Forward controls on 2007 lowrider

[rcpilot_971]

I want to put FWD controls on my 2007 lowrider my dealer that is less than a mile away wants 450.00 says it 5 + HRs labor @ 90.00 HR so I call another HD dealer and they say 4 Hrs @ 90.00 then I call another one and they tell its 3.5 Hrs @ 90.00 HR my qustion is why is there so much difference in the time it takes to do the job don't they all go by the same labor book

also is putting FWD controls on hard to do can anyone that works on bikes do it with no problems I ask because I guy that works at a bike shop all typs of bikes will do it for $175 on his day off at his house

Thanks Tim

[96FXD]

Did you read any of this?
http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/se...archid=1639516

[Runner1]

To do it correctly the primary cover has to be removed to allow removal of the old shifter shaft and some parts to the original shifter linkage. Some people keep the original parts in place, cover up the shifter shaft with a chrome cover and somehow wedge the original linkage in place so it won't move.

I just had the forward controls installed on my 06 Street Bob a couple of weeks ago. The primary cover was removed and the shifter shaft and old linkage were removed. Looks neater in my opinion. The only thing that stands out is the little chrome plug covering the hole where the shaft used to be. I am going to look into having is powercoated to match the black engine. I was charged 2.25 hours labor at $70.00 per hour. To me it was worth the extra cost. The forward controls do make the bike much more comfortable.

[WS6 Formula]

You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's. The 2006 kit comes with a longer rear shift lever that requires you to remove the primary to install it. That longer shift lever will give you more leverage for an easier shift, but it will also increase your throw. I prefer the shorter throw and it isnt any harder to shift then the original set up. I bought the the cheaper 2005 kit because I planned on getting a custom shift rod. You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. Also the 2005 kit comes with a bracket to bolt down the original shift lever, but it is pretty easy to remove, read below.

Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. I cut about three quarters thru then wrapped a rag around the shift lever and used vise grips on the other end of the shaft splines and sheared it off.

Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-13...olt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole.

Here's a photo with the 2005 kit and a 2006 polished stainless shift rod on my 2006 Low Rider.

[mnchvgs79]

Unless you're a fan of afro-engineering you do have to remove the primary, leaving the old linkage in place is cheesy. I did the forward controls myself on my 07 FXDL and it is indeed a bit of work, but if you know your way around a tool box, you will be fine.

[ciginia1957]

Originally Posted by mnchvgs79

Unless you're a fan of afro-engineering you do have to remove the primary, leaving the old linkage in place is cheesy. I did the forward controls myself on my 07 FXDL and it is indeed a bit of work, but if you know your way around a tool box, you will be fine.

I AGREE totally with it

[WS6 Formula]

Originally Posted by WS6 Formula

You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's. The 2006 kit comes with a longer rear shift lever that requires you to remove the primary to install it. That longer shift lever will give you more leverage for an easier shift, but it will also increase your throw. I prefer the shorter throw and it isnt any harder to shift then the original set up. I bought the the cheaper 2005 kit because I planned on getting a custom shift rod. You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. Also the 2005 kit comes with a bracket to bolt down the original shift lever, but it is pretty easy to remove, read below.

Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. I cut about three quarters thru then wrapped a rag around the shift lever and used vise grips on the other end of the shaft splines and sheared it off.

Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-13...olt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole.

Here's a photo with the 2005 kit and a 2006 polished stainless shift rod on my 2006 Low Rider.

..........

[mnchvgs79]

How did you plug the hole on the inner primary?

[WS6 Formula]

Originally Posted by mnchvgs79

How did you plug the hole on the inner primary?

I didn't....

[BVBOB]

When I did the install on my 06 street bob I left the short shift shaft also, no problems whatsoever, also to rid myself of the mid shift control shaft I cut it by going in the from the bottom behind the inner primary with a small air reciprocating saw and cutting it off and pulling the shaft out the outer primary, I then plugged the outside hole with a small black button made to hold inner fenders on GM cars, ther is no oil around the mid shaft, there is a tower between the inner and outer primary that meets and keeps the mid shaft sealed off from primary fluid.

[Xmas Camel]

Have you tried just using the freeway pegs. I found that I could brake and shift with my heels and never have to go the the mid pegs at all. Once you get used to it you will love it. And you have the best of both worlds -forward controls and mid controls at no cost

[george248]

Originally Posted by Xmas Camel

Have you tried just using the freeway pegs. I found that I could brake and shift with my heels and never have to go the the mid pegs at all. Once you get used to it you will love it. And you have the best of both worlds -forward controls and mid controls at no cost

wise words...

[GrampsWyatt]

I'm liking that motorbike Formula. Purdy color.

[Timmer]

Originally Posted by Xmas Camel

Have you tried just using the freeway pegs. I found that I could brake and shift with my heels and never have to go the the mid pegs at all. Once you get used to it you will love it. And you have the best of both worlds -forward controls and mid controls at no cost

What he said. Mid controls SUCK!