HID Headlights

[iclick]

Originally Posted by Mattman22033

If you starter switch fails you can't start your bike...unless you push start it.
If your run/stop switch fails, you can't start your bike...unless it fails and stays in the on postion.
If your ignition switch fails, you can't start your bike.

When was the last time you had one of these switches fail, not saying that they can't, but I never have. Plus I will have the Kuryayn driving lights so I will have some forward lighting to be able to ride with.

Excuse me, but didn't you say that you wanted to wire it through the accessory switch? Go back and read your message I was replying to. I've altready had a cruise switch fail, which is identical to the accessory switch except it has "cruise" stenciled on it and the LED is a different color. The internal structure is the same. My point was that by running the headlight thru the ACC switch you are adding one more variable to the reliability equation.

[Mattman22033]

Originally Posted by iclick

Excuse me, but didn't you say that you wanted to wire it through the accessory switch? Go back and read your message I was replying to. I've altready had a cruise switch fail, which is identical to the accessory switch except it has "cruise" stenciled on it and the LED is a different color. The internal structure is the same. My point was that by running the headlight thru the ACC switch you are adding one more variable to the reliability equation.

And if your ignition switch fails...NOTHING WORKS...and that variable means you call a tow truck...LOL.

The reliability equation comes into play for all switches but I do see your point and I will discuss it with my indy.

[CRAZY_TRAIN]

Originally Posted by Pop's Cycle

I put this on a month ago and I've already ordered a stock headlamp to replace it with.

The first headlamp fell apart inside. I put a new one in and after a week, it would blink a few times and then blow the fuse. I haven't had a chance to troubleshoot the problem on the second but I'm so unhappy with it and so confident that it will continue to have problems, that I would recommend against this H.I.D. kit.

Luckily, Kuryakyn is really good about replacing faulty parts, but about your bike blowing fuses, sounds like theres a problem with your bike or the wiring from the ballast to the plug is not correct, ive installed 3 no problems at all

[Monstermile]

Originally Posted by iclick

These 7" E-code headlights are generic options for MCs and cars, and there is no downside to this dual-compatibility. Based on previous experience with E-code H4 lights the pattern is every bit up to my expectations, and IMO far superior to the non-fluted stock HD lights. They don't look as cool--more like any other flat, fluted headlight rather than the curved, non-fluted HDs made by North American Lighting--but I doubt if anyone will ever notice. If they do I really don't care, as I'll take functionality over bling any day, especially this much difference. I hope I'm not over-hyping these headlights, but I do feel they made a major difference for me. Note that I used the same 80/100w bulb on both headlights, so the bulbs weren't the difference. I would recommend 80/100w bulbs with attention to the caveats I mentioned in my first post. The 80w low-beam may tax 15A fuses (or breakers on older bikes) when high-output passing lamps are used, as I found out on my old RK. I doubt if they would be a problem on bikes equipped with 25-30w passing lamps, though. My SG has no passing lamps so the 80w output is no problem.



I've never run HIDs on a car or MC, so I can't offer a comparison, but the cost and complexity would keep me from going that route. If you buy E-code headlights I hope you'll give us some feedback on the difference.

So what does the fluted lens have to do with light output and dispersion??? I have always understood that the difference in e-spec and NA lighting was solely in the reflector. That the facets inside the reflector and the way they are arranged caused the light pattern to extend and spread further outward.

As far as the bulb what brand are you running??? I am little leary of something as bright as an 80/100. Don't want the added heat to cause damage or discoloring.

[Pop's Cycle]

Originally Posted by CRAZY_TRAIN

... about your bike blowing fuses, sounds like theres a problem with your bike or the wiring from the ballast to the plug is not correct, ive installed 3 no problems at all

Yes I decided that had to be the case as well.

When I installed the light, I removed the stock connector that the stock headlight plugs into. I had wrapped the connectors in electrical tape but apparently, that's not enough to insulate them as they were the cause of the short.

[kslg]

Could you pop a 100/80w or a 100/55w in a stock '08 headlight without overheating the wires or the housing?

[iclick]

Originally Posted by kslg

Could you pop a 100/80w or a 100/55w in a stock '08 headlight without overheating the wires or the housing?

I used 80/100, 90/100, and 55/100w bulbs in my '96 RK for nine years and never had a problem with the high-beam circuit. OTOH, a friend with a '98 Softail fried his connector using an 80/100, but this process took a few years. Another friend with a BMW had the same problem. Keep in mind the Softail Custom is designed to run only one 55/60w bulb with no passing lamps, so its wire gauge and connector may be different than an FLH. In both cases the answer was to install a high-heat connector from Auto Zone, but there's more to it than that.

I've run an 80/100w bulb in my '07 SG and the connector looks like the day I took delivery, just like my old RK--i.e. no problems--and I run my high-beams at all times during the day. I also use a modulator (high-beam only), which reduces heat somewhat since it pulsates at 20/100% 4x/sec. As for wiring, if you'll look at the way most FLH bikes are wired, the passing lamps are basically spliced directly into the low-beam circuit, which makes it obvious that it is designed for 105w capacity (55w for low-beam, and 50w [25+25w] for passing lamps). I can't tell the gauge of any HD wiring since HD doesn't publish this info, at least not in the service manual. However, the outside diameter of the wire has the same spec as 16-gauge wire. What's more, the high-beam wire is the same diameter as the low-beam, so I assume it is the same gauge rating. Making this assumption the high-beam circuit should be capable of at least 105w, so an ??/100w bulb should cause no problems with the high-beam circuit.

OTOH, I think adding more to the low-beam circuit may pose a potential problem, as you could then be exceeding its designed capacity. On my old RK I added some 37.5w passing lamps (CCI #15085) using an 80/100w headlight bulb. This meant I had 155w of output (~13A) on the low-beam circuit, and that caused my 15A breaker to trip frequently. The answer was to install a standard automotive relay, which fixed the problem. In that way the low-beam circuit only acted as a low-amperage switch while the main power was supplied by a direct link to the battery.

What this boils down to is that IMO the high-beam circuit can easily handle a 100w bulb. If you run passing lamps, as most FLHs do, it might be wise to either use a 55/100w headlight bulb or re-wire the passing lamps using a relay, especially if you use high-output passing lamps. OTOH an extra 2A probably won't cause any problems at all, although there may be a small restriction in light output if the wiring isn't up to the task of flowing that much current. It's like trying to flow 10 gal./hr. of water through a pipe designed for 9 gal./hr.--it can only flow 9 gal. My SG has no passing lamps so I run 80/100w, and so far so good.

[iclick]

Originally Posted by Monstermile

So what does the fluted lens have to do with light output and dispersion??? I have always understood that the difference in e-spec and NA lighting was solely in the reflector. That the facets inside the reflector and the way they are arranged caused the light pattern to extend and spread further outward.

I'm making the assumption that HD's use of non-fluted lenses is mostly a cosmetic decision. I wasn't happy with the pattern of the headlight on my '07 SG, which didn't work nearly as well as the Bosch 7" fluted lenses on my '96 RK, and the Hella E-code provided a major improvement on the SG for a small price. It may not look as cool, but I doubt if anyone will notice, and my bike isn't a show bike anyway. Like everyone I appreciate cosmetic appeal, but it isn't the only consideration and there's a limit to the sacrifice I'll accept to achieve it. Lighting isn't an area I'm willing to compromise on.

As far as the bulb what brand are you running??? I am little leary of something as bright as an 80/100. Don't want the added heat to cause damage or discoloring.

I've run Hella 80/100w bulbs in both my old RK and the SG. You can get these for <$10 from Susquahanna Motorsports, which is the same vendor that sells the E-code lamps. I just ordered seven 80/100w from them for myself (spares) and three friends, all of whom have been running high-output headlight bulbs for some time.

See my recent post about heat, current capacity, etc. Comments are welcome.

[kslg]

Great info., I've been trying to find out exactly that for a while re: wiring gauge, expected capacity, etc.

I don't run passing lamps on my SG, so I'm not worried about exceeding wattage.

Burning up a connector could be some resistance at the contacts.

Maybe it would help to scrub the contacts with contact cleaner, then put on some dialectric grease before connecting it?

Using the stock H-D headlight, how much difference do you see going to the 100/80w bulb?

[Dogbreath]

On the 06 ultra the passing lights shut off when you flip the high beams on. there shouldn't be any problems using 100 watt bulb

[DR. V-TWIN]

We run the Kuryakyn HID kit on our 2009 Street Glides and they work very well during the day just as good as they do at night. Drivers really see you coming. We noticed that A LOT less people pull out in front of us or cut us off after installing the Kuryakyn HID kit. That in itself is well worth it!

Another reason why the Kuryakyn kit is one of the best on the market is they are manufactured by Sylvania and carry U.S. DOT approval. Their kit is the only U.S. DOT approved HID kits available on the market.

Kuryakyn also stands behind these HID kits and will replace them no questions asked if any issues arise.

We can post a pic of it lit so you can see what they look like.

We have them on sale at: $449.99 SHIPPED!

[HogRidr60]

Originally Posted by WVBartMan

I have a 2009 Road King and was thinking about replacing the stock headlight bulb with HID units. Has anyone replaced their stock headlights with HID Lights? What was your opinion of the upgrade, cost, did you do it yourself, where did you purchase the HID unit, etc?

I appreciate your comments.

I have an 2007 Ultra and would be happy to share my upgrade with you but my unit and others, I have seen will NOT fit in the headlight shell. I mounted my 'stuff' in my fairing, so if you have any type of fairing, I can help.

I didn't buy Harley because I ONLY had to pay about $300 and mine is actually HIGH and LOW beams HID.

Let me know.

The change in light output is great though and worth the cost. Even daytime they see me coming without blinding anyone at night.

[elvacar]

HID Headlight Modulator Design

We have been working on an aircraft HID modulator and thought we'd outfit our Harleys

HID can be modulated (finally) without bulb degradation

http://www.youtube.com/user/preciseflightOR

let me know what you think