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Old 11-26-2006, 07:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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mori, sounds like you are happy with your decision.
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Old 11-26-2006, 08:41 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Morri,

Glad it is working out for you.

I have about 500 miles on mine and it still seems to be getting better.

I have a Dyna Super Glide, so not sure anything I have for pictures would help. The front I put up under the tank along the wiring that was already in place. I ended up with the connector at the junction of the down tubes and the back bone and got it all tucked up and wire tied up in there out of sight. I did remove the rear tank bolt and raised the tank to fish the wires in and then replace the bolt for the rear mount ant then did the same for the front. I used a 1 inch wooden dowel to hold the tank up while I fished the wires through. I found the wires just tucked in with the others and had to use very few wire ties.

I think I ran the wires about 10 times before I figured out where I wanted them to end at. I have slack for both the front & back on my set up which I am thankful for. If you want pictures of any of it, let me know and PM me with an e-mail address and I will get them taken and sent to you. Might take a week to get them to you (The old job thing interfering with important things).

Last edited by hjdistl : 11-26-2006 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 11-26-2006, 08:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hjdistl
Morri,

Glad it is working out for you.

I have about 500 miles on mine and it still seems to be getting better.
I'm really impressed at how much smoother my bike runs. I thought it was fine before i did this but it's a whole lot better now. Also seems to have more power than before.
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Old 11-26-2006, 11:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Very interesting. I want to read what the future comments on this topic. With this reply I will.

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Old 11-26-2006, 11:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hey guys, been lurking here and wondering where you all got the unit?Zippers direct? Also how much is it? Any one with the unit installed plan on dynoing. Maybe even doing a 3 run test to see how the afr actually is. Just learning and wondering. Thanks.
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Old 11-26-2006, 11:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I got mine direct from Zippers, MSRP for AutoTune 399, Tmax 429. The unit has a monitor logging function when hooked up to a laptop. I ran it for an hour, records all the engine vitals, including head temp, rpm front and rear cylinder AFR, throttle position, etc. It includes a timer that starts when you fire up so you can go on the road and do timed runs and review the AFR for each RPM/Gear or whatever. For example, with the laptop in your bag or tour pak you could run at 60 mph XXX RPM for five minutes then go 70 for 5 minutes, then try a full throttle pull and stop and review all the readings on the laptop, adjust the AFR at a certain RPM and try it again.

I assume that the O2 sensors are just as accurate as the ones on the Dyno, but I am going to do a dyno test run just for curiosity sake, soon as the snow goes away. In my case the front and rear AFR readings were very similar almost all the time.

You can set the unit to run a straight 13.1 AFR or 13.5 or 14.2 or whatever, or you can adjust it for different RPM ranges, for max power at full throttle to leaner at mid throttle/crusing ranges.
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:38 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I am not planning on doing any dyno work.
#1 I do not drive the same way a bike is dynoed, so it has no meaning to me.
#2 I am happy with the way it runs.
#3 I trust my butt dyno more that a piece of paper
#4 Why spend the money? See #1
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Sounds like the Thundermax auto tune may give the DTT a run for the money. Sure sounds a lot easier to install.
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:58 PM   #24 (permalink)
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How would one add a second O2 sensor in the Rinehart true dual headers. It has one on the front cylinder, but not on the rear. Also, does it matter where in the rear header the sensor is installed (i.e., distance from exhaust port).

Thanks.

This whole thing is very interesting.
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Old 11-27-2006, 01:37 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball
How would one add a second O2 sensor in the Rinehart true dual headers. It has one on the front cylinder, but not on the rear. Also, does it matter where in the rear header the sensor is installed (i.e., distance from exhaust port).

Thanks.

This whole thing is very interesting.
The best place would probably be where they '07's are located which I believe is about 3 to 4 inches from the exhaust port. Hides it pretty good there also.
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Old 11-27-2006, 04:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball
How would one add a second O2 sensor in the Rinehart true dual headers. It has one on the front cylinder, but not on the rear. Also, does it matter where in the rear header the sensor is installed (i.e., distance from exhaust port).

Thanks.

This whole thing is very interesting.
Call Zippers & talk to Pete. He can tell you the best place for the O2 sensor. Zippers will also sell you the 2nd O2 bung for the installation. Usually all that is required is drilling the hole and welding the bung in place.
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Old 11-27-2006, 06:28 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatoldbike
The best place would probably be where they '07's are located which I believe is about 3 to 4 inches from the exhaust port. Hides it pretty good there also.
I have the Rinehart 2-1 exhaust and i had the 02 bungs installed at around 4-6 inches from the heads. Zippers says 3-6 inches from the head. I just put it were it didn't hit anything and marked it, drilled it, and hat it tigged in. after the o2 sensors it's a matter of running the wiring harness. Everything plugs in NO splicing.
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Last edited by mori55 : 11-27-2006 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 11-27-2006, 08:19 PM   #28 (permalink)
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its hard to educate a fool!
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Old 11-27-2006, 08:45 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydbal
mori, sounds like you are happy with your decision.
Cladbal,

I know I am happy with mine. For me this thing is a God-Send. I'd been fighting with the M&M FI since way back when. I thought I had it solved when I got the M&M SERT and got it dialed in. But during my trip to Yellowstone last summer the bike started acting funny at altitude.

I started working with Thunder-Max, and one of their M&M conversion kits. However I soon discovered that it only converted my bike over to a "Delphi-Like" system. But with this wiring harness: http://vtwinfuelinjection.com/index.htm, I was able to convert my bike over to REAL DELPHI! So I installed the harness, kept the Thunder-Max Throttle Body, swapped the ECM for a Thunder-Max Delphi unit, and got their Closed Loop System.

I gotta tell you, that after years of eating crow and buying all kinds of stuff I was real leery about it. I was so leery that my initial install was all rough routing and zip ties in case I wanted to strip it off and go back to the OEM M&M and SERT. But the bike fired right up and is been running better than ever. It idles so smooth that I could tell it in the handlebars. Yesterday I took the bike from sea-level where I live, up to 7,000 feet. The bike ran perfectly. You can set the parameters, let it tune itself and ride on. You can ride with your lap top hooked up, and review the data later in case you want to make further adjustments.

I can't say enough good things about it.
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Old 11-27-2006, 09:26 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Has anyone installed the auto system on a 2007 road king with the new security system? I heard Zippers was having a problem getting the auto tune to work with the new 07 security system.
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