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Old 08-10-2007, 03:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question SE 110 Motor Mods

Hey all,

I have an 07 SE Dyna, and the other day at the "stealership" the parts guy mentioned that the factory has come out with a piston kit to pump the comp. from the stock 9.3 to a higher number, I think he said 9.8 or 10:1's. I have the 07 SE cat, but it doesnt show these, apparently its an addendum or something. Also, I cant get a yay or nay on what cam is in this motor. I have heard the 255 or similar. The 255 shows some low durations like 211/235 at
.050. Is this right? The motor sounds and romps like it has more cam in it than that. ANYWAY, anybody know about the piston upgrade and have a good choice of cam upgrade for this motor? I have a Fatboy for my cruisin and want to hop up the SE even more for a bad ass street hot rod.

Thanks

Mo
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Old 08-10-2007, 06:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i would add crank work before hot rodding that motor!
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Old 10-02-2007, 11:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The piston kit for the 110" will yield 10.5:1 CR.
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Old 12-22-2007, 12:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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OK, how about the 255 SE cam? Is it any good or is there something better out there?
Race Tuner, Rinehart TD's, SE/AC and lot's of chrome to make the air flow better!
We usually ride two up, stay in the low RPM range 2200-3800 and very seldom hot rod my bike. I like the thought of keeping our bike on the reliable side instead of making it a rocket that will need alot of rebuilding. We like to do alot of touring and with layoffs coming in the new year we just may have the time for touring but limited funds for a full overhaul. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Believe it or not, it is possable to build a TC V-Twin engine to run smoother, cooler and just as long as stock and get a 30% increase in power. I would pick a boltin cam that works with a 9.5:1 comp, use stock ported heads, a full flow aircleaner and some good 2in1 pipes. This change might not make you into a rocket, but it will have you loving your bike.
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43%er

Bi-polar and loving it!!
Bi-polar and hating it!!
95" w/ KB pistons (flattops)
HQ575 cams
Atwood's Road Warrior Heads
HPI bored throttle body
.030 head gasket
SuperTrapp Supermeg 2in1
"43" points cover
TRW rear mount
obligatory Baisley Spring

Take you a glass of water. Make it against the law. See how good the water tastes. When you can't have any at all.

Just sayin..........
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Old 12-24-2007, 04:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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110"

Several ways to "get yer motor runnin".
The cubes are already there. Head work, pistons, cam, and TUNED.
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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SE 110 Mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Torker07 View Post
OK, how about the 255 SE cam? Is it any good or is there something better out there?
Race Tuner, Rinehart TD's, SE/AC and lot's of chrome to make the air flow better!
We usually ride two up, stay in the low RPM range 2200-3800 and very seldom hot rod my bike. I like the thought of keeping our bike on the reliable side instead of making it a rocket that will need alot of rebuilding. We like to do alot of touring and with layoffs coming in the new year we just may have the time for touring but limited funds for a full overhaul. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
I have a 2008 FLHTCUSE3. The stock cam is the 255 which is rather mild. I did the following mods:
SE A/C
Bub 7 true duals
SE race tuner
SE 10.5:1 pistons
Wood TW-7H cams

After Dyno, this set up delivered 101 HP and 118 torque

This pulls very strong in the RPM range you are looking for.

Here is the dyno printout. Unfortuantely, no baseline run before motor work:
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Old 01-29-2008, 02:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It don’t take much to get real nice HP out of your 110”
People spend a lot of money needlessly in my opinion.

TB, Air filter, and get the junk out of the stock pipes, will make a very big difference. Tuning to these changes can be done with after market tuning units. I used the Thunder Max with auto tune from Zippers for that to save on Dyno time and cost.

Johnnie Rouse
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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why the need for crank work??? what is the factory crank lacking, or is it just not built to tight enough tolerances... darkhorse crank works in WI.. they do really nice work..
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigwe View Post
why the need for crank work??? what is the factory crank lacking, or is it just not built to tight enough tolerances... darkhorse crank works in WI.. they do really nice work..
the chinese crank is known for excessive runout. even if you have one that is within tolerence--------it WIIIIIIIIILL slip. so why spend any money on motor work knowing you will have to split the cases?
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Old 02-28-2008, 07:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I like to run flat top pistons, 0 deck height with a .030 headgasket and 78cc heads, that gives you a 10:1 with a good flow and less chance of denation problems with temp and tuning changes. High compression pistons seem to be more prone to denation and unequal forces on the tops of them.
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old wrench View Post
I like to run flat top pistons, 0 deck height with a .030 headgasket and 78cc heads, that gives you a 10:1 with a good flow and less chance of denation problems with temp and tuning changes. High compression pistons seem to be more prone to denation and unequal forces on the tops of them.
Just asking here. How is that 10:1?

Rouse
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Just asking here. How is that 10:1?

Rouse
me thinks his math was based on 88-95 inch motor?
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Wink

Quote:
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me thinks his math was based on 88-95 inch motor?
That fits a lot better.
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:25 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rouse View Post
Just asking here. How is that 10:1?

Rouse
Sorry I should have said that is for a 95 here is the formula

Displacement = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Stroke x 16.387
Head Gasket space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Gasket thickness x 16.387064
Deck Height space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Deck Height x 16.387064
Compressed Volume = Head Gasket space + Deck Height space +
Piston Top volume + Combustion chamber volume
Uncompressed Volume = Compressed Volume + Displacement
Compression Ratio = Uncompressed volume ÷ Compressed volume

or you can plug in the numbers on this site:

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
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