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Old 09-13-2009, 11:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Moving the coil

2000 fxst.( carb ) Moved the horn to the downtubes. Now the coil is going to the horn mount. With the coil there, it causes the plug wires to be crossed. Was told by two mechs that when I splice the coil harness wires to extend the harness, I can switch the outside wires and the coil will fire correctly with the plug wires not crossed. Just looking for more conformation on this before I start cuttin. Thanks
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Old 09-14-2009, 08:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Never heard that. My wires are crossed and I'm OK with that.
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Old 09-14-2009, 01:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm sure I read it on this forum somewhere also. Did a search but couldn't find it again. I'm sure someone will step in and let me know.
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Old 09-14-2009, 01:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Assuming it is a carb'd bike (3 wire coil) then it is correct that you can swap the 2 outside wires. The center wire is the common wire and each outside wire fires one side of the coil.
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Old 09-18-2009, 02:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Got it done. Switched the wires and it works as advertised. Also took the ugly seat post out. Thanks for the help. Mark
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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10:10,

Seatpost being that vertical post in front of the oil tank? I've got mine stripped to the frame and was thinking about leaving that out when I start putting her back together.

Does it actually serve a purpose? Any negatives from leaving it out?

I'm also planning on relocating the coil like you have but my bike is FI. Wonder if the wire trick is the same?
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLSTCI124" View Post
10:10,

Seatpost being that vertical post in front of the oil tank? I've got mine stripped to the frame and was thinking about leaving that out when I start putting her back together.

Does it actually serve a purpose? Any negatives from leaving it out?

I'm also planning on relocating the coil like you have but my bike is FI. Wonder if the wire trick is the same?
I had more than one Harley tech tell me "off the record" that the seat post just holds the coil. It was a pain to get out but when I did I couldn't see how it would be strong enough to do anything else but hold the coil. On your FI bike I'm not sure which wires to switch. I think there are more wires in that harness. In the service manual it looks like there are 4 wires in your harness. Looks like one says front and one says rear. I would think if you switched those it would work, but I'm just a parts changer so don't take my guess as the truth. I asked several real mechanics before I started cutting, so you should probably do the same.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The seatpost does nothing but hold the coil.
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The seatpost does nothing but hold the coil.
Not anymore it don't.
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Old 10-01-2009, 05:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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When I installed a 127 into my Fat boy, I had to cut off the coil mounts that were on the seat post. The rear cylinder would hit the mount.
I moved the coil to in between the cylinders now. I like much better and never used the horn at all anyway.
I do have ideas of using the horn button for a nitrous switch though. Hehehehe!
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Old 10-02-2009, 02:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNowhereman View Post
When I installed a 127 into my Fat boy, I had to cut off the coil mounts that were on the seat post. The rear cylinder would hit the mount.
I moved the coil to in between the cylinders now. I like much better and never used the horn at all anyway.
I do have ideas of using the horn button for a nitrous switch though. Hehehehe!
I extended the wires and put the horn on the downtubes. Just waiting for the next swap meet to pick up a round Sporty horn. If I could figure out how to put pics up I would.
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