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Old 09-13-2010, 10:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Clutch adjustment on side stand

The manual says to set the bike upright and level before removing the derby cover for clutch pack adjustment.

Since I don't have a lift or center stand, I was wondering if I can adjust my clutch pack with the bike on the side stand without dumping primary fluid or other issues.

What do y'all think?
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If it was properly filled, I'll bet that you wont loose any fluid.
ANY TAKERS??

Just so you don't do the adjustment twice.....turn in till "lightly seated" means LIGHTLY SEATED.
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hopefully you won't lose any fluid (you shouldn't but it might be close), just in case, put a 2 x 4 under your kickstand before you pull the cover.
If you're workin' on hard, flat ground, the lean angle is plenty and there's no chance of the bike fallin' over to the right...
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Generally speakin, the inside the primary clutch adjustment comes with the 5k service, so it aught to be empty when you do it. Adjustments between 5k's shouldnt be necessary, but can be accomplished at the middle nut without bothering with the primary adjustment.
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I have one of these and works great for clutch adjustments and refilling the primary.

http://www.lean-right.com/
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Black Jack

This is one of the best $100 dollars (it was $100 when I bought mine several years ago) I've spent on my bike. I like it better than the traditional lifts because it doesn't block access to the drain plugs and you don't have to lean over it where the traditional lifts stick out on one side. It's plenty stable for jobs such as changing a tire. It's surprisingly stable. I use mine on the concrete floor without a front wheel block.

The Greg Smith Equipment link below (they don't pay the shipping - shipping is free from JCWhitney) has a YouTube movie showing the various frame adapter pieces that come with it.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Bl...000-p/tpbj.htm

If you plan to continue to do some of your own service, you'll never regret investing in one of these.
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
The manual says to set the bike upright and level before removing the derby cover for clutch pack adjustment.

Since I don't have a lift or center stand, I was wondering if I can adjust my clutch pack with the bike on the side stand without dumping primary fluid or other issues.

What do y'all think?
You will not lose a drop. While the derby cover is off, look for the fluid level. It should be at the bottom of the clutch pack according to the picture in the manual. If the fluid is high enough to flow out of the cover, then it is too high and will effect the way the clutch engages. Remove the cover, adjust the clutch, and adjust the fluid level to a point at the bottom of the clutch pack, reinstall cover, go for a ride.
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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is you clutch working how you like it? if it is don't touch it.
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcomes View Post
This is one of the best $100 dollars (it was $100 when I bought mine several years ago) I've spent on my bike. I like it better than the traditional lifts because it doesn't block access to the drain plugs and you don't have to lean over it where the traditional lifts stick out on one side. It's plenty stable for jobs such as changing a tire. It's surprisingly stable. I use mine on the concrete floor without a front wheel block.

The Greg Smith Equipment link below (they don't pay the shipping - shipping is free from JCWhitney) has a YouTube movie showing the various frame adapter pieces that come with it.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Bl...000-p/tpbj.htm

If you plan to continue to do some of your own service, you'll never regret investing in one of these.
Very nice looking product. If I didn't have a lift already, I would seriously consider one of these for my bike.
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input! The dealer installed a new clutch free of charge less than 1000 miles ago due to the metal disks being warped (couldn't find neutral) when I bought it.

After a road trip from Hattiesburg to Port St Joe, FL over Labor Day weekend, I have noticed that the friction zone has moved to the end of the lever travel, right before I let go of the lever. It used to be closer in the middle of the lever travel. Anyway, I figure it just needs adjusting.
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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set the kick stand on a 2 x 4 it will be level enough not to spill any oil.
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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wich way do you turn the screw to lightly seat it to adjust it... ive put on 20,000 and havent adjusted it yet.. noticed yesturday that taking off in first it seems to shudder almost like a new clutch. no shuddering at any other speeds or engaugment
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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wich way do you turn the screw to lightly seat it to adjust it... ive put on 20,000 and havent adjusted it yet.. noticed yesturday that taking off in first it seems to shudder almost like a new clutch. no shuddering at any other speeds or engaugment
It is a little more involved than just turning the adjuster to remove the free play.
1. Find the adjuster in the cable, front of motor alog frame down tubes.

2. Screw the fitting together to create play in the clutch lever.

3. Remove derby cover and break lock nut lose on center of clutch.

4. Adjust the center adjuster out to put a free plat in the adjuster.

5. Withe the lock nut backed off, turn the center adjuster in by hand until it just contacts the clutch, you will feel the play or gap go away.

6. Hold the center adjuster and tighten the lock nut, making sure you do not turn the center adjuster as you do so.

7. Go back to the cable adjuster and adjust about a strong 1/8 play between the lever and the stop as you squeese the lever and then tighten the lock nut on the cable adjuster. Slide the rubber boot back.

Hope this helps.

If the fluid is too high in the Primary it will effect how the clutch grabs. Should be at the bottom of the clutch, no higher.
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It won't spill. But I do suggest getting a lift.

I don't do all my maintanence at the same time. I may change fluid one night, do something the other, and something else another.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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shouldnt i got about 28 oz r so in their... i think i fill with bike straight up... it just started doining it so i think i need to adjust .. thank you for the tips.
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sc intake kit
vance and hinse ho pro pipe 2-1
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tc88 adj ignition
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