Where to start?

[96FXD]

Run problems with my Superglide, I'll start with what led up to the problems I'm having.

On an upper 90's hot day I rode from Kansas City too Springfield non-stop 2 1/2 hours. I made a few stops in Springfield (HOT DAY) after the last stop I started the bike and it was hard starting (out of the blue) and wouldn't stay running without cracking the throttle and keeping it up at a high RPM, try and let it idol and it will just miss and pop and die.
I can make it run and start off and as long as I keep a lode on it, it runs great, as long as I'm accelerating and quick shifting up through the gears it seems like normal but as soon as I try and level off it just misses and pops and tries to die. I can come to a stop and keep it running by cracking the throttle and keeping the RPM’s up then start out again and it runs great as long as I’m accelerating up through the gears.
Now that I have the bike home I can start the bike cold but I have to keep the choke up and run at a high RPM. If I choke it long enough and warm it up it will do the same thing, as long as I’m accelerating it seems to fire and run great but try and level off or idle and it’s over.
Any thoughts, fuel, electric?

[yomomma]

Sounds like the all too common vacuum leak.
Do you know how to test this with a can of WD-40 or choke cleaner?

[96FXD]

Originally Posted by yomomma

Sounds like the all too common vacuum leak.
Do you know how to test this with a can of WD-40 or choke cleaner?

That's a thought and no I haven't heard of vacuum leak testing with WD-40 or choke cleaner. If you could be so kind as to enlighten me it would be greatly appreciated.

[Buddy Seat]

Testing for intake leaks:

Run motor & let it idle & spray fluid thoroughly around intake flanges & carb mounting seal..

With WD-40 (it's non-flamable) so U listen for a change in rpms to go lower..If rpms go lower = Leak

With carb or choke clean (IS flamable) so U listen for rpms to increase..If rpms go higher = Leak

When spraying be careful to not let any get near the backing plate of the carb, if it sucks in any you will get false readings..

A word of caution: continued use with bad intake leaks create Xtra LEAN conditions & possibly burn a valve or a piston.

[Buddy Seat]

Additional info:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/tips_air_leaks.htm

[Grinder]

I agree sound like a leak...

[96FXD]

I took the bike in to the stealer after my testing couldn’t prove any thing definite for me.
9/12/08 I got it back with a ticket stating “Cleaned carb float bowl, jets and reset idle mixture, and idle“.$82.00.
Three weeks later it starts the same crap so I take it back. I get a call back and they say it needs a new intake, carberator and throttle cable. In order to change out the old Bendix carberator they will need to change the intake and throttle cable. I tell them no, I cant do that now I’ll be back to pick it up.
When I go to pick it up there’s a small silicone coated copper colored cap taped to the ticket and they say this is the problem and you’ll need a new carberator. I asked where this cap goes and they said right on top of the carberator. I asked about the silicone on it and they said Wa Wa we didn’t do that.





When I get the bike home I take the small cap clean it up and tap it back down in the hole on top of the carberator, best I can with out removing the tank and the bike ran fine.
I always take digital photos when I take something apart for reference in reassembly. I found this first photo in my files from 2004 the first time I cleaned and reoiled the K&N air filter.
NO SILICONE





I found this next photo in my files from only days before I first took the bike in for their diagnoses and repair. I took this photo when I was considering taking this carberator off and trying to find leaks myself.
NO SILICONE





Long story short, I removed the tank so I could get a good strike on top of this cap and peen it down in the hole again then covered it with a quality gas & oil safe Permatex ( PERMATEX 2 FORM : A GASKET SEALANT) non hardening pliable sealant.
Many months and thousands of miles later the old junk Bendix carberator works fine.




It’s my understanding this hole in the top of the carberator is a manufacturing necessity for drilling small air lines in the carberator, it is then caped in final assembly.
This cap worked it’s way loose and three weeks is all the stealer could make a repair last, then tell me I need a new carberator.

I like to think I'm not Plum.

[Faast Ed]

I like to think I'm not Plum.

You sure convinced me!

Way to share some knowledge!

Thanks.

[Dave63]

And dealers wonder why people hate them, or just don't trust them......

[claydbal]

96 fxd, print those photos and go see the GM at the dealership. back his ass up and make it clear that they cant steal anymore.

[96FXD]

I don’t know that I really want to get into some sh!t with them, they basically diagnosed my problem for $82.00. I could have done a lot of things to this bike and not realized it was as simple as this. They may very well have put some silicone on this cap and did nothing else to the carberator the first time in.
I didn’t let them steal me for a big $$$ carberator replacement.
I still find them to be the cheapest place to have tires mounted and balanced and the like.
I still have my old Kawasaki LTD and there cheaper on tire repairs than the local import dealers.
I avoid auto dealers and the rest as best I can, Forums like this help allot. After air and vacuum leak responses to my original post I realized right away after seeing their cheap silicone fix lasted a short time that this was my problem and I didn‘t need a need a new carberator.
If I get into a big STINK with someone I trust them even less they can become just flat spiteful.
I may have to carefully use them again sometime.

[ponderopa]

Wise move. Don't burn bridges unless you just can't stand it.