I've gotten a couple of PMs about my coil & horn relocation, so I figured I'd post the directions here. I did both of them, the tank lift, and the pushrod tubes and tappet blocks at the same time.
I used
this tank lift, and
this motor mount. There are others available, but I can vouch for the quality of these two.
First thing you need to do is drain the tank and remove the crossover tube. The kit says that a 2" tank lift will work with the stock crossover, and it technically does, however my nearly-5 year old crossover line ruptured about 4 hours after we finished the job dumping 3-1/2 gallons of hi-test all over my shed. You don't have to remove the tank (I didn't), but it would make the whole job easier, especially if you're doing the tappet blocks. The directions for the lift are pretty straightforward once the tank's empty. Undo both the back and front tank bolts, remove the vacuum line from the console and replace with a longer one from the kit. Install the brackets in the front loosely. Get a piece of 2x4 or something to raise the back of the tank.
Remove the horn and try to get the rubber isolator off the motor mount. It's on there with red Loctite, so it's a chore. Unhook the horn wires, and take the whole horn assembly and install it through the hole on the little cross piece at the top of the downtubes where an engine guard would bolt on. Take the original ground wire and tape it off and get it out of the way. Cut about a 4" piece off of it first. Track the power wire towards the front of the bike, and pull it through the sheathing. Route the power wire down to the horn and attach it (shrink tubing would be a good idea). Take the cut-off piece of ground wire and crimp on a connector on the bare end. Hook the old end to the horn, and ground the other end on the bolt attaching the horn to the downtubes.
Now you can remove the ugly seatpost. Unbolt it at the bottom, then unbolt it at the top, which is under the front of the seat and also holds the oil tank. Wriggle the thing out gently, removing the shift linkage if you can't get it to make the turn (I couldn't).
With all that done, unbolt the top motor mount, and disconnect the fuel line.
****This is very important!!!****
You
must shorten the fuel line to prevent it from kinking. The stock fuel line
will not work with the tank lift and the RSD motor mount.
Once your fuel line is addressed, bolt up the new motor mount. Test-fit your coil. My wiring came up about 3" short, so we spliced the lines. Do this under the seat and shrink tube it. Bolt the coil to the mount and add plug wires. I'm using 17-1/2" wires, but shorter (or longer) would work.
Good luck!
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