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Old 01-13-2013, 03:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
Seasoned Rider
 
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Dealer Fix ... replace 15 amp breaker with a 30 amp breaker

OK...I will make it quick...1996 Roadking...H/Lite breaker flicken on and off.....took to dealer, they call saying bad wire under seat, repositioned wire harnesses and fixed.....picked up scoot from dealer and handed over 300 dollars for repair...sure as heck no more flecken on the breaker.....Now winter has come and doing some planned work on scoot, toward end of riding season lost h/Beams, replacing bulb i see one prong on bulb burn't, insulator to the bulb melted, ordered new insulator and replaced.....backtracked to fusebox and found insulator to the lites melted at the fusebox....checkin box found dealers fix was a 30 amp replkacing a 15 amp breaker....ordered new fuse box....now my question, with the 30 amp the wire ran hot melting both connections at the lite and at the box....before tearing the wiring harness apart, any ideas where to go first finding the problem thats causing the heating...I have come to learn that the Dealer wants nothin to do with any old evos, s--t now i feel like second class.....bunch of idiots, last season after this fix i did a few long runs, thank the lord i never fried the wiring leaving me stranded.....
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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you need to run a heavier wire from the fuse box to the headlight . have you checked the
wireing for a short to ground. put the front wheel in the air & check around the neck for chaffeing as you turn the handlebard side-to-side. i had to insulate mine with a piece of old inner tube & safety wire it up so it wouldn't rub on my '09 tri-glide.
or go to a LED HEADLLIGHT TO DRAW LESS CURRENT.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanx for the reply i checked at the neck and all wires look good today i started the bike and at the fuse box where the lite fuse sits, there is a power wire and a blue wire, the blue wire gets really hot quick as does the fuse, checkin the repair manual it shows the blue wire going to everywhere, lite switch, fender lite and so many other spots, I am gonna have to trace that wire to weverywhere it goes, I have a feelin of a nightmare coming my way
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Your next accessory should be a large fire extinguisher.........actually, the dealer should have given that to you with the 30 amp fuse!!!
CHECK for a loose ground. You are pulling too much current on that circuit.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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sounds like your dealer is a dunce, i would at least go back to these morans and discuss with them. have a lawyer send them a letter.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sounds like a short to me. Have you added any accessories to that circuit? If yes I would disconnect them and see if the wire is still hot. Next I would disconnect all accessories being fed by that wire and add them back one at a time until the wire starts heating up again.

If you have added accessories its possible the extra current draw is to much for the wire and a larger diameter wire is necessary.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keye View Post

OK...I will make it quick...1996 Roadking...H/Lite breaker flicken on and off.....
took to dealer, they call saying bad wire under seat, repositioned wire harnesses and fixed.....picked up scoot from dealer and handed over 300 dollars for repair...sure as heck no more flecken on the breaker.....
Now winter has come and doing some planned work on scoot,
toward end of riding season lost h/Beams, replacing bulb i see one prong on bulb burn't, insulator to the bulb melted, ordered new insulator and replaced.....backtracked to fusebox and found insulator to the lites melted at the fusebox
....checkin box found dealers fix was a 30 amp replkacing a 15 amp breaker....ordered new fuse box....now my question, with the 30 amp the wire ran hot melting both connections at the lite and at the box....before tearing the wiring harness apart, any ideas where to go first finding the problem thats causing the heating...

I have come to learn that the Dealer wants nothin to do with any old evos, s--t now i feel like second class.....bunch of idiots, last season after this fix i did a few long runs, thank the lord i never fried the wiring leaving me stranded.....
Eh Keye

As you are aware your headlight circuit is carrying excess resistance, resistance will generate heat everytime & cause wires, connectors & relays to slowly deterioate to the point of melting.

Typically in a 12 volts system there are a few basic reasons an electrical malfunction will take place.

1. First there is what is known as an OPEN, that is where a wire or circuit dead ends due to a break in the load carrying wire & the circuit cannot be completed. This can also take place due to a faulty mechanical switch as in a headlight switch ..etc.

2. An UNINTENTIONAL GROUND which is often confused with or termed a Short. An unintentional ground is where the load carrying wire comes in contact with a ground, whether it be the frame or any other housing included in the ground circuit. It usually takes place when the protective coating or wire insulator has been chaffed or exposed to excess vibration resulting in the protective coating split, pinched or broken open.

3. A SHORT this is where 2 separate load carrying wires come in contact with one another. They are typically feeding separate circuits. When this takes place is instantanious overload & multiple circuits will over ride one another.

I would ask, when the dealer installed a 30 amp breaker did they increase the wire size to the headlight circuit. The reason I ask is a 30 amp circuit typically requires a 10-12 gauge feed wire.

If they indeed did not increase the wire & it was originally fused at 15 amps the feed wire should be 14 gauge and if this is the case you could very soon se evidence of a melted harness. Also if they installed a 30 amp on a 15 amp wire they intentionally attempted to bury your real problem child. Its there, it hasnt gone away.

There is also other determining factors in you present day situation which include clean connections free of corrosion because any loose or bad connection will cause excess resistance often causing meltdown. You could also have a relay which is intermittent causing excess load on you headlight harness.

If you ever want to find a bad circuit install a breaker which is rated larger than circuit is designed to carry.

When you turn your headlight on try to feel the harness between the fuse/breaker & the light. If you can feel heat anywhere in the feed line zero in on that particular area, you will have to open the harness up if that is the case.
I have seen taped wires split open & (green) corroded causing excess resistance in a circuit. If the circuit breaker begins to snap of & on after you are searching you'll know your close.

Key is make sure your wire is of the proper gauge & all connections are tight & clean.

Good Luck
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Last edited by Rollmeaway; 01-13-2013 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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you payed these idiots to fix it ,take it back and show the service manager the bum work they did and make them fix it. this is why i would'nt have anyone work on my stuff be me,it's your life going down the road.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardheaded View Post
you payed these idiots to fix it ,take it back and show the service manager the bum work they did and make them fix it. this is why i would'nt have anyone work on my stuff be me,it's your life going down the road.
I don't think I'd let them touch my bike again.

I'd take the melted and burnt parts back to show the owner why he lost a service customer.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I did go back to the dealer I was told that this repair was last july and there is no way to vertify that the bike left the shop with a 30 amp...that when it was there the mech repositioned the wire harness under the seat and that corrected the problem.....thats a pile of BS.......if anything that hid the problem short term, but replacing the fuse put me in a roll of the dise situation, I now take my cash to a local shop that is ran by a local club......both wires going into the fuse box I have cut now, the power is red with a black line running through it, the other wire is blue and i would say a 16, it is smaller than the red, the blue wire;s insulation has burned off a good 1 1/2 in up the wire away from the connection, running the bike with the lites on its the blue that gets hot and not the red.....I will this weekend start at that point and go back through the harness looking for the prob, the bike is on the life and taking the tanks off would not be a prob, using the symatics in the repair manual, I will go everywhere that blue wire goes in the maual thanx all for the help
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have included 3 pics the one showing the fuse box u can see where the wire was burning through the plastic......I have temporarly added 2 females connectors to the wires as I try and find the prob
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Keye,, are you 100% sure that the dealer did install this 30 amp

Quote:
Originally Posted by keye View Post
I just picked up a 96 Rking, got the bike cheap, the owner said that the motor was rebuilt with no miles on her, if it was him that did the work or a reputed mech, i have no clue....
Just asking
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It's not uncommon for the headlight socket to meltdown. That may have been your problem all along.

Good luck tracing the excess draw. Sometimes electrical problems can be a bitch. I've seen the mechanics for our flatbed trailers wire a problem circuit to direct 12 volt without a breaker, then follow the smoke to the problem. Not recommended for your scooter.

Rollmeaway gave excellent advice. After you replace the burnt and damaged parts check each circuit with an ohm meter to trace any possible excessive current draw.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Also, make sure the terminals where the fuse goes are CLEAN.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:51 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Dealer screwup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hardheaded View Post
sounds like your dealer is a dunce, i would at least go back to these morans and discuss with them. have a lawyer send them a letter.
You might look into taking the dealer to small claims court. Cheap to file, and make your case to the judge. Maybe you can re-coup dealer charges and damage/repairs.

That's pretty sad that they'd do you like that.
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