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Old 08-20-2006, 12:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
Seasoned Rider
 
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Clutch adjustment 1997 Fatboy

Hi there..Any info. on this would be appreciated... I have a 1997 evo Fatboy and I have adjusted the clutch with the adjuster on the cable as far as I can go and have adjusted the bolt on the clutch plates a 1/2 turn... My question is the hex bolt with the lock nut, on the clutch plates, inside the primary inspection cover, in the service manual it shows the bolt sticking out only about 1/4 if that far? for adjustment.. my bolt is out about 1/2 to 3/4 and I have not ever touched it before?? Manual says turn counter clockwise to adjust I just dont want to run out of threads?? Bike has about 33,000 miles on it I bought it with 2,000. So I dont know if the bolt was adjusted out that far when I got the bike or misprint in the manual or something else???
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Old 08-20-2006, 03:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
FNG :)
 
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1. on the clutch cable, silde up rubber boot to access adjuster.
2. loosen locknut
3. turn adjuster allthe way into shorten outer cable and cause slack in inner cable.
4. remove clutch access cover on primary.
5.loosen center locknut and back out adjusting screw (with allen wrench counter clockwise) until there is no pressure on the diaphragm spring.
6.turn adjusting screw clockwise to take up all free play in push rod (until resistance is felt).
7. loosen adjusting screw 3/4 turn and while holing it in place tighten the locknut (6 - 10 ft-lbs).
8. pull clutch lever to handllebar grip three times to set ball and ramp clutch release mechanism.
9. readjust clutch cable until there is 1/8 to 3/16 in. free play between the outer cable end and hand lever bracket.
Get yourself a service manual, this is all spelled out with pictures to make things clearer.
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Old 08-20-2006, 03:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
Harris
 
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It sounds like it has been adjusted wrong at some point. Someone did not understand that the point where the adjustment rod (the one you turn with the allen key) seats at the point where resistance is first felt, and turned it further. THis will lead to a very difficult pull, which eventually results in a stretched cable. It sounds like this is what you have, based upon your description. You'll likely find that when adjusted properly now, you will be unable to get the cable to work, as it has stretched too much. The cable replacement ranges from an easy, to moderate job, depending upon how much the transmission cover is blocked by the exhaust.

Harris
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Old 08-20-2006, 03:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
Harris
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcrichard
Get yourself a service manual, this is all spelled out with pictures to make things clearer.
Considering he talks about the picture in the Service Manual, my guess would be that he has one. I generally like the service manual, but it is about as clear as mud in describing the procedure for the clutch adjustment; particularly when it comes to defining resistance when turning in the adjusting rod. It should be at the point that it resists the slight pressure of turning the Allen key between your thumb and fingers. The manual does not explain this, and consequently a lot of people run it in too far. When that happens, it leads to the situation FatRideTom describes.

Harris
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Old 08-26-2006, 12:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
Seasoned Rider
 
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Thanks for the info Harris... on adjusting the clutch rod (bolt Hex Head) am I understanding it correctly that you turn the rod bolt inward ? Mine is out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. that would be counterclockwise to the right? As far as the clutch cable where do I start with it?? My clutch pull has never been hard to pull?? It just seems like shifting to 2-3 or 4-5 there isn't much there?? This is about as clear as musd for my bone head.... fatridetom97
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Old 08-26-2006, 12:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
Harris
 
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Tom,

Try starting as if you'd never done anything, and follow these steps exactly:

First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.

1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ½” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.

2) Completely pull the clutch lever. Remove the “C” clip from the bottom of the clutch lever retaining pin, at the clutch lever, then slide the lever from the bracket, so it’s hanging by the cable.

3) Squirt Bike Aid lube into the cable just until it drips out of the jam nut assembly.

4) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.

5) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.

6) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.

7) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!

8) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ½ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ¾ turn. ½ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.

9) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.

10) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50-70 inch pounds of torque.

11) Again add Bike aid to the cable, until it drips from the jam nut assembly.

12) Replace the lever in the bracket, being careful not to bend the black plastic anti-rattle shim. Install the “C” clip.

13) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.

Harris
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