Zippers Thundermax Auto Tune

[Coolmaker]

Sometimes the slip-on's will not seal to the pipe and cause cold air to come in and make it pop. Take them off, put Hi Temp RTV inside the slip on's and put them on again. Had to do it to a friends to stop his. Just Saying...

[Paniolo]

Originally Posted by Paniolo

I rode across Hell, (Needles and Kingman @ 118 degeres), and finally made it to Flagstaff, AZ. When I stopped, the bike was idling poorly. I stopped for gas, and it would not start. I checked and it was getting spark to the plugs, so that meant fuel issues. I reinitialized and that did nothing. I let the bike cool down and that did not help. I was preparing to reload the map, and decided to pull the ECM fuses. That did the trick and the bike fired up and runs much better.

What do you think happened?

Bump to the top.

Any Zippers Gurus have any idea? Could heat or altitude have been the issue? I thought this was only an M&M issue, not a Zippers one.

Mark

[duke76]

Originally Posted by ezriderbeef

I have an 08 ultra and was wondering if anyone had any idea when the T-MAX W/AUTO tune will be available????

I was at the Hd dealer at Rapid City for the rally and stopped by the Zippers booth and asked the guy this same question, he told me that they are hoping they will have it by the first of the year, I know they have told us this before but that is what they told me, They also told me that are going to release new software in 10 days that is closer to the advanced software as you are able to
see the learned fuel points, you cant change them but you can see them, I guess all the whining on this forum is paying off they are listening, they are also telling me that they are getting more lenient with handing out the advanced software.Todd

[twilliams]

Did the initialization procedure change? I just looked through the manual with the latest version of smartlink and the start and idle to 289deg step seems to be missing. they only mention the on-off three times cycle in the init procedure.

[TMaxJunky]

Originally Posted by Paniolo

Bump to the top.

Any Zippers Gurus have any idea? Could heat or altitude have been the issue? I thought this was only an M&M issue, not a Zippers one.

Mark

No definitely NOT common on the TMax. No altitude/heat issues.

Idling poorly on shut down, re-init doesn't fix, but PULLING main fuse does.... indicates some irregularity in the IAC circuit.

Was it running bad or just the idle????

When you say won't start, did it TRY or NO FIRE at all?

[Paniolo]

Touring Colorado from LA and need some help with a Zippers issue.

Every time I come to a stop the idle drops and the bike stalls out. Then it starts up and runs okay. But whenever I pull in the clutch and close off the throttle, the rpms drop like a brick and the engine dies. Yesterday I was riding the mountain roads, and just pulled in the clutch. The rpms dropped and the bike died. I could not get it to start while rolling, so I had to roll off to the side of the road and restart it. So now to keep it from dying, I have to constantly blip the throttle when shifting, and blip it all the way down and milk it back to idle. Yesterday I loaded another map and that did not help. I raised the idle up to 1008. Thinking the altitude (Colorado vs sea level Los Angeles) was an issue, I enrichend the afrs at just above idle and below to 13.021. Today I will try clearing the IAC offsets, reloading the original map, and running the IAC warm up to 280 degrees.

What do I need to check and or adjust? I am in Telluride Colorado.
I don't know if this makes a difference but the weather is cooler and the altitude is greater.

When the bike is moving, it runs fine, it's just these "little things" that are driving me nuts.

Mark

[Notafatboy]

You might have a dirty set of injectors, but since it runs fine outside of idle, I'm not sure. I have an AutoTune with no issues.
you might just want to give the Boys at zippers a quick call...those guys are usually quick to find issues...keep US posted...

[the_tunaman]

What is the idle RPM set for in the Basic settings? And what do the settings look like on the Idle Speed vs. Engine Temperature (IAC Curves map) page?

To me it sounds like the throttle zero position isn't correct, or the low range map values are not right. You should probably try to post your map file so those more knowledgable can take a gander, or call Zippers as suggested, or both? That's pretty scary if it is dying while you're riding.

Good luck!
Roger

[Paniolo]

Well here is the latest.

I tried loading another map, and that did nothing. I took the original map, and enrichened the afrs at from 768 to 1280 rpms to from 13.542 t0 13.021. I also raised the idle from 996 to 1088 rpms. Then I cleared the IAC offsets, reloaded the modified original map. I reinitialized and started the bike. It ran rough for a bit, then "learned" it's way a bit more. It seems to be running fine, except that the idle still drops below the set rpms, then comes back up. So I just changed the IAC stop setting from 8 to 13, hoping that will stop the idle from dropping below the set parameter of 1088.

I am still not sure of what happened. Maybe it was the heat, maybe it was cheap gas, I don't know. All I do know is that somehow the map inside the ECM got whacked and I had clear everything and reload it.

Any other ideas or suggestions?

Thanks

Mark

[mori55]

Could it be some kind of vacum leak??

[Paniolo]

Originally Posted by mori55

Could it be some kind of vacum leak??

I'm thinking the ECM got scrambled by:

Exposure to excesive heat
Poor gas ( I ran a couple of tanks of 87 and one 86 octane)
RF Bleed over from the CB Radio.

I mention that because on two occasions the ECM "wigged out" when I keyed the CB mic to speak. Both times I had to pull the ECM fuse to reset it.

But those are guesses. I really don't know.

[Marty59]

Originally Posted by Paniolo

Well here is the latest.

... Then I cleared the IAC offsets, reloaded the modified original map. I reinitialized and started the bike. .....

Any other ideas or suggestions?



Mark

Mark,

Can you post a screen shot of your IAC offsets? I had the excact same problem and it was all in the IAC offsets not being set correctly.

Marty

[kevmac]

pan, I had a prob with rf bleed from magnum wires awhile back but i could always clear it and start over. but when my idle started droppoing I manuely turned the throttle plate open a bit more then reintialized. and bingo!

[ohsevenflhx]

3000 miles on my supertrapps, thundermax, ness big sucker. 96 in. stock engine. Runs great, very happy. no problems. No extra heat, good power, good sound. Would recommend to all. Ohsevenflhx

[itsafatboy]

2 103 " bikes both have the ss singe throttle body and 5.15 injectors, both have issue that at cruise the bikes sputter, was thinking it was rich, but looked at the learning and it is taking some fuel away but not allot should i look at something else. it just seems strange that both have same issue. did the injector compensation, maps are a good match except for the injectors. just not sure its a rich condition issue