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Old 01-24-2013, 06:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The carb may not be able to send a code but by it messing it it will cause the bike to not run correctly which will. Just the other week my check engine light came on in my car. The code said bad o2 sensor but instead of replacing it I just cleared the code and it hasn't shown back up. Not saying it isn't going bad but that something else may have caused the engine light to come on.

As long as you keep track where each bolt/screw goes by making a drawing of the carb and placing the parts in their spots it shouldn't take you but a half hour to disassemble the carb. You will probably spend more time on getting the carb off than taking it apart.

Both jets should be marked for their proper size. I would say a 42-45 for slow and a 170-180 for the main.

You seem a little hesitant to work on it... if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself find a friend who has? If you are somewhat mechanically inclined and get the manual you should have no problem.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:01 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RK05 View Post
The carb may not be able to send a code but by it messing it it will cause the bike to not run correctly which will. Just the other week my check engine light came on in my car. The code said bad o2 sensor but instead of replacing it I just cleared the code and it hasn't shown back up. Not saying it isn't going bad but that something else may have caused the engine light to come on.

As long as you keep track where each bolt/screw goes by making a drawing of the carb and placing the parts in their spots it shouldn't take you but a half hour to disassemble the carb. You will probably spend more time on getting the carb off than taking it apart.

Both jets should be marked for their proper size. I would say a 42-45 for slow and a 170-180 for the main.

You seem a little hesitant to work on it... if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself find a friend who has? If you are somewhat mechanically inclined and get the manual you should have no problem.
Hey RKO, thanks for the info and you hit the nail on the head: I'm hesitant to wrench on the carb myself. I have experience working on Jetski (Mikuni) carbs and single barrel stuff on my old truck, but none on the CV-type. To be honest it makes me uncomfortable because I'm concerned that once I take it apart I may change settings that will limit my ability to ride the bike at all, or rather that would require me to have to tow my Sportster back to the dealer.

My game plan is to try the CPS that I ordered (which I know how to replace and can easily tackle in my garage) before I head to the carb. My reasoning is simple: I only paid $26 for the part (and in this case the seller assured me it's returnable should it not work out) and it's an easy fix.

I know that the carb is more than likely the root of the issue and I'll need to take a look at it once the problem reappears (post-CPS replacement). I'll have to bite that bullet and take it off, replace the jets, and then look adjust the settings; call me lazy, I'm just looking for the easiest fix!

Thanks again guys!
-Sean
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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sounds like you blew out the blockage on the primary...but maybe more crap in there..easy job to clean the carb and jets....also the bike prob ran lean and hotter and might have instigated the cps problem that might be in the making...make sure the air cleaner is good to go.....45 pri ,180 main is in the ball park...also shimming the needle...many websites to learn to trick it out....do it once and youll be back in there 50 times getting every horse.
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:37 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Try putting in the new CPS first and if that doesn't take care of it pull the bottom of the carb off. Its only four screws if I remember right. Then spray the hell out of the carb from the bottom up with carb cleaner to get out anything especially the hole for the slow jet.

Put the bottom back on and see what happens.

Good luck!
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hey guys, just a quick update: I rode for about an hour today, despite the brutal cold, without incident. I had a great cruise around town and say no sign of the symptoms I had previously saw. The bike came to adequate temperature and idled flawlessly at every stop, including traffic.

My only replacement was.....the crank position sensor.

I can't say for sure that it was the CPS and not the fact that I added fresh fuel, etc. but I can say it is running smoothly as of now!

Thanks again for all the input and I'll update this thread again in a few weeks I case the performance changes
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:38 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Just wanted to give a quick update (as I said I would).....

I've been riding now for the past few weeks and it would appear as if the problem with bogging is now gone.

I did have a mechanic take a look at the old CPS and verify that it was bad after testing, so it looks to have been the cause of my issue.

Thanks again to all that helped out!

See you on the road...

Sean
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
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06 Sportster bogging and almost dies

I had almost the same issues with a fuel injected Softail, the CPS solved the problem as well.
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