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07-10-2008, 08:45 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 287
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Anyone experienced with rebuild of 87 EVO starters?
I'd like to remove and clean/ put in new brushes and starter clutch drive. Wondering if anyone has done this on a 1987 FLHTC.
looks easy enough. also going to replace the starter relay and starter selonid. Looks like all original parts.. having some starting problem with clicking etc. want to fix that issue.
Still have issues after replacement on solenoid, now clicks alot more and
sounds like the drive gear isn't engaging the cluch drive gear.
battery is good and connections seam to be clean and tight. whats going on?
picture of my Harley in my profile now.
Last edited by Red02FXST : 07-16-2008 at 07:37 PM.
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07-10-2008, 08:18 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: maine
Posts: 242
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Its quite easy really if all things are good.Toughest part is getting the commutator through the brushes.If you have access to a growler it wouldn't hurt to do that.
As for the solenoid,getting the pits out of the brass contacts is about it.Good luck, Ron
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07-11-2008, 09:19 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kansas City, Mo.
Posts: 463
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Red it could be a much simpler fix that you might want to consider before pulling the starter. Pull the small wire off the starter that comes from the relay. Touch a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to that terminal where you pulled the wire off the starter. Use at least a 12 to 14 guage jumper wire. If it spins every time with out any clicking, chances are it's the relay or the wire coming from the relay to the starter needs to be replaced with a heavier one and a new terminal on the starter end of the wire.
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07-13-2008, 10:40 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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FNG :)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: San Bruno, California 94066
Posts: 3
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I had similar Clicking problems on my 87 FLHTC and finally replaced the separate solenoid. This fixed the problem in 10 minutes.
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07-14-2008, 08:28 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: maine
Posts: 242
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If it is just clicking.. the relay on my 87 was mounted underneath on the rear fender and was upsidedown and would fill with water. When it finally died,all I would get would be clicks.I replaced it with a unit that is sealed and I think it was for a Saab or Volvo.Never had another problem.Good luck.Ron
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07-16-2008, 07:38 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 287
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[Still have issues after replacement on solenoid, now clicks alot more and
sounds like the drive gear isn't engaging the cluch drive gear.
battery is good and connections seam to be clean and tight. whats going on?
picture of my Harley in my profile now.[/quote]
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07-17-2008, 08:03 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kansas City, Mo.
Posts: 463
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Have you tried the jumper like I suggested here?
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07-17-2008, 09:15 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROY YOUNG
Have you tried the jumper like I suggested here?
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not sure how to do this? The starter and solenoid are seperate.
There is one lug on the starter and 3 lugs on the solenoid.
please explain!
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07-17-2008, 12:40 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kansas City, Mo.
Posts: 463
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Red one of the small terminals on the new solenoid that you installed has a wire that goes directly to a relay. I don't happen to know where the relay is located on your '87, but, these are wired in such a way that there does not have to be alot of amperage going through the handlebar switches and to the solenoid. This is the purpose of the relay. You originally get voltage from the ignition switch to the handlebar on-off switch, then when the handlebar starter button is pushed or closed, it sends voltage from the starter button to the relay. From the relay, it sends the voltage straight to the solenoid. The only purpose of the handlebar starter button is to send a signal to the relay. The relay has it's own supply of voltage. The reason for this is there is alot of amperage draw when you enguage the starter. If not for the relay, you would have to have alot more robust switches and heavier guage wiring from the switch, through the handlebar, and on to the starter solenoid. I hope this enlightens you some because I've never felt I was very good at explaining things.
Now, first find the small wire on the solenoid that lights your test light when you hit the starter button. Remove this wire from the solenoid. Next, take a 12-14 guage jumper wire, touch it to the positive post on the battery, and the other end to the terminal that you removed from the solenoid. If indeed the engine spins over like it's supposed to, we now know that the relay we were talking about earlier is bad, or, the wire coming from the relay to the solenoid is bad, or, you need a new terminal on the wire where it attaches to the solenoid. When I say bad, the wire may look fine just looking at it, but over the years wires can corrode internaly, and not carry the proper amperage. It could very well be showing 12 volts, but not carrying enough amperage. A good comparison between voltage and amperage is like a garden hose running a full stream of water out the end. Voltage is the full stream, but amperage is compared to it shooting out the end 1 foot or ten foot. If the issue remains the same, chances are it's the starter.
Now, lets say that you determine it's the relay and replace it. Maybe that will totaly cure your problem. But lets say you replace the relay and it's better, but still acting up on occasion. Your next step would be to run a heavier guage wire (12-14 guage) from the relay to the solenoid.
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07-17-2008, 12:51 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kansas City, Mo.
Posts: 463
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Red when I say in the second paragragh to touch the other end of the jumper wire to the terminal that you removed from the solenoid, I should have said touch it to the terminal on the solenoid where you removed the wire from.
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07-17-2008, 03:05 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 287
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Roy. Thank you for the explaination. Somebody once told me "clear as Mud".
all kidding aside a good explaination. I just have to find the wire from the stater
relay to solenoid ( small lug on solenoid). can do that with ohm meter an switch off.
don't think this is the trouble but will try it to learn.
I charged the battery today. fully charged. over 12 volts and don''t get much drop
when stater switch is engaged maybe a volt or 2 but not below 9.6 volts I found from troubleshooting... sounds more like the starter gear not egaging in clutch ring gear, just spinning and not turning motor over.
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07-17-2008, 03:51 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kansas City, Mo.
Posts: 463
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Maybe your starter drive?
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07-17-2008, 07:39 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 287
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According to the service manual I need the overrunning clutch.
guess that is the starter drive that engages on the clutch ring gear.
I took off the primary cover...yep... well tommorrow I order the part
and take off the starter.
don't know any other way.
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07-18-2008, 02:00 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 287
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Well guess what forum readers.. It is the bendix gear drive on the end of the
starter. I talked to a good ole boy today so to speak, been workin' on Harley's
for 35 years. In MDO Gaithesburg Md. I have a belt drive on my 87 EVO
that will require removeing the primary cover, the compensor drive, belt, clutch
and gear unit just to get at the starter drive. also the solenoid has to come out again
after I have replaced it too.
Well I hope everyone who reads this wil learn from it. lots of work to get this bendix drive out.. don't have to remove starter. there is a C clip on drive too...
Kenny
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