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Old 04-16-2006, 05:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Weeping EVO Cylinder

Hi,
My name is wazza & I am from Australia. I have a 1996 wide glide, with just under 30,000 kilometers. The only mods so for are breather kit, carr & exhaust mods. I have a weepy front cylinder. Does re-tensioning help as with this low amount of "k's" I really don't want to have to pull it down> If I do have to pull it down do I have to replace rings and hone the cylinders?
Thanks for the help
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Old 04-17-2006, 12:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It won't hurt anything other than your pride to have it weep, but you could try tourquing the head bolts to 42 ft. lbs. to try to solve this dillema, but I think you will find that the only true fix, is to replace the gaskets. (use James gaskets with the printed silicone seal, not HD replacements~ they blow!)
You don't have to replace rings, or hone the jugs, unless you find something wrong.
Cheerz,
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Old 04-17-2006, 01:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wazza
Hi,
My name is wazza & I am from Australia. I have a 1996 wide glide, with just under 30,000 kilometers. The only mods so for are breather kit, carr & exhaust mods. I have a weepy front cylinder. Does re-tensioning help as with this low amount of "k's" I really don't want to have to pull it down> If I do have to pull it down do I have to replace rings and hone the cylinders?
Thanks for the help
Welcome to the Forum.

Re-tensioning most likely won't help. If you can't stand the weeping you need new gaskets.

You already have experience with the stock Harley gaskets, so you might seek other sources. A search of the Forum will yield some suggested vendors.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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2 more cents worth

I have an XLCH that weeps from the bases. I just wipe the
oil off when I get home after a ride.
As for the EVO, let's ask the experts a different question.
I have pulled some EVO jugs and replaced base gaskets
but they usually smoke a little bit after this procedure.
(I had always pulled the jugs off the pistons, replaced the
gaskets, and put the jugs back.
How would it do to pull the jugs up enough to remove the
wrist pin, pull the jug with the piston still inside, replace
the gasket, reinstall the wrist pin (with new keeper), and
finish up the job. Maybe this would not upset the ring /barrel seating and not smoke afterwards.
I haven't tried this method so am asking those who know
to chime in and tell us.
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Old 04-19-2006, 04:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey Thanks for the information. As I said the bike has only done 30,000k's so yes i can put up with some oi weep considering I am used to british scoots.

Thanks all
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Old 04-19-2006, 07:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wazza
Hi,
My name is wazza & I am from Australia. I have a 1996 wide glide, with just under 30,000 kilometers. The only mods so for are breather kit, carr & exhaust mods. I have a weepy front cylinder. Does re-tensioning help as with this low amount of "k's" I really don't want to have to pull it down> If I do have to pull it down do I have to replace rings and hone the cylinders?
Thanks for the help
Do not re-torque. You could compromise the threads in the engine case that the stud screws into. Let it weep until you can't stand it anymore and then replace the gasket. You should lap the cylinder bases or turn them down in a lathe to get them flat. I use the factory base gaskets after doing this with no leaking.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I would agree, do not re torque the heads, I have replaced several weeping base gaskets on evo and have not had any problem with smoking afterwards. I remove the top end and as you asked pull the cylinder up far enough to remove the wrist pin, replace the gasket with James metal base gasket reassemble the engine using new wrist pin keepers torque per HD recommendations and problem solved.
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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retourqing is a very bad idea, unless you like to see threads get ripped out. Just live with the weep until the gaskets blow out and either do the job or send it to a shop for new gaskets.
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Old 04-20-2006, 09:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I agree with baggersport. Live with it until it gets bad, then replace the gaskets. Stock gaskets work fine if the sealing surfaces are clean, flat, and undamaged. DO NOT use silicone sealant on the gaskets! If you have to do that, then there is something wrong with the sealing surfaces. No need to send it to a shop and waste tons of money. It's a simple job to replace them without removing the pistons from the cylinders (as BikeMike said). If you've had Brit bikes, then I'm sure you must have some mechanical ability.

The reason people blow cylinder base gaskets is because they take off before the engine is warmed up. The cylinders should be warm to the touch before reving above 2000 rpm.
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Old 04-29-2006, 01:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Your lucky, my base gaskets went at 3,600, but the previous owner let it set in the garage so i think they dry rotted. Anyway, I decided if I was gonna have to take it that far down I was gonna replace the rings and flex hone the cylinders. I also put the "hayden oil fix" (check a dennis kirk catalog )in it, thats just a sleeve between the return oil passage of the cylinder and the crankcase. That keeps oil from even touching the gasket. I put metal Cometic basegaskets and head gaskets back in it. 9,000 miles latter still bone dry and it never smoked. But I did break it in like a new engine for the first 500 miles.
After I did all this though I was told be an indy mechanic that you can raise the cylinder just enough to smear some silicone on there and tighten it back down......who knows, that might work too. good luck.
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Old 04-30-2006, 11:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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you might want to check the archives but i think the 96's had a problem with the cylinder studs enlongating. i think harley did a recall on them. good luck!
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Weeping Cylinder

You will have to change the gasket. And yes James is the best. You can buy a top end kit with every gasket for the top end in it.
Make sure your torque wrench is calibrated, I did mine last year and it wasnt even close to specs. Just finished re-doing it again. I guess ya learn from your mistakes.
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Old 05-07-2006, 04:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks to all for your help
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Old 05-07-2006, 11:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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are you SURE it's the base, or head?

Two years ago it looked like my rear head was weeping on a 97 EVO w/ 40,000 mi. Myself and some others looked at it and concluded it to be the head gasket. After tearing it down, turned out to be a rocker box gasket that was folded from the factory. Very surpirsed it went that long.

Anyway, since I was there, ended up pulling the jug and replcacing from the base on up. The cylinder looked fine, still had the cross hatch marks in it, made sure the rings didn't get spun around. Reassembled the whold thing with HD factory gaskets. Screwed up and reused the head bolts (they should be replaced if you do this, they work by streaching when tourqued) and all has been fine ever since. If you've never done it, plan on taking a day, take your time and follow your HD manual, don't use a clymer, I had both and at points they contradicted each other both on tourqe specs and patterns.

Good luck.
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Old 05-08-2006, 09:51 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RidingJerry
I have an XLCH that weeps from the bases. I just wipe the
oil off when I get home after a ride.
As for the EVO, let's ask the experts a different question.
I have pulled some EVO jugs and replaced base gaskets
but they usually smoke a little bit after this procedure.
(I had always pulled the jugs off the pistons, replaced the
gaskets, and put the jugs back.
How would it do to pull the jugs up enough to remove the
wrist pin, pull the jug with the piston still inside, replace
the gasket, reinstall the wrist pin (with new keeper), and
finish up the job. Maybe this would not upset the ring /barrel seating and not smoke afterwards.
I haven't tried this method so am asking those who know
to chime in and tell us.
That's a good method if you do not wish to take a chance on increased oil burning. I've removed cylinders that way many times when the problem is with some part of the engine other than the cylinders.

Just make sure to have a rag in the cylinder opening to prevent something falling in, like a piston pin circlip.

OTOH, If I take the cylinder off I will replace piston rings with new since you're there anyway. A little bit of glaze-breaking with a hone will help at that point if neccessary.
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