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Old 12-12-2010, 11:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Can't decide which cam

I thought I had decided on the EV27, but I've been reading about the EVL3010. I have a 1996 FLSTN with Straight Shots, SE ignition, Big Sucker & CV performance kit. I mostly ride 2up on highway. Looking for the best bang for the buck with quietest set up. Probably going with the V Thunder lifters. Any feedback would be great. Thanks
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The EV-46 is also very good for that type of riding. It will also respond well to mild compression increases.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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makes for a nice,mild build.set compresion at 9.8-1.S&S .520 is also a good choice set at same compresion
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You will want to keep your intake close early if you are not increasing compression.
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Both of you guys call for mild compression increases with the EV46. I'm considering that cam as well as the EV27 and or the 3020. Does that mean keeping CR under 10-1?

I live at 7000 feet and ride up to 11000 nearly every weekend, due to the lack of air up here most engines tend to develop less cranking pressure and also less hp than they would at or closer to sea level. I don't want to constantly be adding octane boosters or worse melting pistons so would 8.5-1 pistons with .030 off the decks be a better solution for me than just dropping in a set of 10-1 forged pistons?
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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10.0-1 is a bit much for the 27,but the 46 will respond very well to it. (8.5-1 with a .030 head gasket wont get you close to 10.0-1)
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I took .045 off the heads on my brothers Heritage and put in an ev13 and .030 head gasket. It was cheap and turned out well. Decent low end torque with improved mid range. He is 240lbs, so went witht he ev13 instead of the ev27. I think the ev27 would have given him a much better mid and upper power. Sounds like you are doing two up riding, so you probably want to focus on low end torque. As prodrag said, you could go with an ev46 if you go with the 10-1 pistons, which would give you more mid and upper power, while hopefully keeping your low end torque. All depends on your budget. I personally would go with more cubic inches, but that's more money.
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Rc, I'm staying away from more cubes if I can. The bike is an FXRS with 13K on it so I'm not crazy about splitting the cases at this point but it has very low cranking pressure at present. I checked my comp tester and found the guage reads 10# low but that still only gave me 105# on both cylinders at 7000 feet of elevation.

PO had the bike in storage in Dallas for over 6 years before I bought it and I'm trying to sort it out... I did pressurize each cylinder at tdc and the only leak I could hear was from the exhaust valves both cylinders. From what I can see there's a bunch of carbon built up in the exhaust ports and piston tops.

In summary, I'll ride this bike every weekend up to 1000 miles a weekend with my wife, raingear a camera and extra clothes. Mostly twisty secondary roads through the mountains 5500-11000' elevation. I like to ride briskly at times, and I don't want to wait till 3000 rpm for the power to come on. Essentially I'd like to optimize this motor for power and reliability. With that in mind, I've got an SE air cleaner, rejetted CV (and a Quicksilver II waiting in the wings) with a Vance and Hines Pro Pipe, SE Ignition module with the F curve and 8000 limit (yeah right... I'm looking for the logical next step and I'd appreciate all of your thoughts...
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Sounds like the next step to get what your asking for is head work, pop up pistons, and appropriate cam. No need to go bigger with this. Go to the R&R web site and look at the dyno graphs for stage 2 and stage 4, see how the torque pops up. With the right head work you can up the compression for your altitude without ill effects.
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks Randy, thanks to all who responded. I'm budgeting 2-3K for the motor end of things. I'm also planning a clutch upgrade and smaller rear pulley (66 vs stock 70 tooth) but I want to be darned sure the engine can pull the gears in mountainous terrain. I really appreciate everyones help here. I'll have more questions once I get the top end pulled, kinda procrastinating on that presently, weather's been in the 40's here with NO SNOW to speak of below 8000'. If I can ride I sure want to! ;-) Hope to ride at least a little on New Years Day, then we can get to work...
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnbow View Post
I'm also planning a clutch upgrade and smaller rear pulley (66 vs stock 70 tooth) but I want to be darned sure the engine can pull the gears in mountainous terrain.
Standard rear pulley sizes for evo era bikes is 65 or 70 tooth.

BigBoyz would be a really good place to send your heads. Can't beat them for the price.
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Another excellent choice would be Kirby at VeeTwin Performance. Kirby knows his way around a set of Evo heads and doesn't charge a fortune.
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Old 12-20-2010, 04:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Cam

Im still listed as a newbie so I cant sell anything here. If you want to try a HD L Grind Cam I have a few of them I have been sitting on for a while. I put one in my FLHTP, cometic .30 gaskets and heads shaved (.10 if I remember correctly) and it runs sweet and doesnt ping at all.
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Old 01-20-2011, 12:53 AM   #14 (permalink)
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John5395,

Well this is a bit "older" THREAD so perhaps your "ship" has already sailed. You were wondering which cam to run in your 96 Heritage Softail Nostalgia....(which by the way is one of my favorite bikes for sure), if I have my "facts" straight that bike weighs in @ around 790 lbs right? Also isn't the final gearing @ 2.925 or is it at 3.15, actually can't remember for sure. You mention doing 2 up riding alot so here would be a suggestion:

With this "heavy" of a bike combined with an "evo" power plant, and given that you are only running 80 ci and providing you aren't interested in "splitting" your cases to get much larger ci involved, I would concentrate on when, where, and how much "torque" you can build up and how "quickly" you can get it, so if that were my bike I would concentrate on "low end" torque, and the horse power will follow.

To get your greatest "bang" I would suggest looking at an entire package.......here is what it might look like:

1) Andrews EV 23 which has an intake close angle of 30 degrees which will cause the cam to come on as far to the "left" as possible and and @ around 2400 rpms. The lift of the Andrews EV 23 is @ .495" So because of the smaller/lower "lift" I would get what some have affectionately "labled" as "stilts" called Screamin Eagle Pro High Lift Rocker Arms cost of which are around $150.00 after a 20% discount HD dealer is used. This will effectively raise the "lift" of the EV 23 from .495" to around .532" lift which will create a very nice response and still allow you to have a good spring set up in your heads without getting into more heavier duty springs which is a good compromise.

2) I would get your heads done and install a 1.90" intake valve and run springs at around 165 lbs, get the heads flowed before work is done and after you will be looking for around 255-260 CFM @ 28" @
.600" lift which will result in around 215-220 CFM when your OEM CV 40 mm carb and manifold are attached, which is about all the air flow your OEM CV 40 mm carb can handle anyway, so no sense looking for any bigger numbers out of your heads any way.

3) Select a JE 9.5:1 "Domed" Piston which will be able to be "miiled" down to get you to a 9.0:1 “CORRECTED COMPRESSION". The dome on this piston is some where between 14 -14.6 cc's and depending on the "blue printing" may get milled down to 12 cc's which for a good machine shop is no big deal. Using a .040" Head Gasket would be a decent match for this build as well which would mean researching and making sure the heads chamber cc volume numbers match up to accomodate the 9.0:1 "CORRECTED COMPRESSION" I previously mentioned as well.

4) Select a good exhaust pipe and it will add to the overall build using the wrong pipe could take away from the results.

So the goal and results from this build would be getting your 790 lb bike plus 2up riders and + gear off to a quicker start, the appropriate head work combined with the high lift rockers will compliment the objective and at the end of the day will put a nice "smile" on your face.

Only doing a "cam" alone, if selected wrong could take "away" from your current OEM "stock" performance..... hard to believe but it could.

Another cam to give considetation to would be a V-THUNDER EVL 5000 which would remove the need for high lift rockers since the lift of the EVL 5000 is (I believe) .568" and the intake close angle is 33 degrees which is also quite close to the 30 degree intake close angle of the Andrews EV 23.

I would not choose the EVL 3010 or 3020 as both of their intake close angles which are 39 and 42 are much too late for the objectives of your needs.

So there you have it, "AN OPINION" lol

Regards,

"Classic"

Last edited by ClassicRider; 01-20-2011 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 01:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Woodnbow,

For your FXR, which weighs in at under 600 lbs and has I believe 3.37 final gearing, I would give serious consideration to some of the elements I mentioned in my post above but giving consideration to 1 of 2 cams:

A) V-THUNDER EVL 3000, which has a lift of '508" even though the marketing of the cam states that is a .500“ which if one does the appropriate math and uses the right/correct figures to calculate the lift the error of their marketing materials will be discovered. The intake close angle is 34 degrees. Because of the weight of the FXR the 4 degrees to the right will work just fine as compared to say a 30 degree intake close angle which is preferred for a heavier bike as is the description of the "original" poster of this THREAD. If this cam were indeed chosen I would "definitely" combine it's use with the "stilts" as mentioned above.

I "absolutely" know that the "recommendation" of a 3000 is "unheard" of but I have personal experience with the EVL 3010 and EVL 3020 in FXR's and they both come on too late for these bikes.....

B) The other choice to consider would be the EVL 5000 as was also mentioned above.

Regards,

"Classic"
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