Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillside
I'd pull 3-4 degrees of timing out, and set the carb with a 45 pilot and 175 main, air idle screw at 3 turns out.
This is only BASELINE timing/jetting. It should help. 
Scott
|
Thanks for the comeback. I do have a 45/180 setup in the cv right now, but I'm using the almost straight fat sportster needle in the slide. It ran fine before the headwork and new ignition. The only reason I had to change ignition modules is because I broke the magnetic pickup on the back side of the mounting plate. I couldn't find the same brand, so I settled for an Ultima 644. Only thing is, I have a hard time with the directions on setting the timing with a light. I can static time it but I would like to check it with a light. To me, the instructions leave something to be desired. And I can't talk to a tech from Ultima cause they don't deal with retail. The dealer I bought it from says he don't time with a light, only static timing. The instructions say that I have to ground the wire that goes to the voes! Sheez, I have to take my tank off and ground the wire and then put the tank back on, try to time it and then take the tank off and reconnect the voes and then put the tank back on. What a deal. There's got to be a better way. The advance curves are built in to the module, but I want to see for myself with a light in the window that I am reaching my optimum advance. You have any other thoughts on this timing thing?? BTW, I checked for intake leaks couple of hours ago. No leaks that I could detect. If my timing is retarded, will that make the bike run hot and lean?? Thanks, Alan