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Old 04-03-2009, 04:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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ignition choices

what is a good ignition for a 92 evo with new pistons, punched out jugs, headwork, stage 7 cv, runin a redshift 575, and trouble maker pipes?
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Old 04-03-2009, 05:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have used daytona twin tec, dyna, crane (bankrupt), spyke and compu-fire. Both in the cam cover and external. Also single fire and dual fire. My preference has been crane and daytona twin tec. If I were to buy today, it would be an external factory style fit module from daytona twin tec. The ones that fit in the cam cover are fine, but I would rather not subject it the the heat and vibration if I don't have to. I prefer single fire over dual fire, but dual fire is ok as long as you get a good burn in the cylinders. Dual fire would also be the cheapest and easiest route since you don't neeed a new coil or any rewiring, plus you can use your old module as a spare. I also use the voes switch with the vacum set at 5.5 since I tour alot and have a modified engine with higer comperession and large cam. Many people don't use the voes, which is ok if your just racing around town.

I am currently running a dyatona twin tec as are many of my freinds. It has all the features anyone would need and are reliable. They also have a very linear curve (due to the large number of steps) instead of a stepped one. Some of the stepped ones only use about 4 different steps like 0-1500 rpm at 10 degrees, 1500-2500 at 20 degrees, 2500-3500 at 30 degrees and 3500+ at 35 degrees, which I have verified with a timing light. You can even create your own custom advance curve with a daytona twin tec if you buy the software and cables. R&R cycles modules are also made by daytona twin tec and have some extra programming in them.

In the end, most of them have the same features and do the same thing, which is to create a spark at the right time. Most should fit your need. Just comes down to money and how fancy you want to get.
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Old 04-03-2009, 05:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Based on dyno tuning many different EVO engine sizes and combos my opinion is keep it simple using a electronic unit with mechanical advance like Dyna S or Tucker Rocky's Twin Power system will work better than some might think it would. Save all the fancy ignition systems to the race bike guy's. This type system it extremely helpfully on kick start bikes also
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Old 04-03-2009, 06:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcsoftail View Post
I have used daytona twin tec, dyna, crane (bankrupt), spyke and compu-fire. Both in the cam cover and external. Also single fire and dual fire. My preference has been crane and daytona twin tec. If I were to buy today, it would be an external factory style fit module from daytona twin tec. The ones that fit in the cam cover are fine, but I would rather not subject it the the heat and vibration if I don't have to. I prefer single fire over dual fire, but dual fire is ok as long as you get a good burn in the cylinders. Dual fire would also be the cheapest and easiest route since you don't neeed a new coil or any rewiring, plus you can use your old module as a spare. I also use the voes switch with the vacum set at 5.5 since I tour alot and have a modified engine with higer comperession and large cam. Many people don't use the voes, which is ok if your just racing around town.



I am currently running a dyatona twin tec as are many of my freinds. It has all the features anyone would need and are reliable. They also have a very linear curve (due to the large number of steps) instead of a stepped one. Some of the stepped ones only use about 4 different steps like 0-1500 rpm at 10 degrees, 1500-2500 at 20 degrees, 2500-3500 at 30 degrees and 3500+ at 35 degrees, which I have verified with a timing light. You can even create your own custom advance curve with a daytona twin tec if you buy the software and cables. R&R cycles modules are also made by daytona twin tec and have some extra programming in them.

In the end, most of them have the same features and do the same thing, which is to create a spark at the right time. Most should fit your need. Just comes down to money and how fancy you want to get.
what is the voes and what does it do?
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrider92 View Post
what is the voes and what does it do?

a Vacuum Operated Electric Switch that activates/deactivates the ignition advance

here's a link to: All you ever wanted to know about VOES, but were afraid to ask.....

http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_voes.html
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here's a good link explaining the voes.
http://www.mklsportster.com/xlvoes.htm
"What is the VOES? The VOES (for Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) is the old style trigger for the stock HD "V-Fire III" ignition on all EVO BTs and non-Sport EVO Sportsters. (By contrast TC88s and the '98+ Sportster Sport use the more advanced, superior "MAP Sensor" in place of the VOES). Essentially, this VOES switch has a small hose ("vac line" pictured above) connected between it and the carburator, from which it measures the level of intake vacuum. Based on this level, a signal is sent to the microprocessor in the ignition module, telling it to choose either of its two curves. The ignition module will choose a "retarded" or default curve for an engine under hard load or WOT, or an "advanced" curve under light load / cruising. The VOES signal on late model stock Sportster engines is set at approximately 4" of mercury."

The mechanical system rosacycles mentions utilizes spring loaded weights to determin the advance curve and an electronic sensor instead of points. As the engine rpm increase, the weights are pulled further out to centrifical forces. You can go with heavier or lighter springs to decrease or increase the slope of the curve. It will provide a curve similar to an electronic module that has the voes disconnected. Many use these systems to replace their original factory points system ignitions. They do produce a truly linear curve since it is mechanical. There are usually 10 curves to select from on an electronic ignition. Probably not as many spring combinations, but 10 curves is more than most people need. I am not sure what the reliability is of the springs/weights vs electronics is (I carry my factory module as a spare and also a spare coil). I am also not sure if the newer technology eliminates the need to clean and libricate the mechanical system to ensure the weights move freely. The mechanical systems usually require less voltage to operate during starting. I think the question comes down to your faith in electronic vs mechanical ignition systems, since they both accomplish the same thing.
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Old 04-03-2009, 10:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Put a Crane Hi-4 in it and be done with it. I ran that RS 575 cam for a few years in an 88" EVO with 10.5 compression. I bet your bike runs good. Who did your heads? Had it on the dyno yet?
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Old 04-04-2009, 12:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The crane hi-4 is a good ignition, very similar to the daytona twin tec in features and design. Maybe you can find a good deal on one since crane closed its doors the end of February.

"The automotive aftermarket has been hit hard in recent years, and the latest casualty of the economic downturn is Crane Cams. According to a report by the Florida News Journal, the 56-year-old manufacturer closed its doors yesterday and laid off the majority of its employees. Any calls to Crane to follow-up on the story have been shuttled off to the company's voice-mail service, although the Florida e-paper did talk to Dennis Burgess, who declined to comment."
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Didn't come on here to sell anything, but if you want one, I have a Crane Hi-4 single fire race module that I am no longer using. Let me know if your interested.
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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As an fyi, if you have a 1993, you should have a 7 pin adapter. They switched to an 8 pin adapter in the late 90's, but don't remember the exact year. This is only relevant if you go with the factory module replacement style.
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Old 04-27-2009, 12:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey econnor, i don't think i need the module but how about the single fire coil (8-3100)?
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Old 04-27-2009, 12:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have that coil on one of my bikes right now. No plans to pull it. I do have a new set of dual plug Dyna coils 3.0 Ohm (green) that I would like like to sell.
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You may want to consider the Ultima ignition currently on sale for $99.00 It has switches so you don't need the software package.

Weekly Specials Running 4/24/09 to 4/30/09
Mention E-Mail 4683 when calling in order

Programmable and Data Recording features require separate purchase of Software package.


Part # 53-644
$99.99

Ultima USA Made Ignition has intelligent overvoltage/overcurrent protection and adjustable retard timing. This ignition can be used with single or dual fire setups.

Programmable Features

8 Point fully definable wide open throttle curve.
8 Point fully definable part throttle curve.
Rev limit programmable in 50 rpm steps.
Programmable dead cranking revs 0-10
Programmable rear cylinder offset, total of +/- 10 Degrees.
Programmable rev limiter.
Separate programmable break-in rev limiter

Data Recording Features
Total Engine Hours.
Time at wide open throttle.
Numbers of engine starts (two minutes running time counts as one start.
Longest time operating at wide open throttle.
Maximum rpm.
Seconds near rev limit.
statistical analysis of time at rpm
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrider92 View Post
what is a good ignition for a 92 evo with new pistons, punched out jugs, headwork, stage 7 cv, runin a redshift 575, and trouble maker pipes?
Just curious, what compression are you running with that RS 575 cam? I ran that same cam in an 88" with 10.5 and the bike made 100hp with a thunderheader. I am not familiar with the trouble maker pipes, are they a 2 into 1?
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