fxr cam

[sdlowrider]

I feel like opening up a new can of worms today so here goes....1993 fxrs lowrider conv. Stock motor, as far as I can tell,with Vance & Hines pipes, rejetted stock carb (with lots of 1/2" holes in the airbox thanx to the previous owner). Thinking about a mild cam, is it worth changing with out doing other mods too, and if so who has done this, what cam did you use, and what benefit did you get from it?

[pwmorris]

How mild? Whar are you looking for? Gennerally, a larger cam (higher lift-more duration) will put more strain on valve springs, valve train etc. and you have to check valve to piston clearance, cam chest, etc. to make sure you are good. Everlything has to work together as one and if you change something internally, you have to keep everything on the same page.
What are you looking for out of you bike?
Highway passing speed and up hill passing power, bar hopper,
or to make it more of a hot rod?
The stock heads, soft springs, and small carb you have now work together with the small cam currently in the bike.
Regardless of engine size, it's basically an air pump-you want it to pump more but it has to do so as efficiently and RELIABLY as possible.
That said, there are some mild cams out there that will work for you but I would wait until you can do more things at once to the engine and keep your motor on the same page-raising the performance up a notch as well.

[ClassicRider]

sdlowrider....

Alright here is a "mild" cam....
I put in a V~Thunder 3010 cam on my 1999 FXR2. I wasn't looking to change my heads, or springs or even go up into the cylinders at all to make modifications....

Technical Assistance: 1-800-967-1066
Vthunder.com
Evolution™ Big Twin Cam, No Gear
PART #EVL-3010NG <~~~NG means this cam came with no gear as I reused my "stock" gear. Which requires some dry ice and an oven to both seperate the oem gear from the oem cam and then refitting the new cam onto the previously used oem gear. Why do this? Simply to avoid any gear lash issues....you know everything fits so it still fits if you reuse your current OEM gear.

I have NO IDEA whether the V~Thunder 3010 cam will work in your 1993 FXR for sure....so I suggest making a call to their TECH support if you become interested in their cam.


DESCRIPTION:
• hydraulic
• bolt-in
• 80 inch engines
• good low end torque and mid-range in heavy and light bikes
• 1500 to 5800 rpm
• excellent fuel mileage

07-07-2005 EVL-3010NG $87.00

I paid $87.00 for the cam ONLY in 2005 not sure what they cost today.....I would really say the cam is really active from 1600 RPM's up until 4400 rpms...where most of it's pull exists.....

I was after more "umphf" at the line from stop light to stop light....and this from the seat of the pants gives me what I was seeking....I really enjoy the cam.

I am saying this with the background of running a 95" 570 S&S cam with gerolamy heads on my 2002 Road King Classic. So I know what a bit more "aggressive" set up with a "mild" 95" feels on a bike weighing in at over 720 lbs compared to my FXR2 which comes in slightly above 600 "wet". So I feel the V~Thunder 3010 is a very fun cam.....but this statement is so "subjective" asking someone which cam they like is akin to asking someone how hot something is to them....you never know what their tolerance is....lol UNTIL you get to know them or you try the exact same item to determine yourself how hot it is.

REMEMBER THIS IS A "MILD" CAM!!!!!

I also replaced the inner cam bearing:
Torrington B 138 Inner Camshaft Bearing $6.75 <~~~if doing a "Cam" this is a must! just because it's so CHEAP to do....

Of course this discussion really can't be had without also talking about changing the lifters if they have over 5,000 -10,000 miles on them....it's just not a good idea to use previously used lifters and put them on the cam lobe. Depending upon what you decide upon they can cost in the $250.00 range.

Then the debate is whether to go with "adjustable" push rods, @ approximately $120.00 or so or whether to lower your engine at the front engine motor mount, remove the gas tank [which makes it easier, can be done without it but it's easier removing the gas tank] and then replacing gaskets to the point where you remove the rocker arms of both cylinders to pull the "OEM" push rods out and then reuse them.....Knowing what I know now, I probably would go with sticking with the "OEM" push rods and forgoing the "convenience" of the "adjustability" of adjustable push rods....but it's "flavor" question, ie: which "flavor" do you want.....

To pull the inner cam bearing out, you must have a "special" tool....which can cost $100.00 + depending on where you acquire it or whether you wish to "rent" it, there is a person over on Harley Tech Talk in the "swap" section that does "rent" tools for a fee.....many have used the guy.

Total cost of doing a "cam" job can be approximately anywhere from $650.00 or less with your own labor....@ a indy shop, probably $450-$550 in labor and + the parts....so I wouldn't be surprised hearing a figure of $800-$1100 to do a cam job on an evo.

Price of doing the "job" yourself......"PRICELESS SATISFACTION" <~~~~that's worth a lot. Time for you to do it yourself depends on your mechanical knowledge and ability....if never done before anywhere from 18 hours to 24 hours....thus anywhere from a day and a half to three days......

Regards,

"Classic"

[pwmorris]

Well said Classic....
As you can see cam selection is very subjective and with a cam selection it is very easy to start replacing several other valve train components$$$.
What works for one rider and one bike many not be right for you but hope this gives you some ideas.