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Old 06-11-2004, 11:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
IronButt
 
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Sportster carb coughing and correct setting?

I know just about all sportster cough alittle out of the carb, I have been trying different mix settings . I have it set at about 2 3/4 turns out from seated. Bike runs better but seems to get choked up when sitting at idle for long periods of time and I will have to blow it out to get it to idle correct. Do I have the carb set to rich in this case? 2-3/4 turns seems almost a normal setting for a rejet cv stock carb I hear. but at the same saying seems to be running hotter than when it was at 3 turns out.
I have read all kinds of setting threads on the sportster forum. SOme say to rejet with a yost tube and an umbrella and it will run much better...oh yea installed SEII slip ons.
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Old 06-12-2004, 04:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
IronButt
 
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First things first, what size is your slow jet? That wasn't in your first post.

Hopefully you're going to reply with anything but the stock slow jet size.

Secondly what year is your bike? I have an 04 1200R, pipes and air box, and everyone had told me to go with the 45. I did, it sucked. I had very much what you are describing. The pilot screw was backed out to the point of being ineffective. Would get "bogged" at idle occasionally, and still coughed. The cough is what pissed me off. I was told by 3 different dealers, and 2 indy's that the 45 would cure me. Apparently this is correct for pre 04 sportys but not for the new ones.

I finally decided screw it, I'll buy the 46 and 48, see which one stops the problem. Never got to the 48, installed the 46 started at 2 turns, and stopped turning at 2.25. I haven't heard a cough yet, that was a month ago.

Idle stability and tone improved, cold starts became really easy with about 1/4 choke, and to start it when warm, give it a squirt from the accelerator pump, let the starter rotate once and she's running

Everyone knows that running hot could be running lean, but running to rich will do it too. I found that when approaching 3 turns on the screw, there was very little to no needle left in the hole to control the flow. and it may as well not be there.

Good luck,
Shaggybob
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Old 06-12-2004, 05:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
IronButt
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaggybob
First things first, what size is your slow jet? That wasn't in your first post.

Hopefully you're going to reply with anything but the stock slow jet size.

Secondly what year is your bike? I have an 04 1200R, pipes and air box, and everyone had told me to go with the 45. I did, it sucked. I had very much what you are describing. The pilot screw was backed out to the point of being ineffective. Would get "bogged" at idle occasionally, and still coughed. The cough is what pissed me off. I was told by 3 different dealers, and 2 indy's that the 45 would cure me. Apparently this is correct for pre 04 sportys but not for the new ones.

I finally decided screw it, I'll buy the 46 and 48, see which one stops the problem. Never got to the 48, installed the 46 started at 2 turns, and stopped turning at 2.25. I haven't heard a cough yet, that was a month ago.

Idle stability and tone improved, cold starts became really easy with about 1/4 choke, and to start it when warm, give it a squirt from the accelerator pump, let the starter rotate once and she's running

Everyone knows that running hot could be running lean, but running to rich will do it too. I found that when approaching 3 turns on the screw, there was very little to no needle left in the hole to control the flow. and it may as well not be there.

Good luck,
Shaggybob
okay I don't know what the jet sizes are. When I purchased the bike new from the dealer I had them put k/n filter...jet kit and SEII slip ons. 2003 XLC 1200

I guess I need to remove the carb and see what jets they put in.
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Old 06-12-2004, 05:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Before you go removing the entire ac assembly and carb, look to see if you have enough clearance to remove the bowl without removing the AC. I think I'm remebering correctly that the se air kit for pre 04 will allow enough room to use a shorty #2 phillips or allen if you changed screws, to remove the bowl without taking the whole dang thing apart, however I've been looking at mine so much lately that the only thing I'm sure about is the way it looks on mine.

You may know this already but drain the bowl first. Nothing like unexpectedly bathing your hands in gas!

Later,
Shaggybob
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Old 06-12-2004, 05:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sidenote, saw your post in the sporty section about maybe changing carbs. If you like to spend money go ahead, but coming from someone who is 95% confident that he has finally removed all of the demons from his stock carb, it would simply be spending money.

All engines are different, and any carb will need tweaking to be right for the engine it's controlling. If you want to read one of the many long posts I've made today, which hopefully won't bring me infamy here, check out my last post in the sportster section titled, "Dynojet Needle Question." If you drink, grab a beer or 2 first, you may need them to get through it.

That post pretty well sums up how I spent a month's worth of free time very recently.
Later,
Shaggybob
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Old 06-13-2004, 10:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Way cool Shaggybob,
yes I have been thinking about what you said about keeping the original carburetor. Actually I set the mix back to about 2 1/2 turns and it ran very well last night only one or 2 coughs in the first couple of min. of start up. I might turning it back another 1/4 turn and seeing if it was even better today...just don't want to run her to lean. What do you think about crankcase breather kits? Sure would be nice to get rid of the oil in the ham can!!! That is why I was thinking if I go with an S&S carborator kit it would come with breather, carborator, crankcase kit for about $319.00. But then again chrome is nice.... but it won't get you home!!!! $319.00 would buy a real nice set of pipes too!!!
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Old 06-13-2004, 03:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
IronButt
 
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Buy the pipes! The CV will get the job done, it will just take a chunk of money for dyno time, or a chunk of time to play, or maybe both.

I'm using both, dyno run to check my starting point after making the initial changes, and to point me the right way. Burning up ride time with constant little tweaks and stops and checks and more of the same. Now I'll run it on the same dyno on th 19th, just to be sure. If it looks good, I'm not turning any more wrenches on this thing, except for PM stuff.


Chaserband, I'm giving fair notice, I'm rambling after this point. Trying to decide, do I go out and ride in the rain or not.

On a down note. After Friday's ride I was feeling really good about the current carb settings, she was a rocket all day. Didn't even start the bike yesterday(mental note, If you had used sunblock on Friday, you wouldn't have been parked Saturday). Then there was this morning.

After doing the oil change Thursday night I decided to finish my 5000 service this morning. I couldn't help myself, before I knew it the plugs were coming out. What I found was the front plug looked great! The rear plug was really carbon black.

I did not change anything, trying to remain calm and focused. Except for major mechanical issues, I cant see why one plug would look 180 degrees opposite of the other. It's too new for major stuff, right?

What I'm hoping has happened is this, but it's long.

Since I live on a big hill, and have to use a nasty, washed out, used to be paved before I was born, then was tar and gravel, now is barely a road, to get to my driveway. Then my driveway is also up hill but not trashed just parked cars. Then, to get to my garage I have to ride bewtween mine and my wife's cars, if I hit hers I'm toast.

Anyway, Friday when I got home I had to use a lot of clutch, gas, and rear brake to get her between the cars, they were way too close, and inside the garage. I'm hoping that all that has happened was I loaded up the rear cylinder doing all the manuevering, causing the carbon build up(please, please, please).

I guess we'll soon see if I get to close the book on this thing, or just start a new chapter.........To be continued(and hopefully concluded).

Later,
Shaggybob
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Old 06-14-2004, 10:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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As Shaggy said, all engines are different. I have an '04 1200R and am running a 190, a 45 and 2-3/4 turns out with great results. I have an SE AC and Cycle Shack slip ons.
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Old 06-14-2004, 11:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
IronButt
 
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Well I think I got it

I have the mix screw set at 2 1/4 turns out and she is running like a bat out of hell!!! Just a lot of tinkering and plug checking to find the correct settings. Thanks for all the help!

Now that I am thinking of new pipes it is all going to change carburetor setting again correct?

What about trying to keep that blow bye-bye from the ham can. Anyone got a secret on this problem? Crank case vents seem to be a practice and not a cure yet.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hey guys, sorry to jump in here, but helping a buddy out with a 2004 1200R. The problems he was having, from a stop to take off, it would sputter and not have full power off the line. Also, the engine light would occasionally come on when sputtering and act worse :s. Bike sat for quite some time and carb was never cleaned or we dont know when jets were replaced. When you guys are talking about turning screw out 2 3/4 turns, which screw might this be and location on the carb? Also he has Vance n Hines Staggered Short Shots, with a Vance n Hines air cleaner. Seeing 45 for the one jet and 185 for the other. Kind of new to the carb and not sure which is the main and which is the pilot? Also, is there only two jets and which one controls high speed and which one controls low and also location on the carb if you would. Thanks for the help hope to hear back from someone

Last edited by 2013SG; 12-09-2012 at 10:25 AM. Reason: Sent before completed
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Nitram_b4 is reading this now saying WTF is this?
Go here, saves me typing
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
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