #44 (permalink)
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So the end result is that there was a short in the wiring in the fairing, some motor gadget to do with the fuel delivery system (?) just going on what I was told, and the front break master cylinder, was leaking and replaced. The short was fixed Not covered by warranty but ate by the dealer. The motor thing was covered by the warranty and the dealer ate the deductible. It's ready once I get a set of tires on it.

Update: In the end the Service manager accused me of just wanting something for nothing. a;; I've ever wanted was the bike as it was promised when I bought it.
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Other than that is very stock.

Last edited by Rendell; 12-20-2012 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:17 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Ok, so, Sunday I rode to Plana texas, about 265 miles each way. Nice ride. Left out in a drizzle at about 48 - 50 degrees for about 100 miles.. Bike handled like the roads were dry, even with the dunlop crap tires.
Anyway, about 200 in the motor pops as I pull away from a stop sign and dies. It restarts and everything seems fine until I turn and set the cruise. The cruise won't set, i wiggle the control switch and it sets at 65, then moments later the motor revs, and it winds out and I hit the rear brake to release it. Then It won't set since. It seems to be in the right side hand controls, since it set with a wiggle of the switch. I can't go 500 mile round trip without something screwing up. I've been stewing about it since Monday. I don't how to progress from here. I'm really thinking that I'd like to lemon it and get in a new ultra classic.. I'm really loosing faith in the bike and the dealership. and suggestions would be greatly appreciated..

Oh yeah, it popped and died 3 more times on the way back to Arkansas..
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