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04-04-2008, 07:47 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Watertown, MA
Posts: 430
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Intermittant Engine Light
I have a 99 RK Classic, fuel injected, recently bought it. Was running poorly, started hard, wouldn't idle, etc. and the engine light came on alot. Brought it to a trusted local mechanic, I like him, he's been around for years. After working on it he said he needed to replace 2 sensors (crank and cam) and cleared out the stored codes. Its now running fine, however the engine light still comes on and off at different times. I was anxious to the get bike back (was there a while) so he said the engine light coming on and off was the only remaining issue. He said it would take him a while to trace it down however the bike is all set otherwise, that it should run fine. Basically he's not a big fan of the pre-2002 FI systems, he said they were problematic. Anyone encounter anything like this before with the light coming on and off? I have the bike now but next time I need something done I'll have him continue to trace down what is causing the engine light to come on and off.
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04-05-2008, 10:35 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Cat Square (near Charlotte)
Posts: 1,667
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I was a tech from '03 through '07, and we HATED seeing that year bike, because the EFI *WAS* a pain in the butt.
The senior tech could sometimes do wonders, but you REALLY have to know what you're doing with it.
There's another thread on here about converting to a carb. I tell you, it's a heck of a lot easier to tune a carb (many techs can do that), and in the long run, I think you'd be happier.
Just something to think about.
__________________
Well... butter my butt and call me a biscuit
ChopperDude
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04-05-2008, 08:44 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Watertown, MA
Posts: 430
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About how much would it cost to have a mechanic convert a EFI bike to a carb?
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04-06-2008, 07:34 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 253
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One thing you might want to look at first is the connector (4 terminal round) that connects the CKP and the Stator, near the voltage regulator. Just follow the wires to the connector. They get full of oil that wicks down the wiring inside of the conduit and fills the connector up with oil. Clean it out with parts cleaner and reconnect it. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear the codes and ride.
Not saying this is the problem but this issue has caused quite a few intermitant MIL conditions.
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04-06-2008, 02:51 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Watertown, MA
Posts: 430
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Ok, just checked for the codes and got them. When going through it I went through 10 readings, 7 were clear but 3 had codes. At the end it displayed "CAL 03".
Here are the codes I found, can anyone help with what they mean?
For the 2nd readings: D025E
For the 6th readings: D065E
For the 10th readings: D105E
All of them had an additional character on the end, it was like a capital "E" without the top bar. Like and "L" with a dash in the middle. Any ideas?
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04-06-2008, 04:08 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,661
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2001 H-D Electronic Diag Manual shows code 25 as rear coil code. I do not see listings for the other codes mentioned.
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04-07-2008, 08:25 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Cat Square (near Charlotte)
Posts: 1,667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevdog
About how much would it cost to have a mechanic convert a EFI bike to a carb?
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Hey dawg... I didn't read through all the posts, but here is the thread I referred you to, there is another link in there that is heavily references. Apparently, LOTS of people have done this conversion, and they all seem to be very happy they did.
I see lots of people giving advice, and it's possible that you can get it running well... but it's fairly well established that the Magnetti Marelli wasn't HlDs best choice of EFI systems. Very problematic to fix once having troubles.
http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/to...carb-swap.html
__________________
Well... butter my butt and call me a biscuit
ChopperDude
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04-08-2008, 06:32 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Watertown, MA
Posts: 430
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Ok, I went and read my service manual and realized that I checked the codes incorrectly. I just "correctly" checked them and its coming back with one code, 42, which is for the Camshaft Position Sensor. I know both the Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors were just replaced. When I took it for a ride the engine light would come on for a while, off for a while, etc.
Any ideas?
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04-08-2008, 08:48 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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FNG :)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pacific North West
Posts: 20
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Are you still running a chain driven cam, if so I would be looking into having it checked. You are saying that the light comes and goes as you are running down the road? The code is saying that the cam is out of position. IMHO if my ride had over 30k on the OEM cam, and was throwing a cam code I would trailer it to the dealer. Just my 2 cents.
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04-08-2008, 10:24 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Watertown, MA
Posts: 430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black02Ultra
Are you still running a chain driven cam, if so I would be looking into having it checked. You are saying that the light comes and goes as you are running down the road? The code is saying that the cam is out of position. IMHO if my ride had over 30k on the OEM cam, and was throwing a cam code I would trailer it to the dealer. Just my 2 cents.
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It was replaced with an Andrews 203 a couple years ago.
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