Replacing Fork Sliders

[Big Pat]

I purchased a chrome fork slider kit for my 06 Dyna. It will be one of my winter projects. Any suggestions on how to do this the right way? Someone said the seal instalation is a bit trickey.

[ChopperDude]

You're REALLY gonna need the manual on this one.... trying it any other way is gonna be tough. You gotta take the wheel and fender off, and the fork legs off the bike.

For the seals... you can get a fork seal driver for $40 or something, IIRC. Other than that, I've heard of guys using wooden dowels to gently push it into place. I would get a seal driver.

You're going to need an long 6mm allen socket to get the bolt out of the bottom of the leg. I always use a small impact air gun for getting those things out, they can be a bear.

[BigSwede]

Originally Posted by ChopperDude

You're REALLY gonna need the manual on this one.... trying it any other way is gonna be tough. You gotta take the wheel and fender off, and the fork legs off the bike.

For the seals... you can get a fork seal driver for $40 or something, IIRC. Other than that, I've heard of guys using wooden dowels to gently push it into place. I would get a seal driver.

You're going to need an long 6mm allen socket to get the bolt out of the bottom of the leg. I always use a small impact air gun for getting those things out, they can be a bear.

Check out Georges Garage for a seal driver. It's your safest bet.

[jmpancoast1]

Originally Posted by Big Pat

I purchased a chrome fork slider kit for my 06 Dyna. It will be one of my winter projects. Any suggestions on how to do this the right way? Someone said the seal instalation is a bit trickey.

Couple tips for you Pat.

Since you have an 06, you need a 12mm allen wrench for the allen head bolt in the bottom of each fork tube. It needs to be long enough to reach up in the slider on each tube assembly. This bolt can be a bitch to remove. May be easiest to break it loose while the tube assembly is still in the trees and the fender is still bolted up. Loosen this bottom bolt first, just enough to break it loose, then continue to remove the tube assembly from the front end. Keep in mind, once this bottom allen head bolt is loose enough, all your fork fluid will start running out. If you like, you can let the fluid drain from here.

Also, on the 49mm tubes, a 2" piece of plastic (PVC) pipe works perfect as a seal driver. The i.d. is just right to fit over the tube, the o.d. is just right to fit inside the top of the slider. The length should be such that is will extend above the top of the fork tube so you can tap on the PVC pipe to seat the new seal.

I have some info which may help you with the install and correct fluid refill. Click here to e-mail me if you would like this info.

John

[Coolmaker]

I agree about the PVC, it works like a champ... And the saved money bought beer.. LOL

[CaptVic]

Originally Posted by ChopperDude

You're REALLY gonna need the manual on this one.... trying it any other way is gonna be tough. You gotta take the wheel and fender off, and the fork legs off the bike.

For the seals... you can get a fork seal driver for $40 or something, IIRC. Other than that, I've heard of guys using wooden dowels to gently push it into place. I would get a seal driver.

You're going to need an long 6mm allen socket to get the bolt out of the bottom of the leg. I always use a small impact air gun for getting those things out, they can be a bear.

I just did this to my softail 2007. I used the old seal to drive the new seal in. Worked great.

[ChopperDude]

I disagree with your instructions on how to remove the bolt. Why remove the top cap and spring, and THEN try to apply pressure to tube and slider when with the top cap and spring installed, that is already accomplished? In the shop, I probably did 100 of these jobs... only with 1 or 2 did I have any issues with it.

Again... I used a small air impact gun. I found a set of BIG Allen wrenches from Northern for under $20. I cut the 'L' off the 12mm one, and stuck the end into a 12mm 6-point socket. Air is good, because as atrick mentioned, that bolt goes into the damper rod and it's not really "held" by anything inside the leg other than pressure from the spring. Sometimes, trying to turn that bolt will just cause the damper rod to turn regardless of what you do. The small air gun will basically "snatch" it free. But even if I didn't have an air gun... I'd leave it assembled, try to get a 12mm Allen wrench in "socket" form, and get a big breaker bar.

So anyway... the first thing I would do is to try and remove the bolt with the leg still assembled. Once it's broken loose, if you want to just go ahead and remove it... hold leg over large bucket, as once the bolt comes out, the oil is going to come rushing out....

[ChopperDude]

Originally Posted by atrick

You remove the top bolt cause the spring puts way to much pressure on everything and when the bolt comes out the tubes are going to fly apart plus the mess with all the oil. Been rebuilding forks and shocks for 14 years myself. You do it anyway you want too I don't care cause I don't have to clean up the mess or fix parts when your done.

I don't even know what you said here... "tubes flying apart"? Not sure how that could happen... certainly NOT from the damper bolt being removed before the top bolt being removed.

I wrenched as a tech in a dealership for almost 4 years... we all did it the same way, no problems.

[Shriner Jim]

Originally Posted by ChopperDude

I don't even know what you said here... "tubes flying apart"? Not sure how that could happen... certainly NOT from the damper bolt being removed before the top bolt being removed.

I wrenched as a tech in a dealership for almost 4 years... we all did it the same way, no problems.

I changed my '07 SG Custom. I did have a problem with the seal in the right side....I've changed it 3 times and got the leak down to "slight". That still isn't good enough. Could the slider be bad?
Jim

[Dan89FLSTC]

Originally Posted by atrick

With the preload that is run on HD springs you run the risk of the snap ring coming out once the allen is removed and the two tube flying apart.

There is only 1-1/2 inch of compression on the spring when the forks are extended...Tubes flying apart? Take that bottom bolt out, leave the snap ring in and give the slider a good yank, bet you can`t get that snap ring to fail.

[ChopperDude]

Originally Posted by Shriner Jim

I changed my '07 SG Custom. I did have a problem with the seal in the right side....I've changed it 3 times and got the leak down to "slight". That still isn't good enough. Could the slider be bad?
Jim

What are you using to "seat" the seal? If you're using something other than a machined driver (ie, a metal device that was specifically designed for that purpose)... I'd look at that. Sometimes the "shortcut" tools work, other times they cause more problems than they're worth. Especially when it's as difficult to access as a fork seal.

Overfilling with fork oil could be a problem as well. Getting too much fluid in there would cause more pressure than the seal was designed to protect against.

But yes... certainly possible there could be a burr somewhere near the seal or some fitment/manufacturing issue as well. Can't say I've ever seen that, but occasionally some rare things do happen. All the previous leaks I've seen and heard of, were fixed by proper installation of new seal (with proper amount of oil).

Let us know what you find out, if you can ever isolate the cause. It's nice to have that "Hmmm, one time I heard of xxxx, let's look at that," when diagnosing an issue.

[Shriner Jim]

Hey Chopperdude:
I used a section of 2" PVC and gently seated the seal. I didn't have an issue with the left side, just the right. I rode to Myrtle Beach and back, boy did I have a mess on the right side. Once again I changed the seal. I rode to the Cherohala Skyway and around to the Dragon (300 miles). Got home and had very little oil on the tube. Maybe it is settleing in, never heard of that but maybe it is self healing. I hope so because it aint no picknic fooling around with this stuff. I may not know until next spring if it is fixed, weather permitting. I could have over-filled it but I made a gauge (4.3") and filled per the shop manual. I used straight 30 weight Bell Ray. An old (really old) harley wrench recommended this oil. At least the left side likes it. The shop manual indicates the direction of the seal, I followed that rule too. If it requires another seal, I'll let you know.
Thanks
Jim

[CAP]

It will be easier if remove the forks from the bike. Turn the forks over and place the fork cap on a folded towel. If your damper rod spins while trying to remove it, just push down on the slider to add more spring pressure to the damper rod and the bolt will come out. You can dump the oil out of the 12mm hole. There should be around28 oz. Use a wood or plastic dowel to remove your chrome dust cover. I apply a little heat to it(heat gun or hair drier) and it will pop right off. Use a small flathead screw driver to remove the retaining clip above the seal. You can now slide hammer the forks apart. Make sure you have the oil lock on the end of the damper rod. If your seal wasn't leaking, you can reuse it but new is always better. If your seals were leaking, you need to look for scratches or divots in the stantions. Use emory cloth or 1000 grit sand paper to remove the imperfections. Clean thoroughly.
Install the new leg. Look at your bushings. The sliding surfaces need to be fully covered in teflon. If the sliding surfaces have copper showing, then replace.Install the new leg. The PVC method works great and will not scratch the stantion tubes like steel seal drivers(Expensive ones are teflon lined to prevent this). The hardest part of assembly is seating the bushing in the lowers. I heat the lowers for a minute, with the method mentioned above, and the bushing goes in much easier. Seat it fully. slide the washer on the fork, and install the seal using the driver and then install the retaining clip. Make sure this is seated in the groove. Aply a little hat to the dust covers and pop them on. Get a funnel and you can add oil through the 12mm damper hole in the sliders. I like 15 wt but other like 10 wt. Add 24 to 28 oz. The lower number will make the forks more linear and the higher number more progressive. Use the higher number if you are heavier or ride harder than most. Install the bolt with brass washer and do the other leg. install and ride.