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Old 08-28-2009, 02:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Help planning a build

I have a 98 RK that I would like to plan out a build. I am interested in a good streetable result that is reliable and a lot of fun. Around 90 HP and 90 ft lbs of torque. I reviewed nightrider.com and liked the stage 3 build but I need help putting it all together so my list is complete and well matched. I have a good idea regarding some of the components but several areas where I need some serious gaps filled in.

Here is the list of things that I am fairly certain of:

Mikuni HSR 42 carburetor
K&N High flow air filter
Andrews EV 27 or Woods W6H Cam
Torrington B-138 cam bearing
Screamin' Eagle Adjustable Pushrod Kit - Chrome Moly
Nose-Cone Gasket
James Gasket set

Now the list of things I am not so certain of:
Cylinders bored to .020+ with JE Pistons and rings
Port heads by Flo Head Works with dual plugging
Power Arc ignition

Should run nice and cool with plenty of power for a long time.

Thoughts and suggestions?
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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well sounds like you got a good idea on how to go about it.. there is a big difference between your 2 cam choices... if you look at my build mine is a 98 E-GLide i love the 6H cam i had the EV-27 in and wanted more.. mine is however a stroker build.

i think boring the cylinders is a good idea with a good piston choice, i use the DynaTec ignition and it has worked well with tuning ... if you give Scott up at hillside a call, or any other builder from this sight, they can give ya an idea of what to expect from different choices..
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I reviewed the specs for the W6H and they are substantially different than the EV27. I would like to keep the compression as low as possible. I would like to see an upper end of 9.5 and would the W6H cam kick in at that level. Also does it take additional head work to be able to support a lift of .590? I guess the EV27 is more comparable to Woods W6. I do a lot of commuting at 70 freeways so I want to have plenty of power in the midrange and while sacrificing as little bottome end torque as possible.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Doubt you'll see 90/90 with an EV27 and anyone's heads.
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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th 6H likes more compression than that i think Scott has mine dialed in at a 10.5... it has great mid range power but i dont think you want that much compression...

the W6 should be closer to your liking, like i said give Scott a call and talk to him about your riding habits and needs, he can help you out more than i can..... (315) 495-6650...

i think with the right head work to work with the cam you select you can get close to your goals
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Mikuni 42
heads Hillside valve job port and polish.. 200 ccp
1.90 int 1.625 ex
Wood W6-H cam
DynaTech 2000 ignition
big sucker with zippers big filter
D&D Fat Cat ... fast black
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Did a little research and I think a set of 9.5 to 1 JE pistons would work nicely. Compression is one area where I thought there might be more discussion. How does compression affect the durability of a build. I would be really interested in gaining an understanding of that before I make the discussion. I see a lot of posts regarding starter issues with compression starting much above 10.
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:52 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Why dual plug the heads?
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Old 08-29-2009, 09:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I think most will agree that you don't need dual plugs.
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Old 08-29-2009, 01:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I was sort thinking we don't need dual plug heads myself. How much of an effect does a good even burn that a dual plug head add to making the bike run cool and be fuel efficient. These are all good answers to the questions. I was surprised at how relatively inexpensive this option was. At the price if it helps at all then it might not be that bad of an option. You can spend more on an air cleaner cover by far.
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsachs View Post
Doubt you'll see 90/90 with an EV27 and anyone's heads.
John
I agree. I think it will be closer to 80 than it will be to 90 with an ev27. I did serveral different build combinations with my 80" and then stroked to an 88". Stoked out it had around 95. That said, 80 torque is still a lot more fun than what came from the factory

What is your budget?
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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For ignitions, I would go with something like a daytona twin tech that fits in the same location as your factory module and uses existing wiring. Putting an ignition module in the cam cover will subject it to more heat, more vibration and require some rewiring. If you run it dual fire, you can use your old module as a spare. The Power Arc doesn't seem as easy as those with preset curve selections via swithes. Instead you will have to hook up to a computer and program it. The daytona twin tech can also be programmed with a computer if you want a custom map, but most find the preset curves work with most engine configurations.
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Old 08-30-2009, 11:09 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcsoftail View Post
I agree. I think it will be closer to 80 than it will be to 90 with an ev27. I did serveral different build combinations with my 80" and then stroked to an 88". Stoked out it had around 95. That said, 80 torque is still a lot more fun than what came from the factory

What is your budget?
I think my budget it around $2500 for the whole shooting match. I would like to do it in phases.

Phase 1: Convert from EFI to carb. I know how to do that and it should be roughly $600 - $800.

Phase 2: Install the cam with adjustable push rods and the little things that go with that. That is why an EV27 or W6 work well.

Phase 3: Port the heads and have the cylinders board and up the compression. This is waiting till it needs it in. Plenty of of little boost on the way to keep me tinkering.

I think you are right about the out come of the horse power. I was basing the numbers on the nightrider site. Most of these things I feel I can do myself and would like to reduce my budget and learn more at the same time.
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Old 08-30-2009, 12:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcsoftail View Post
For ignitions, I would go with something like a daytona twin tech that fits in the same location as your factory module and uses existing wiring. Putting an ignition module in the cam cover will subject it to more heat, more vibration and require some rewiring. If you run it dual fire, you can use your old module as a spare. The Power Arc doesn't seem as easy as those with preset curve selections via swithes. Instead you will have to hook up to a computer and program it. The daytona twin tech can also be programmed with a computer if you want a custom map, but most find the preset curves work with most engine configurations.
Thank you for that bit of advice. I guess I don't see the need to relocate anything that I don't have to. I will add that to my list of parts.
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I was putting together the part list for installing an Andrews EV 27 cam and have some questions for the experts. Keep in mind the bike has 47K on it.

1. Do you need special tools for this step. I see some available and it might cost more in tools than the actual parts!

2. Is there any other common issues that should be dealt with why I am down there? I was going to install adjustable push rods. Tappet replacement? Oil pump issues?
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:51 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I would do the EV3 with adjustable pushrods. The Stage 2 cnc ported R&R heads will get you around 95 torque, 90 horse with a nice flat torque curve.
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