Map for 98 E-Glide w/ supertrapp 2:1 : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

bigseth · 08-31-2009, 11:29 AM

I have a 98 electra glide with a Supertrapp 2:1 pipe, 20 disk, closed end cap, and a k&N air filter. For the life of me i can't get the thing to run right with whatever map came loaded in the pcIII. Can anyone suggest what map I might start with or have one that will work for me? I see a perfect PCII map but is there a way to convert it for use with a PCIII? It is really hard to find anything for these old F/I evos. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Seth

bigseth · 08-31-2009, 08:48 PM

Update - I took a map for a 99 twin cam - M802-318 -with stock ecm, supertrapp 2:1, 21 disk, closed end cap, SE filter , and copied and pasted the entire table into my old map file and loaded it into the bike. The bike runs 100% better, just seems to be a tad bit lean, no problems whatsoever, no more hesitation, loading up on idle or anything, very very slight spitting back from dead stop to WOT. I will ride it tomorrow some more and report back for in case anyone needs this info in the future.

Seth

DynojetResearch · 09-01-2009, 11:07 AM

Good news. Now that you have a base to start from we can make small adjustments later if necessary.

bigseth · 09-01-2009, 09:00 PM

Thanks, I seem to have it running pretty good, I richened it up about 5% across the board this afternoon ( a little more where it seemed to need it) and it runs better , but when I am get on it (WOT), let off, shift, and then get back on the throttle, there is a little pinging. It only does it when I let the throttle almost close when shifting, it was also decel popping a little. I noticed that the cells for 0% tps were at -15 so I put them at 0, and it seemed to help but I won't know for sure until I ride it again tomorrow.

One question, I am planning on installing a camshaft (V Thunder 3020) here in the next month, and was wondering what I would need to do to the map as far as making it drivable with the new cam. Will it be ok to start it with the map, or should I just richen up the map a certain percentage (15-20%?), or will I be no where close and have to start over again?

Thanks
Seth

DynojetResearch · 09-02-2009, 11:12 AM

Before you install the cam I would suggest finding a good tuning shop and talking to them about custom mapping. That cam is substantially different than stock and is going to need to be properly tuned in order to make the most of it.

As far as your current setup goes, add 15's to the 0% column from 2000 RPM and higher. That may help the popping.
You may also want to retard the timing 3-4 degrees in the 60-100% columns at 1,500 RPM to 2,500 RPM

bigseth · 09-03-2009, 08:42 AM

When I changed the 0% cells from -15's to 0's the popping is almost gone, I will try adding a positive value in those cells and see if that will help. Also, I will try retarding the timing like you said, I was thinking about that but I was unsure if the power commander would adjust the timing w/o an PC ignition module. I will give it a try.
One more question. If I change to an open endcap and take out about 8 disk, will my tune still be close, or will that open end cap change it a lot?

Thanks
Seth

DynojetResearch · 09-03-2009, 11:05 AM

If you are still going to install the cam you should do the pipe changes at the same time and have it dyno'd.

What is your goal by switching around the caps/plates on the pipe? Are you just trying to make the bike louder? Why remove plates after you install the open end cap?

bigseth · 09-03-2009, 04:19 PM

Supertrapp says that an open end cap was equal to 8-10 plates, so i figured if I can get it a little louder and have the same performance that would be cool. But what you say is true, I should just do the cam, end cap and all at one time then take it to the dyno, so i think i will just go that route to save from having any trouble.

Thanks
Seth

2000FiveOh · 09-03-2009, 10:42 PM

You will feel a loss in the lower RPM,s with the open cap, and it won't be much louder. Actually sounds like crap. These things seem to run best with 20 or 21 and a closed end cap. I have an open end cap you can have if you pay the shipping.

bigseth · 09-03-2009, 11:01 PM

I love the bottom end the pipe gives me the way it is, but was thinking about the open end cap when I do my cam. I'll send you a pm about it.

Thanks,
Seth

2000FiveOh · 09-04-2009, 11:10 PM

These ST's are hard to tune and very few people know how to set them up. I'm not very impressed with the exhaust and just deal with it. Maybe things will get better seeing as the Moco seems to have adopted them, but who knows at this point. They just seem to complicate the tuning process.

The only positive I see is that the 2 into 1 keeps the heat way below you and your passenger doesn't have the heat issue of the left crossover pipe shooting heat into their thigh. Perhaps that's why the Moco adopted them. Just another way to deal with the heat issues.

I will check for your PM.

bigseth · 09-05-2009, 02:19 PM

Yeah, now I am having problems when its cold out. This morning I went for a ride and it was spitting and popping out the exhaust, around 1500-3000 rpms, unless I just barley gave it any throttle. Once the bike was ridden for about 45 minutes it seemed to do better but it still would spit back at about 2500-2800 rpms every now and again. I guess I should take some fuel out in the 2000-3000 rpm ranges at about 40-60% throttle and see if that helps.

Seth