Check Engine and Red Battery Warning Light

[Bad Disposition]

So here is a good one.

I am running the Cycle Visions Eliminator LED Taillight/License Plate Frame. To add extra light to the rear of the bike, I decided to install two Radiantz LED Premimium 100 LED Z Flex units with a Dual Diode Circuit. (one Circuit per each strip) I tied the hot break light side of the Dual Diode into the brake light wire on of the Eliminator's harness and then, so I can turn the lower level running light on and off, I connected that wire directly to the accessory switch.

Both operations work just fine, break lights lite up when breaks are applied, and if left on (via the accessory switch) Running lites work appropriatly by turning them on and off at will.

The issue:

After crusing with the accessory lights on for aproximatley six hours, my Check Engine light and Red Battery warning light came on. Furthermore the Voltage gage dropped from 14 to 12 Volts. The Voltage regulator and Stator are brand new, battery has a full charge.

Questions:

1. Will using a LED connected to the accessory switch run down the battery even with the engine running? I believe i read someplace that said "Running lights using the accessory switch for long periods at low speeds will cause the warning light to come on"

It seems to me the charging system would keep the battery charged even though lights attached to the accessory switch are being used. No?

2. Would I stand less of a chance of experiencing warning lights if I connected the running light side of the diode dirctly into the Eliminator's harness and then connect the Eliminator into an equalizer such as the badlander III?

3. Will running additional LEDs confuse the computer on an 08 Ultra Classic, causing the warning lites to come on?

BD

[Bad Disposition]

Turns out my brand new Accell Stator that was just installed burned up. It lasted all, of about 10 hours of riding. WOW, that was costly!

[Bad Disposition]

Man, I just don't get it. Yesterday I installed a brand new stock Harley Votlage Regulator and Stator. While still on the stand I fired it up, The voltage guage read 14 I let it idle for about 10 minutes the guage stayed put. After starting it this morning, the gauge went to 10, the red Charge and check engine light came on for a moment.

The headlight and spots are staying consisent without dimming. How strong of a possiblity is it that the guage is bad.

I know I'm not that bad of a wrench, there is only one way a stator and regulator can be installed. What else can it be? This totaly has blown my mind.

[Danglide]

have you put a meter on it and checked to verify that the voltage is indeed dropping? that would be my next step.

[Bad Disposition]

That is my next step.

I'm not at the bike now, (later on today)/. just fielding the problem to see if anyone else might have an idea as to what to check. I'm gonna be pissed if the new stator and VR are already toast for some unknown reason.

It makes no sense, everything was fine while on the stand and then the next morning when the wheels hit the road it went to shiat again.

[webco2]

Pray to the Beer gods that your luck improves.

[Locodave]

Something I ran into years ago on a Suzuki. Both the stator and reg fryed. Did the reg take out the stator on an over currant. Frying the windings. Or did the windings fry and took out the reg.

As you installed both. Only difference you changed was the add on lighting. If they were shorted out. It would of created a large amp draw. Making the voltage reg go full tilt. Then the windings, getting full tilt. Melted the coatings seperating the windings to touch. Use a Volt-Ohm meter set at ohm to test the windings if shorted. JMHO