pc111 map request : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

thinkpt1 · 09-10-2009, 10:07 PM

Need a map for pc111---103 TC, with head work, 9.8-1 comp
TW55 andrews cams, roller rockers, and just put a fatcat 2-1

bike is hot and pipe is hot....................was running a supermeg 2-1 with no problems really like the fatcat but that pipe gets serious hot!! can feel right through kevlar jeans

also have a low end stumble........

my bud wants me to put a tmax but not sold on that unit, he swears by it on his scoot......

thanks

DynojetResearch · 09-11-2009, 11:26 AM

I need a little more info

What year and model of bike do you have?

Which map were you using prior to swaping the pipe?

Can you post that map so I can take a look at it?

thinkpt1 · 09-11-2009, 12:46 PM

Bike is a 2007 FLHX ---Fatcat has the quiet baffle, comp is 9.8-1, heads are Jonny Sachs cams andrews TW55 , roller rockers, etc. 25,000 miles on motor with the PC....

Previous exhaust was supertrapp 2-1 with open end cap 13 discs before that was Bub 2-1 both ran very well.

Ive never had the 2nd to 3rd gear stumple before when I twist the wick, I like this exhaust but way to hot.................engine as well is to hot so I fiquere need a different map.

THANKS...for your help. I will try and post the map.

DynojetResearch · 09-11-2009, 01:02 PM

Why are you running the "quiet baffle"? I see more problems with plugging up an otherwise good exhaust with a quiet baffle. Try running the high flow baffle and see what happens before we waste a lot of time trying to fix a overly restrictive one.

It just does not make any sense to do all the head work and cams only to not have an equally high flowing exhaust.

thinkpt1 · 09-11-2009, 02:48 PM

Huh? Trust me bike is not quiet!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Supertrapp pipe was very quiet and have a buddy running same exhaust with a 117 and another with a high comp 107 both fatcats with quiet baffle.

DynojetResearch · 09-11-2009, 03:22 PM

I did not say the bike was quiet. I personally do not like the "quiet baffles". You said yourself that the previous pipes ran well and were either open ended or non quiet baffles.

Now, with this pipe you have both a stumble and heat issues. The extra heat could be due to increased restriction or simply pipe wall thickness. The stumble more than likely is due to the different flow rate of the exhaust.

You were asking for my opinion and I am giving it to you. If you prefer to leave the baffle you have in we can try some things. Being that we are trying to tune your bike over the internet it helps for me to have as much information as possible. Know that the heat went down and the stumble went away with the non quiet baffle would be very useful to know.

If you are already thinking about buying another tuning device why would you not just spend less and have the bike properly tuned at a dyno facility?

Either way I am willing to help, but I just need something to base changes on.

thinkpt1 · 09-11-2009, 03:36 PM

I appreciate your help, I am looking to keep my PC111 just trying to get a map if I can. Thanks for your opinon the quiet baffle hopefully a new map will help, were you able to read the map I attached?

DynojetResearch · 09-11-2009, 03:51 PM

I looked at the map. What exactly do you consider "low end" as far as the sumble goes? What RPM and throttle openings are you at when it happens?

As far as the heat, are you basing it purely from the heat on your legs, or oil temp, etc. Is it during cruise or only after wide open throttle accelleation?

I can't just look at a map and say "gee, stumble and hot", "ok, type type type, fixed". I need some details to make an educated guess.

thinkpt1 · 09-11-2009, 04:00 PM

Gee let me think do I want help from someone talking to me like Im an idiot? I like posting on this forum so with that being said..........I'm all set.

DynojetResearch · 09-11-2009, 04:14 PM

I wasn't talking to you like an idiot. Take it how you want, but to think I can alter a map without any information or you being willing to try something (removing baffle) so that I have something constructive to go by is a little unrealistic.

You first post pretty much said "my bike now stumbles with a new pipe and my leg feels hotter than before". I am not sure why you think that is enough for me to make a change to a map for you.

I was simply asking for some details about exactly what was happening and where (RPM/TP) so that I could give you something to try. If you took my dry sense of humor personally I appologize, but nevertheless, I need more to go by to help.

If you said something like, "with the new pipe my bike stumbles at small throttle (roughly 2-10%) between about 1500 and 2500 rpm" that is something I could do something about. As for the heat, something like "I normally cruise at 3,000 rpm and light throttle and the heat is more intense there than before" is what I was looking for.

If you change your mind and want to give me the details I was looking for I am still willing to help if I can.

thinkpt1 · 09-15-2009, 07:06 PM

I relize its tough to help over the internet most of all if you donot have the right info.

The biggest issue is the heat period, doe not matter how I run the engine its hotter than hell.

Idle is very rough, and the stumble is from 2nd gear twisting the throttle to 3rd gear........

I have found a dyno tuner in my area who is supposed to be very good with PC maybe thats the way I should go.

I recived another map from Fuelmoto after I told him my problem he sent me the same map I already have.

DynojetResearch · 09-16-2009, 12:00 PM

The dyno tune route would be the best way to go, otherwise we are going to do a lot of "back and forth" mapping trial and error. I am willing to do that, but it is going to take some time.

I read back through your posts. It sounds like the bike was running very well, for a heck of lot of miles before you swapped to this set of pipes. If I read what you wrote correctly, it seems that neither of the other two sets of exhaust cause the heat issue. If that is the case then it is either routing or restriction causing the heat problem and likely causing the stumble. If the other two worked so well is it worth the hassle (and money) to try to make this setup work?

If it is, we can try a few things, but you will have to have some patients. There is only so much I can do from my desk and it will be educated guesses at best. I haven't looked at that set of pipes to see how easy it is to remove the baffle, but it you were willing to remove it for just a quick test to see what it does to the way the bike runs that would give me a lot of useful info to go on. If it is not possible let me know and I can post something for you to try.