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Old 05-20-2013, 11:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Proper inner primary cover install

So the time has come to marry a newly built shovel motor to the inner primary and transmission of my 83 FXRS. I see a locator dowel on the transmission housing. Other than the o-ring lip on the crankcase there is no other alignment aid. I want to be sure I have the crank case properly located so as not to put undue stress on the inner primary cover. There is little in the Harley shop manual to go by.

Anyone have thoughts on how best to get everything lined up and oil tight?
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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they want you to use stainless steel safety wire & safety wire the 2 rear bolts together.tighten 18-22 ft. lbsalign the transmission case so that the inner primary cover doesn't bind on the main shaft ;or any mount bolts.tighten the primary case-to-tranny bolts 18-22 ft. lbs tighten the rear primary case bolts securely.(i'd use blue locktight) & safety wire.
step 20 install the starter housing etc. perform vacuun test.

are you useing a inclosed belt on the primary? i would & barnett has clutch plates that run wet or dry. i believe you'd like to upgrade to the system.becuase the dry clutch plates gets gease & oil on them & are a pain!!!! to clean, even with a MAP gas propane touch. if not pressureize to 10 psi & listen for hissing leaks. this is from clymers book '66-84 shovelheads.if you need any more from it PM me. lb

Last edited by brownfoxx1; 05-20-2013 at 11:40 PM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I always loosen the transmission to frame and motor to frame. Then check if motor needs shimmed. Mount primary then frame bolts.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Great input.

So, get the primary on the engine right, then bring the tranny to it checking for alignment of the main shaft in the bearing in the inner primary cover. Tighten the tranny to primary cover bolts, safety wire as required, then torque the rear engine mount bolts. Sound right?

The engine is not that radical so going with a stock style clutch from Energy One and a chain primary. Rode it with that same setup for the last ten years with no issues, see no reason to change other that renewing worn parts.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thermodyne is reading this now saying WTF is this? Thermodyne is reading this now saying WTF is this?
For an FXR its a little different

Tranny into frame and mounted to the swing arm and isolators,

Primary mounted to tranny,

Engine into frame and primary.

I just snug the primary/tranny bolts at first, and then go back and lock them down after I have the motor in. If only the motor was out, then no need to do anything back by the trans. You can slip the motor in and out without taking the rear sprocket off.

There's nothing to shim and no tranny to frame on an FXR. The tranny just floats on the rear isolators and bolts to the primary and rear of the motor case. If the case and tranny don't line up, then you'll need to find out why, shimming is not advised. Usually it's a sprung inner primary, happens after the rear engine mounts crack.

After you get it all back in, you'll need to align it with the turn buckles.
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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oops, right
worked on too many softails
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes I know about the alignment. THE most important thing to do for good handling and safety.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thermodyne is reading this now saying WTF is this? Thermodyne is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 83FXRS View Post
Yes I know about the alignment. THE most important thing to do for good handling and safety.
I don't know about the handling or safety, seems the rear wheel will align regardless of engine position. Been there fixed that. But being well centered in the chassis seems to help keep the vibrations away. Be sure to level the frame before you do it. Setting the upper turn buckle with it on the side stand will make it shake your teeth out.
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