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Old 06-08-2009, 10:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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should I use dino now?

my engine was rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. I used synthetic the whole time. I have some engine leaks starting (base gasket, rocker box) and I realized I should have used dino to swell the gaskets for the break-in. Is it too late? Can I add Lucas petroleum oil stabilizer and do the job or should I change it all back to dino? Does it even matter at this point? Thanks for the input!
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Good gaskets, assembled followinig torque sequence should not leak with syn oil or dino oil. I would focus on fixing the leaks.
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The oil is not the problem. Fix the leaks. After the 500 mile break-in did you go back and check the base bolts and re-torque to specification? 15-17 ft-lbs in sequence. That may do the trick.
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesc376 View Post
my engine was rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. I used synthetic the whole time. I have some engine leaks starting (base gasket, rocker box) and I realized I should have used dino to swell the gaskets for the break-in. Is it too late? Can I add Lucas petroleum oil stabilizer and do the job or should I change it all back to dino? Does it even matter at this point? Thanks for the input!
Matt
Faast Ed and Doc Ock gave you good advice. All oils have seal swell additives put in them so the base oil you use doesn't really matter and new gaskets will only leak from another problem not the oil.
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yep, a good build with good gaskets (how do you swell steel gaskets?) wont care what oil you use. take it back to the builder and make em fix the leaks!!!!!!!!!! it aint da oil, its the assembler!!!
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Old 06-08-2009, 06:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by claydbal View Post
yep, a good build with good gaskets (how do you swell steel gaskets?) wont care what oil you use. take it back to the builder and make em fix the leaks!!!!!!!!!! it aint da oil, its the assembler!!!
It makes me happy that I have a good assembler!!

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Old 06-08-2009, 08:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It makes me happy that I have a good assembler!!

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Old 06-08-2009, 09:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Faast Ed is an unknown quantity at this point
Follow that torque sequence like a bible! You will rarely ever have a leak.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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mesc376,

Since you mentioned it, on all the sportbike engines I've built, I run them up to 500 miles on dino oils after the rebuild, change the oil & filter, then run them another 1000 miles before making the change to synthetic's. With the lubricity that synthetics possess, they make a very poor (almost impossible) break in oil, and many times to get things to "seat", you have to switch back to dino oil to allow surfaces to "mate" for a short time.
When it comes to the gaskets, I don't know why they would seal with regular oil and not with synthetics. I've used both oils many times and have never seen a gasket that would leak with one and not the other, or visa versa.

On many of the machined mating surfaces that just require a "sealer", like the upper and lower cases of the sportbike engine blocks, I'd use Permatex "Ultra Copper". It's guaranteed to seal surfaces from the company, and believe me it works..........in many worst case scenarios too (gouged, or warped cases).
If your problem continues to be so and you have to tear down to fix it, clean the gaskets (degrease), as well as their mating surfaces, and put a light skim coat of it on the gaskets and reassemble. Torque as needed (and as previous posts recommended), and I'll guarantee you will see no leaks. The stuff is phenominal.

Hope this helps....
Bob

Last edited by bloaty57 : 06-20-2009 at 10:55 PM.
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