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Old 08-22-2008, 05:45 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydbal View Post
SAMF, how bout some word on that silent series baffle? that was for the supermeg?

thanks
Yes its for the supermeg. It quiets it down quite a bit, performance seemed to suffer slightly as well. My issue was that it seemed to cause alot more intake noise. Some might say that because the exhaust is quiet now I hear the intake but thats not the case...its the baffle

I pulled it after a few miles but I will install it again for an upcoming long trip I think...

Sam
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Old 08-22-2008, 06:10 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamF View Post
Yes its for the supermeg. It quiets it down quite a bit, performance seemed to suffer slightly as well. My issue was that it seemed to cause alot more intake noise. Some might say that because the exhaust is quiet now I hear the intake but thats not the case...its the baffle

I pulled it after a few miles but I will install it again for an upcoming long trip I think...

Sam
notice any pinging or fuel blowing out the intake>?

thanks again.
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Old 08-22-2008, 08:04 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydbal View Post
notice any pinging or fuel blowing out the intake>?

thanks again.
Not really, but it sounded like there was a wood pecker with a sledge hammer in there... It was much better after I pulled it and adjusted the packing a bit but it was still there...
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Old 08-22-2008, 09:10 PM   #34 (permalink)
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good luck with it man. i am always looking for quiet AND performance.

hoping to try a kawazuki canister. maybe that will be the holy grail.
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:01 PM   #35 (permalink)
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quiet please

hi,
I came across a little trick that I have successfully used to quiet down my X-2 pocket bike by at least 30% - for only about $10.00 total and maybe 20 minutes of my time… Plus, there was very little effect on performance (in my case, it was a positive effect, though!).

I purchased a $5.00 muffler from my local hardware store, designed to fit Briggs & Stratton 5-8 hp motors, and fit it via a small connection pipe to my exhaust.

Now, every engine is slightly different, but on my bike, the difference in performance was actually a slight increase… This may not be the case for everyone, but I suspect the difference for most will be very minimal; this is not the point of the silencer.

I noticed a VERY obvious difference in volume and that horrible, weed whacker-like metallic sound, however, which has enabled me to ride my bike at night without worrying about disturbing the folks around where I live.

So, here are the directions for how I made my removable exhaust silencer!

1. Go to a hardware store and purchase a Briggs & Stratton 5-8 HP exhaust silencer (or its generic equivalent).

2. Get an 8-9” long piece of 7/8” I.D. steel pipe with a 1/16th” wall, and test by fitting it around the inner baffle of your muffler (see PIC 1). It should be a VERY tight fit, and you should have to twist it a bit to get it on. Once you’re sure you have the right size pipe, cut it down to 3-4”.

3. It’s time to affix the pipe to your newly-purchased silencer. There are a few ways of doing this, such as hammering the pipe you just got over the threaded end of the silencer (you could use a bit of J.B. KWIK* on the end of the silencer you’re shoving into the pipe to help hold it tightly). It would also be wise to use a small pipe clamp where you join the silencer and the pipe… I chose to have mine welded, which should cost you about $5.00 at any lower-end, local muffler shop (see PIC 2)

4. Once you have your silencer with your 3” long pipe attached to the threaded end, you just have to shove it around the inner baffle of your pipe. I used a bit of high-strength, extremely high-heat resistant silicone glue around the inside of the silencer’s new “extension pipe”, and forced it around the inner baffle of my stock muffler.

5. Let the glue cure overnight, and if everything is done right, the next morning your pocket rocket should be far quieter!
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Old 08-23-2008, 12:01 AM   #36 (permalink)
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all you guys with Indiana Drug Addiction in sig are really on something. care to share?
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Old 09-03-2008, 08:19 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Well I just installed my Fullsac TD conversion and a set of CVO mufflers and it is PERFECT. The bike is really no louder then stock but does have that unique Harley cadence to it. I cannot sense any decrease or increase in power, but my right thigh is so happy it is not even funny. I give the FullSac boys a big thumbs up took about an 1 hour 45 minutes to install and the fit and finish is right on the money. No more fear of rush hour traffic for this old camper.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions this has been one of the best add ons to the bike yet.

Best regards, Harry
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:02 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Thumbs down CVO Mufflers - 2007 CV0 Road King

Hi,
I am trying to achieve the same result with my Road King.
I bought a set of V&H Big Shot Duals fitted them plus the 'quiet' baffle.........Very LOUD!!!

My original mufflers had differing design for the right and left, so using them with true duals is not an option. Do you have the Part Number for your CVO mufflers - are they the same as the Screaming Eagle ones on the HD website.

Many thanks and Happy New Year..........

Colin T
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:30 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I have an 02 FLHT with true duels. My friends were talking that they may contribute to my popping at lower RPM because of lower back preasure in #2 cyl. They are fairly quite and Im with you I like it like that.
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:10 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Stereo friendly huh!

I purchased and installed a set of V & H "Monster" Ovals on my 2007 Ultra last week, took a ride with my honey on the back, for a trip to one of our favorite 'eaterys'.

maybe 6-8 miles there and back and took them off the next day and back to the stock mufflers.

The ad said 'stereo friendly' and disproves the theory that more horsepower means louder. I want you to know that we couldn't hear anything but the mufflers at 65 and lower.

OK, I believed what I read plus the fact that usually the greater internal volume of the 'cans' should have helped 'pass the gas' without the noise (depending on internal baffles).

I went back to my automobile logic of years ago when I had my favorite muffler shop put dual pipes and mufflers on my Chevy V8.

I told him to put something on that made more power but not noise so he put on 2 Corvette resonators. They were bigger (volume wise) and quiet. Yes, the power increase was very obvious.

Then you take companies like FLOWMASTER, who have been building auto mufflers for years that are quiet and 'flow the gas'.

I guess I will have to hang at the Harley dealer and see if I can find someone with those SE Touring mufflers that some of you have referred to.

BTW, the drop in performance going back to the 'stock' HD mufflers from the V & H ovals, was significant but we can hear the stereo and the HD growl of the exhaust.

Marty

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Old 01-05-2009, 11:52 AM   #41 (permalink)
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FYI when sound increases by 10 db the subjective response is a doubling of loudness.thus an increase from 60-70 db=twice as loud.decibels are on a logarithmic scale.a pipe that controls high frequency(hz) better will not be as "ear"atating.stock street motorcycles are 80dba per EPA guidelines(epa title 40 part 205)most pipe mfgs should be able to provide you with a db rating of their product.this rating should be done using the EPA drive by test for compairson purposes
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:59 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Actually, Vbagger, you are partially correct; a 3 db increase is what the 'average' human ear senses as doubling the sound volume. 10 db is way more than that.
You are correct on controlling the high pitch (tinny/metalic) sound, that is a big part of what is perceived as being loud or obnoxious. That deep mellow tone is amost always prefered over the loud higher pitch of a straight drag pipe as an example.
EPA drive by testing is very difficult and expensive to do, most exhaust manufacturers use the J1287 stationary test for comparision (including ourselves, ST, but also FMF, PC, HMF, VH, etc.) Regardless, the drive by testing is almost useless to an aftermarket manufacturer as there are many other factors that add to the 'drive by noise' other than the exhaust; intake, mirrors, fenders (Indian), drive belt/system, wheels/tires, etc. Drive by testing is more applicable to the OEM manufacturer.
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:18 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Interestingly ,our perception of loudness is not the same as sound pressure level.Although the actual formula is some what complex,as a rule of thumb,an increase of 10db spl is perceived to be approximatly twice as loud.Thus a 20 db gain would seem to be about 4 times as loud,and a 40 db gain would seem to be about 16 times as loud.When talking about power,3 db represents a ratio of two to one,or a doubling of power.We use both stationary and pass by testing.It is more accurate for us to compare a stock 80db motorcycle with one of our systems using pass by including all the bikes noise,as that is what the rider is hearing.Also,pass by is the only test EPA considers valid on on highway motorcycles.I agree that a stationary db number gives customers a good comparison if they have a stock bike number from a stationary test.Some day I hope we can have a simple,comparitive sound test that EPA will let us as well as themselves use.Currently they are like a lot of dyno numbers,all over the place.
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Old 01-06-2009, 12:52 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Will do.
Hopefully we will have that test soon, supposedly it is to be a 2000rpm stationary test, but how long will it be before it can be initiated properly in the field? We might be retired....
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:18 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Claydbal, in your quest for quiet and performance, have you tried or do you know of any info on running an SE AC + cam with stock exhaust or stock muffs with TD headers?
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