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Old 02-02-2017, 04:44 AM   #1 (permalink)
Seasoned Rider
 
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lifter cleaning

ive got the top half of my engine apart and waiting on parts.was thinking of pulling my lifters and giving them a good cleaning and reinstalling them. I already have the full top gasket kit on hand.is this necessary or should I leave well enough alone.bike has 27k and hasn't been started in 5 years.if so , whats an advisable solvent to clean them with. sorry, ive got a lotof qestions. I'm trying to give this bike another chance at life.also, I bought the james gasket kit and hayden oil fix. I read where people say to use aviation cement with gaskets. any advice? the gasket set has metal gaskets. I only want to do this once.
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Old 02-02-2017, 02:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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tall terry is reading this now saying WTF is this? tall terry is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Are the gaskets coated? If coated use no sealer..
At 27k just replace the lifters. You can disassemble and clean the hydraulic unit,,, the roller is what fails and takes out the engine... replace the cam bearing with a Torrington while it's apart...
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Old 02-02-2017, 04:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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/\ what he said
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Good advice above.

I have the rep from Permatex talk to my students every year and even he says to put gaskets on dry unless cork or paper. If cork or paper then use red spray sealer or copper coat. Basically even the guy selling the chemicals says that they are not a good idea.

Considering the oil fix I assume it is an Evo. Make sure that the jugs are dead flat before you put them back on. Most of them warp a bit on the bottom and are hard to seal unless straightened.

Where about in NC?
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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theyre the metal james gaskets. rocker box is coated. if I replace lifters do I replace push rods as well? manual says to use an alignment tool when installing lifter block. whats that about? Tweaked I'm in a little town called browns summit. Its outside of Greensboro.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Use the old pushrods.It doesn't hurt to roll them on a flat surface to check for straightness. Georges Garage which is a site sponsor has the tapered pins for alignment.They are relatively cheap and easy to use.Screw the pins in diagonally opposite each other,install two opposing bolts half torque,remove pins,install other two bolts and torque them halfway,then tighten them all to spec.
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Old 02-03-2017, 09:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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awesome thanks. would like to use Harley lifters. is 18523-86b the right part # ?its just a stock engine, no mods as of yet. I see several other mfg. cci,jhonson hylift,reliant etc.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have used and have never heard anything bad about the Johnson Hylift. I think they used to make the H-D "B" lifter, but I cam not 100% sure.

+1 on George's tools

Also not trying to empty your wallet, but if you are doing a top end reseal and opening up the cam chest to change the bearing then it will never be any easier or cheaper to stick a cam in there if it has never had one.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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tall terry is reading this now saying WTF is this? tall terry is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Got to agree with tweaked
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Old 02-04-2017, 06:00 AM   #10 (permalink)
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don't think it hasn't crossed my mind.ive looked at the ev27.dont want nothing radical. if I decide can I still retain my stock springs? haven't done any in depth research on cam installation as my plan was to just seal up and clean it up.one thing leads to another I'm finding out.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The EV-27 (same as HD-SE stg.2) is a good choice for bolt in cam. I have one in my bike. Don't forget to clean or replace the lifter oil feed screen under the slotted cap or pressure gauge. p/n 24981-70.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You mentioned in your op you only want to do this once. You won't be disappointed if you chose to change the cam.

Ev27, or 23 work well in stock 80's. Very important, change cam bearing to Torrington style like TT mentioned. The OE bearing is a weak link in that valve train.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I think I have the better full compliment bearing in mine. mine is a 1988 model. I think I read where its a timkin cam bearing. its supposedly the better between that and the ina bearing .not sure,correct me if I'm wrong. if I do choose to buy a cam I will change bearing anyway. Torrington or koyo I think is the one to buy now.then again I'm reading and learning.all help and info appreciated.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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tall terry is reading this now saying WTF is this? tall terry is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Torrington B138. A full compliment bearing... you can use the stock springs up to about 510 lift.. check the bearing boss for clearance for the inner most cam lobe... the 46 and 3 are also good Cams they just move around where the power comes in.. the 46 revs a little higher and adds about q0-15psi ccp.. it just depends on what you want the bike to do..
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Old 02-04-2017, 08:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The EV27 (Andrews made the SE-3 cam for Harley, only difference is .008 lift) is a nice all around cam, I have never heard of anyone that didn't like it as an upgrade unless they were wanting to go all out. It is good with the stock springs and if I recall can even be used with the stock pushrods. I have put a bunch of them in, and have one in my bike.

If you do the cam be careful about your choice of cam cover gaskets. You want to check the cam end play with a compressed gasket of the same type that you are going to be using. (Paper vs foamet) Usually the aftermarket cams need a shim, but you can get a shim assortment cheap when you buy the cam usually.
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