88fxrp rear brake switch

[groundrod]

The problem i have is the rear switch continues to go out for some reason. I have changed the switch 4 times over the last 3 years. I use dot 5 fluid and bleed the brakes every time. This solves the problem for a while but as soon as i need to stop short or press the peddel extra hard the brake light stops working (switch fails). Is there something that i'm missing here? The switch is OEM.

Thanks for any information on this delima in advance.

[hardluk1]

Could it be a wireing problem?? Maybe try to auto part store sender next time. You had me going to check mine . Its an 86 origenal. You do have good rear brakes just no brake light from rear control? Unplug the swtch and check for a open and closed cuircut when useing the peddel.

[groundrod]

The wireing is good. I remove the wires from the switch, bump them together and presto. I have brake light. It appears that there is no pressure from the fluid to activate the switch connection to the wires when i press the peddel. The resivoir is topped off so low fluid is not the problem. Light comes on when wires connected, rules out electrical problem. Brake pads are good. Maybe I'm bleeding them wrong. I teflon tape the switch, Screw and tighten into the brake resivoir, and bleed them into the brake calliper(brake zerk). I will try the auto parts store for the new switch this round. Alrady picked one up from the H-D shop but will keep it as a back up.

[hardluk1]

Is your rear brake easy to get to work -stop the bike? Mine is very smooth and light. I was looing at mine and it has a high spot in the line that could hold a air bubble if bleeding by the oll pumping the peddle method. Have you tried a vacume pump. I did mine but all i did was flush new fluid after drain'n the old out, refill'd, did the tap,tap,tap, on the brake peddle till the little air bubbles stoped then put the vac on to suck the line clear of old fuild and air and was done in two minutes. Took 30 minutes to get all air out of the lower part of the box.

[groundrod]

Yes it seems to be. I went to auto zone and got a switch for a car. dont know what model. guess it really doesnt matter. the thread pattern and diameter were the same and it worked. Changed it out and didnt bother to bleed it (only about 5 or 6 drops of fluid came out) hooked the wires back up, pressed on the peddel and had light. Took it out for a test and the brake did lock up on a short stop and did stop smoothly at around 45 to 50 MPH. What do you think on this, as i was comparing the two switches i seen that the OEM has a smaller hole for the fluid to activate the switch than the one from the auto store. Do you think that makes a differance on fluid pressure? Imagine that- i got twice the hole for half the price. any way, it seems to be working for the time being. I'll ride it this week and see how it des before doing the 600 mile ride next weekend. Thanks for the information on changing from OEM to aftermarket. I will let you know how it goes later on this week.

[hardluk1]

I have no idea what would cause your old problem i was just take'n a guess at some changes. Watch those brakes ,if a bubble gets to the line you could geta hard brake but good luck with it. You know thats not a easy spot to see into ,wonder if some peace of and lod spender was stuck in there and finally moved or fell out with those couple drops. I don't go to the dealer if i can help it at all. Any time you walk by your ride check that brake light out. The only time i use only the rear much is proably is in a parking lot for bike stability so if mine went out i might not no it. Now i check just my rear twice yesterday in the basement. I have gold EBC pads on the rear now,very light touch,don't really like that feel . But on the front i have single brake that would not stop and changed it to jaybrake 6 piston and I now have 2 finger brakes. Good luck.