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Old 07-24-2012, 01:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You'll likely enjoy the new sound and more low end torque!
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:06 PM   #17 (permalink)
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That's what I did....pretty slick huhh............
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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nice work on the welding

had mine drilled out with a coring bit. Not a thorough as the welding job, but they did get a big section of it straight thru the middle took and it took less than one hour about $75.00. the coring bit is about the diameter of the exhaust pipe entering from the header pipes and is visible from the muffler looking in
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Old 08-09-2012, 10:05 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Pretty much the same thing I did about a year and half ago and never had any issues with it. Only I cut mine in half and removed the cat and tig it back together. Just recently swap it out for the power duals and cant really tell any difference in the two. Anyone looking for a head pipe?
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Old 08-09-2012, 10:53 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FL8X View Post
Pretty much the same thing I did about a year and half ago and never had any issues with it. Only I cut mine in half and removed the cat and tig it back together. Just recently swap it out for the power duals and cant really tell any difference in the two. Anyone looking for a head pipe?
Where do the O2 sensors go in that pipe? On my 2012 they are about where you guys are taking out the cat. So they must have moved the cats and put them in the headers ahead of the union? I might be interested if it would work on my bike.
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:09 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRazzo View Post
Where do the O2 sensors go in that pipe? On my 2012 they are about where you guys are taking out the cat. So they must have moved the cats and put them in the headers ahead of the union? I might be interested if it would work on my bike.
Should be in the same spot, just before the cat.
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:18 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Tim...I'm interested! How much?

PM me.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:01 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FL8X View Post
Pretty much the same thing I did about a year and half ago and never had any issues with it. Only I cut mine in half and removed the cat and tig it back together. Just recently swap it out for the power duals and cant really tell any difference in the two. Anyone looking for a head pipe?
Did you use a different map after removing the cat?
If so,is it the same map as for the power duals?
I have a international model flht 2010 and in europ there is no info.
All advice is welkom.
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I wanted to remove the cat from my 2012 Ultra Limited but I didn't want to take the exhaust apart much.
How did a cat get stuck in your exhaust pipe anyway? Seriously, good write -up and pics!
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:20 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teut View Post
Did you use a different map after removing the cat?
If so,is it the same map as for the power duals?
I have a international model flht 2010 and in europ there is no info.
All advice is welkom.
I did use a map for the power dual after I did the cut out, its about the closest thing to it with no problems. I did have it tuned not to long ago to see if I could get some mileage back, and it wasn't too far off. Found out the mileage problem is me, ha, so guess Ill live with that. The best thing about it, beside the sound and a little performance gain, was getting rid of the heat from under the seat.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:57 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Do you have to get emissions tested in Arkansas? Here we get tested once the bike is over 5 years old.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:26 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info,FL8X.It is a great help in making a decision about the pipes.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:38 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plongson View Post
It's actually where you place the welding ground cable. The correct answer is to clamp it ON THE PIECE THAT IS BEING WELDED and as close as reasonably possible to the weld. Not on the bars, wheels, frame, or engine if working on the pipe but ON THE PIPE, and the current will travel between the two leads and not through bearings or electronics.
" It's actually where you place the welding ground cable. The correct answer is to clamp it ON THE PIECE THAT IS BEING WELDED and as close as reasonably possible to the weld. Not on the bars, wheels, frame, or engine if working on the pipe but ON THE PIPE, and the current will travel between the two leads and not through bearings or electronics."

Hopefully .... I've seen this NOT WORK in several instances ( on a car ) and it the damage was severe .... It's ALWAYS BEST to remove the parts being welded from the vehicle.
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:22 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Do you have to get emissions tested in Arkansas? Here we get tested once the bike is over 5 years old.
No testing or even vehicle inspections here - nothing.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:52 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Thanks for the post...
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