SE 110 Motor Mods

[Mohead1]

Hey all,

I have an 07 SE Dyna, and the other day at the "stealership" the parts guy mentioned that the factory has come out with a piston kit to pump the comp. from the stock 9.3 to a higher number, I think he said 9.8 or 10:1's. I have the 07 SE cat, but it doesnt show these, apparently its an addendum or something. Also, I cant get a yay or nay on what cam is in this motor. I have heard the 255 or similar. The 255 shows some low durations like 211/235 at
.050. Is this right? The motor sounds and romps like it has more cam in it than that. ANYWAY, anybody know about the piston upgrade and have a good choice of cam upgrade for this motor? I have a Fatboy for my cruisin and want to hop up the SE even more for a bad ass street hot rod.

Thanks

Mo

[claydbal]

i would add crank work before hot rodding that motor!

[compressor#v]

The piston kit for the 110" will yield 10.5:1 CR.

[Torker07]

OK, how about the 255 SE cam? Is it any good or is there something better out there?
Race Tuner, Rinehart TD's, SE/AC and lot's of chrome to make the air flow better!
We usually ride two up, stay in the low RPM range 2200-3800 and very seldom hot rod my bike. I like the thought of keeping our bike on the reliable side instead of making it a rocket that will need alot of rebuilding. We like to do alot of touring and with layoffs coming in the new year we just may have the time for touring but limited funds for a full overhaul. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

[route66paul]

Believe it or not, it is possable to build a TC V-Twin engine to run smoother, cooler and just as long as stock and get a 30% increase in power. I would pick a boltin cam that works with a 9.5:1 comp, use stock ported heads, a full flow aircleaner and some good 2in1 pipes. This change might not make you into a rocket, but it will have you loving your bike.

[Hillside]

Several ways to "get yer motor runnin".
The cubes are already there. Head work, pistons, cam, and TUNED.

[mmbraun]

Originally Posted by Torker07

OK, how about the 255 SE cam? Is it any good or is there something better out there?
Race Tuner, Rinehart TD's, SE/AC and lot's of chrome to make the air flow better!
We usually ride two up, stay in the low RPM range 2200-3800 and very seldom hot rod my bike. I like the thought of keeping our bike on the reliable side instead of making it a rocket that will need alot of rebuilding. We like to do alot of touring and with layoffs coming in the new year we just may have the time for touring but limited funds for a full overhaul. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

I have a 2008 FLHTCUSE3. The stock cam is the 255 which is rather mild. I did the following mods:
SE A/C
Bub 7 true duals
SE race tuner
SE 10.5:1 pistons
Wood TW-7H cams

After Dyno, this set up delivered 101 HP and 118 torque

This pulls very strong in the RPM range you are looking for.

Here is the dyno printout. Unfortuantely, no baseline run before motor work:

[rouse]

It don’t take much to get real nice HP out of your 110”
People spend a lot of money needlessly in my opinion.

TB, Air filter, and get the junk out of the stock pipes, will make a very big difference. Tuning to these changes can be done with after market tuning units. I used the Thunder Max with auto tune from Zippers for that to save on Dyno time and cost.

Johnnie Rouse

[craigwe]

why the need for crank work??? what is the factory crank lacking, or is it just not built to tight enough tolerances... darkhorse crank works in WI.. they do really nice work..

[claydbal]

Originally Posted by craigwe

why the need for crank work??? what is the factory crank lacking, or is it just not built to tight enough tolerances... darkhorse crank works in WI.. they do really nice work..

the chinese crank is known for excessive runout. even if you have one that is within tolerence--------it WIIIIIIIIILL slip. so why spend any money on motor work knowing you will have to split the cases?

[old wrench]

I like to run flat top pistons, 0 deck height with a .030 headgasket and 78cc heads, that gives you a 10:1 with a good flow and less chance of denation problems with temp and tuning changes. High compression pistons seem to be more prone to denation and unequal forces on the tops of them.

[rouse]

Originally Posted by old wrench

I like to run flat top pistons, 0 deck height with a .030 headgasket and 78cc heads, that gives you a 10:1 with a good flow and less chance of denation problems with temp and tuning changes. High compression pistons seem to be more prone to denation and unequal forces on the tops of them.

Just asking here. How is that 10:1?

Rouse

[claydbal]

Originally Posted by rouse

Just asking here. How is that 10:1?

Rouse

me thinks his math was based on 88-95 inch motor?

[rouse]

Originally Posted by claydbal

me thinks his math was based on 88-95 inch motor?

That fits a lot better.

[old wrench]

Originally Posted by rouse

Just asking here. How is that 10:1?

Rouse

Sorry I should have said that is for a 95 here is the formula

Displacement = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Stroke x 16.387
Head Gasket space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Gasket thickness x 16.387064
Deck Height space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Deck Height x 16.387064
Compressed Volume = Head Gasket space + Deck Height space +
Piston Top volume + Combustion chamber volume
Uncompressed Volume = Compressed Volume + Displacement
Compression Ratio = Uncompressed volume ÷ Compressed volume

or you can plug in the numbers on this site:

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html