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Actually, the usual starting point for the mixture screw on a CV carb is 1.5 to 2 turns out.
It has been my experience that modified slides (drilled, extra holes, etc.) doesn't really gain you anything but headaches. Theoretically, it is supposed to make the slide lighter & make the throttle respond quicker, but won't give you any power increase whatsoever. If the slide is too light, the throttle will "wander" a bit - surge, etc. instead of holding a constant rpm at constant throttle.
If your bike is anywhere near stock - still 80" and just mild performance tuning - you should use a 45 or 46 slow jet, and a 180 or 185 main jet. Don't go crazy monkeying with the needle jet, as it'll cause trickle-down issues with the other 2 circuits.
With the needle jet set in stock position, use a stock slide, and start with a 45/180 combo and 2 turns out on the idle mixture screw.
If it stumbles or coughs immediately off idle, try going out another 1/2 turn on the idle mix. If that doesn't cure it, move up to a 46 slow jet, and go down to 1.5 turns out on the idle mix screw. It is a tedious process, but pretty straightforward.
If the engine gets "flat" between 4-5000rpm, you might need to go up a main jet size. Between 4000rpm & redline is where you'll need to see if your main jet is big enough.
If your bike coughs or stumbles in between 2000 & 4000 rpm, then you can start monkeying with your needle jet. Until then, don't bother. Only make one change at a time, then test it for about 15 minutes. Keep track of what changes you're doing, and you'll have that sucker dialed in, no problem.
I know you probably have, but double-check all the manifold fittings to ensure everything is sealed. Do the old WD-40 test, and make sure you aren't trying to tune your carb & compensate for a vacuum leak.
Good luck!
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Danny
Black Betty
1988 FXRP
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