Higher capacity oil pump => lower oil temps : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

ViennaHog · 05-05-2006, 06:45 AM

I run a 107" now and notice oil temps about 30F higher compared to the 95"/37G build before. Stop go city traffic regularly gets temps up to 260F. I am wondering if a Feuling pump with its higher capacity would reduce oil temps due to the higher circulation rate. Anybody out there with a swag?

LAF · 05-05-2006, 02:37 PM

How are you VH?

Not an exact comparison but with the Feuling pump and dino oil I have not been able to bring my temp over 220 It has only been 80 or so here in PA. I want to get another hundred or two on the dino and get the synth in and then see.

I am sure it wont hurt your bike any just your wallet a bit, but at your point what is another 2 Bens?

csoday · 05-06-2006, 06:32 AM

You should accomplish the same thing wwith the Baisley spring for $12. I'm running a 103 with original stock equipment plus the softail cooler and Syn3. Stays at 220 even in south Texas

Nickelboy · 05-06-2006, 08:23 AM

Where can ya find this Baisley spring??

ViennaHog · 05-06-2006, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csoday

You should accomplish the same thing wwith the Baisley spring for $12. I'm running a 103 with original stock equipment plus the softail cooler and Syn3. Stays at 220 even in south Texas

Baisley spring is already in, from former build. No oil cooler though

csoday · 05-07-2006, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ViennaHog

Baisley spring is already in, from former build. No oil cooler though

I love the softail cooler, extra oil capacity and tucks in between the downtubes. Plus no worries of increased oil misting that a larger volume oil pump might caause.

WildBill2566 · 05-07-2006, 04:40 AM

If you raise the pressure of the oil system and to get more flow you have to raise oil pressure, unless the bore of all the oilways is also increased(and I dont think thats feasable). You should consider the type of oil filter used and the pressure of the bypass valve. If pressure is raised the bypass valve could cause unfiltered oil to circulate the system. The bypass valve is necessary to prevent oil starvation in the event of a blocked or partially blocked filter, and in extreem cold where the thicker oil is unable to pass through the filter at a sufficient rate.

I'm not saying that this will happen, but its worth consideration IMHO.

Peacekeeper · 05-07-2006, 08:57 AM

Chuck,
How would an oil cooler increase the chances of misting? Does the cooler somehow effect scavenging?

How I understand the pressure bypass valve in the filter only opens upon a pressure differential between inlet and outlet, not max oil pressure. That’s what the pressure relief spring is for, I think.

Vienna Hog,
I had the same temps and the only way I could address it was with 2 jaggs and a crash bar cooler. It worked to good so I just took one of the Jaggs off and connected the crash bar to the return, switched to Amsoil and the oil temp stayed the same. ????????? Either the one Jagg was doing nothing or the Amsoil compensated for removing the one cooler. Try amsoil and a cooler. You have heavy mods but with a cooler, as Chuck said, and amsoil you may be able to get it down some. Good luck.

george douglas · 05-07-2006, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ViennaHog

I run a 107" now and notice oil temps about 30F higher compared to the 95"/37G build before. Stop go city traffic regularly gets temps up to 260F. I am wondering if a Feuling pump with its higher capacity would reduce oil temps due to the higher circulation rate. Anybody out there with a swag?

Adding an oil cooler, which increases the oil capacity, and use a good synthetic should help get your temperatures down some. Increasing oil pressure won't do it and may even increase the oil temperature. The Germans have been making mercedes live for years with large crankcase sumps, usually in the 8 quart area, and oil coolers on their vehicles.

ViennaHog · 05-07-2006, 12:21 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. I can't do a conventional oil cooler as it interferes with my crash guard. I think the crash guard to oil cooler conversion comes into the picture now. By the way I've been using Belray 10W50 Synthetic for years, should be an OK oil.

george douglas · 05-07-2006, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ViennaHog

Thanks for the replies guys. I can't do a conventional oil cooler as it interferes with my crash guard. I think the crash guard to oil cooler conversion comes into the picture now. By the way I've been using Belray 10W50 Synthetic for years, should be an OK oil.

At least with the Belray synthetic oil with the elevated oil temps you should be OK.

Peacekeeper · 05-07-2006, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ViennaHog

Thanks for the replies guys. I can't do a conventional oil cooler as it interferes with my crash guard. I think the crash guard to oil cooler conversion comes into the picture now. By the way I've been using Belray 10W50 Synthetic for years, should be an OK oil.

Vienna,
The Jagg mounts to the left downtube and shoudnt interfere with the crash bar. Combine that with the crash bar cooler with an extra 2 qt capacity you could reduce oil temps more than 50 deg f. I was running 270+ when stock now I have it down to 180 @ 80 deg outside temps. Was alot of trial and error but I got it down now.

ViennaHog · 05-07-2006, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peacekeeper

Vienna,
The Jagg mounts to the left downtube and shoudnt interfere with the crash bar. Combine that with the crash bar cooler with an extra 2 qt capacity you could reduce oil temps more than 50 deg f. I was running 270+ when stock now I have it down to 180 @ 80 deg outside temps. Was alot of trial and error but I got it down now.

Peacekeeper
Now that's an interesting alternative over the HD style oil cooler that mounts between the down tubes. What do you think about the low mount style?
http://www.jagg.com/JAGG1290.htm
Seems it needs a little protection from flying debris, I am thinking about something like a 'grille' . Is there a way to integrate a thermostat instead of the manual cut off valve?

Thanks for the hint.

Peacekeeper · 05-07-2006, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ViennaHog

Peacekeeper
Now that's an interesting alternative over the HD style oil cooler that mounts between the down tubes. What do you think about the low mount style?
http://www.jagg.com/JAGG1290.htm
Seems it needs a little protection from flying debris, I am thinking about something like a 'grille' . Is there a way to integrate a thermostat instead of the manual cut off valve?

Thanks for the hint.

I was running so hot I decided against the thermostat or bypass. I would probably opt for the bypass valve if I did do it. Dont trust the thermostats all that much. In cold weather I will just cover the cooler with a leather cover. The crash bar can be bypassed in 15 minutes by replacing the factory return hose between the rear of the cam chest to the tank. In colder weather, 50 or 60 in North carolina, it still came up on temp just took a little longer. I went with the side mount because I was concerned about road debris and airflow blockage from the front end. Airflow is full on the side mount and it works pretty good. I got the biggest drop in temp from the crash bar conversion though. Most probably from the added capacity and the longer tank time for the oil to dissipate the heat. Dont use the rubber hose that comes with the cooler, its really not that great. I am using all Earls fittings and Earls HP/HT vinyle braided racing hose.

dwarthog · 05-08-2006, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WildBill2566

If you raise the pressure of the oil system and to get more flow you have to raise oil pressure, unless the bore of all the oilways is also increased(and I dont think thats feasable). You should consider the type of oil filter used and the pressure of the bypass valve. If pressure is raised the bypass valve could cause unfiltered oil to circulate the system. The bypass valve is necessary to prevent oil starvation in the event of a blocked or partially blocked filter, and in extreem cold where the thicker oil is unable to pass through the filter at a sufficient rate.

I'm not saying that this will happen, but its worth consideration IMHO.

If you were to suspect that due to the addition of the baisley spring that the bypass valve in the filter was constantly be activated, what would some of the signs be?

Dirty oil after an oil and filter change and very few miles, say 300 or so?

And if this was indeed that case, are there other filters which would compensate for the increase in oil pressure from the addition of that spring?