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Old 10-22-2009, 12:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Throttle Twist Position vs Throttle Open Position

I have read it on here somewhere, but can't find the actual thread that explained what the settings should be. On new build, 107" Stage 4 Ultra, I have to twist the grip seems like 20% before I actually start getting some rpm's. I looked at the throttle blade sttings in my TTS and like I have read it only matches the twist position at 20%. I want to make my throttle response much more quicker. Some peeps say they have raised those lower position settings , but no one ever says what they have set them to. Should I raise it till they match...ie: 5% = 5, 7.5% =7.5 etc??? Compared to my cabled 06SGC it is very mushy on the bottom of the twist, hardley any increase in rpm's untill a lot of twist is applied to throttle.
What is everybody doing and setting here??
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DocDyna ( aka... ( 2008 Ultra now with 175 miles om build)
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06 Dyna SuperGlide Custom 98 ci
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R & R Roller Rockers
Barnett H/D clutch spring
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TTS Mastertune

2008 Ultra Classic
HOK Colbalt/Oriental Kameleon Blues / Prism Effect
107" Woods TW-7H cams
R & R Stage 4 Heads with Vortex
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Weisco's at 10.2
Barnett HD Clutch and Spring
Smith Brothers Chrome Moly Adj Rods
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Old 10-22-2009, 03:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There are a lot of things going on in the background of the calibration and I recommend using caution when making changes to the Throttle Blade Control. This will also affect the tune and also the reason TTS has them set this way in the base calibrations. If you are going to adjust this I recommend doing it on a dyno with AFR/data recorder or at the least do some some V-tune logs.
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Before you ever adjust the Throttle the bike should be fully tuned in. If you have done no tuning then do it first and you may find the issue you do not like is already gone. A couple of Vtune runs done following teh instructions should get you pretty close.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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...Its the "duels". There is a dyno comparision {somewhere?} that flat shows the "rob your wrist" effect {loss of torque}, compared to a 2-1 {or a stock header}.
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Old 10-22-2009, 08:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Guys

I have been used to riding the SG Custom that is close to 100 hp and around 300 pounds lighter so I was expecting a sluggish feel comparitively. I have done 3- 35mile Vtunes, but not happy with the front cylinder data. The rear cyl is almost all white cells (90%) but the front cylinder just keeps moving the red cells around, 1st tune verses the next 2 has about the same number of red cells but each of the 3 has them at different locations. My first build on SG Custom fell right into place and each tune got more and more white cells untill almost all where white. But this new build, is not doing that on the front cylinder, back is improving every tune. Any ideas on front cyl. problem?? Probably causing some of the sluggish feeling.
Thanks
__________________
06 Dyna SuperGlide Custom 98 ci
Woods TW-7H
R & R Stage 4 Heads
R & R Roller Rockers
Barnett H/D clutch spring
V & H Big Radius 2 into 1
TTS Mastertune

2008 Ultra Classic
HOK Colbalt/Oriental Kameleon Blues / Prism Effect
107" Woods TW-7H cams
R & R Stage 4 Heads with Vortex
R & R Roller Rockers
Weisco's at 10.2
Barnett HD Clutch and Spring
Smith Brothers Chrome Moly Adj Rods
TrueDuals with Wild Pig muffs
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Old 10-23-2009, 12:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I would check for a leak to the front cylinder. Could be intake or exhaust but it sounds like something is changing so the software is following it. Also check the front O2 sensor as it could be going out. Get a buddy to help you and fire the bike and let idle. Give him a couple of handfuls of shop towels and have him try to plug the exhaust while it's idling. This will raise the pressure in the pipes and make leaks easy to find.
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